Question about Rotors
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Originally Posted by 2NR Werks,Oct 27 2006, 12:00 AM
4bang6 is correct you have directional and non-directional rotors. Most rotors you buy off the shelf can be used either way. When purchasing a big brake kit you need to watch the inner vanes, because usually their are directional.
How do you tell the difference after the install. In a short period of time you will begin to feel a pulsating feeling in the pedal when braking. You are now warping the rotors because they are not cooling properly. Get them resurfaced and put them on right.
How do you tell the difference after the install. In a short period of time you will begin to feel a pulsating feeling in the pedal when braking. You are now warping the rotors because they are not cooling properly. Get them resurfaced and put them on right.
Good luck getting anyone to turn slotted rotors. The tip of the cutter will hit the slots and break off. I don't know od anyone who will turn them.
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From: Ocala
they can be turned on the brake lathe ... but the cutter has to be set very shallow to avoid chipping. This may require several runs but it can be done. I had a friend turn mine for me for years and never had a chipping problem. I'm just not sure what it would cost at a brake shop (or if they would even try it). My bill for that usually listed alcohol and food at a local Hooters! 
the other option is a machine shop ... but i shudder to think how much that would cost.
side note - it is not a myth: using the correct torque settings on the wheel lugs will reduce (if not eliminate) warping of brake rotors. When the wheel&tire shops use the impact gun (and even with 'torque sticks') this affects several components at the hub ... especially the rotors. I've insisted on it for all my vehicles (particularly the ones with a 'floating' rotor) and have very few instances of warping.
hth
the other option is a machine shop ... but i shudder to think how much that would cost.
side note - it is not a myth: using the correct torque settings on the wheel lugs will reduce (if not eliminate) warping of brake rotors. When the wheel&tire shops use the impact gun (and even with 'torque sticks') this affects several components at the hub ... especially the rotors. I've insisted on it for all my vehicles (particularly the ones with a 'floating' rotor) and have very few instances of warping.
hth
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Originally Posted by Bandiscoot,Oct 27 2006, 06:15 AM
they can be turned on the brake lathe ... but the cutter has to be set very shallow to avoid chipping. This may require several runs but it can be done. I had a friend turn mine for me for years and never had a chipping problem. I'm just not sure what it would cost at a brake shop (or if they would even try it). My bill for that usually listed alcohol and food at a local Hooters!
the other option is a machine shop ... but i shudder to think how much that would cost.
side note - it is not a myth: using the correct torque settings on the wheel lugs will reduce (if not eliminate) warping of brake rotors. When the wheel&tire shops use the impact gun (and even with 'torque sticks') this affects several components at the hub ... especially the rotors. I've insisted on it for all my vehicles (particularly the ones with a 'floating' rotor) and have very few instances of warping.
hth
the other option is a machine shop ... but i shudder to think how much that would cost.
side note - it is not a myth: using the correct torque settings on the wheel lugs will reduce (if not eliminate) warping of brake rotors. When the wheel&tire shops use the impact gun (and even with 'torque sticks') this affects several components at the hub ... especially the rotors. I've insisted on it for all my vehicles (particularly the ones with a 'floating' rotor) and have very few instances of warping.
hth
The problem with warping mainly isn't them warping from torquing it is heat and cold issue. When the rotors get very hot and then suddenly get cooled in a certain area that area can spontaniously change from a structure called Austenite to Martensite. Martensite is a denser molecular structure and pulls the metal's crystiline structure. That is generally what causes brake rotors warping.
Some rotors are more susceptable than others, Intrepids and Ford trucks are notoursiously bad.
This is why the controlled cooling and heating of cryogenic processing helps prevent warping. There is less if no retained Austenite in the steel's structure to change. Plus 200%-300% increase in wear resistance!
Couldn't resist the cryogenic plug!
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Originally Posted by 4bang6,Oct 27 2006, 08:48 AM
what about my plug?
Nothing like a shameless plug for crossdrilled/slotted/silver zinc plated/cryogenically processed rotors.
Now back to the thread. I like them installed with the slots turning in the direction the car is going. Unless you are in reverse.
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From: Wesley Chapel, FL.
Originally Posted by jcarlton,Oct 27 2006, 10:33 AM
I like it.
Nothing like a shameless plug for crossdrilled/slotted/silver zinc plated/cryogenically processed rotors.
Now back to the thread. I like them installed with the slots turning in the direction the car is going. Unless you are in reverse.
Nothing like a shameless plug for crossdrilled/slotted/silver zinc plated/cryogenically processed rotors.
Now back to the thread. I like them installed with the slots turning in the direction the car is going. Unless you are in reverse.
Actually I am allowed to plug.
If you need any of these awesome rotors let me know
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...T&f=5&t=429393
James
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Originally Posted by vvs,Oct 27 2006, 01:47 PM
Since we are plugging..
Actually I am allowed to plug.
If you need any of these awesome rotors let me know
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...T&f=5&t=429393
James
Actually I am allowed to plug.
If you need any of these awesome rotors let me know
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...T&f=5&t=429393
James
Cheap to the public!
