If the car just cut out on you while you were driving normally, that would suggest to me that a electronic connection went bad... it wouldn't be the battery. The battery's main job is to start the car... it's the alternator's job to keep the electricity running after that. It could be a blown fuse to the ECU, bad ground, bad connection (ECU or alternator) or the alternator itself. Regardless... good luck!

Keith

 

just got word from the dealership. when the car got to their the battery was dead. they replaced/charged the battery and got the engine to turn over. at that point in time there was a piston that had no compression and was misfiring. he told me that the valves collided with the pistons and therefore caused my car to stop working. they are going to get a computer reader tomorrow to determine what rpm this all happened. the most common cause is the engine over revving. like i said before...i noticed the car not working at 45 mph and i know i was in 3rd and might have hit 6 or 7 grand...but that is no where near redline. we shall see tomorrow when they run the computer.

 

been ther dun that, have a short block and blank head in my garage. New engine werks GRRReat!!! Sorry to hear. Titanium keepers and locks with stainless valves shure look pretty out of the box but I'll never see them again and hopefully never snap them, I can show u a box full.

 

you have been there and done that??? what did you do to correct the issue?? warranty worthy? how about cost if its not covered?

 

Running the computer is a bunch of BS. If they don't find a code that says you over reved the engine they will just state that you cleared it with a device from Autozone before you took it in. If you have to replace anything in the block it's going to be somewhere in the $7200 range installed by a dealership because they are going to hit you up for a shortblock from Honda. Hopefully it will just need some headwork, which will cost a lot less from what I hear, somewhere in the $2000 range for parts and labor.

 

I believe the only way you can over rev the S2000 is if you miss shift and accidently shift down instead of up. You would know if you did this. Rev limiter prevents over reving.

No telling what kind of abuse the car took from the prior owner...


I bought a used 2002 S2000 and put about 15,000 miles on it before it had a $2,500 clutch issue. I drove the car from service to new cars traded it an bought a brand new car. They didn't test drive it . I am convinced the prior owner abused the car...I did nothing to cause the damage.

 

so from what i am gathering....this might be a huge load of shi*t they are going to feed me tomorrow when they run the test??? and they are going to try to make it not fit in the warranty so they dont have to pay for anything... and of course who are they going to believe...a 23 yr old kid driving the car or the computer on the car??? i just hope everything pans out. 1) the camry sucks (good gas mileage though) 2. i want my s back.

i will keep everyone posted. thanks for the support and suggestions. anything that i can use to defend me and the car i am all ears.

 

I think you'll hear a load of bs if it's a costly repair.

Oh yeah...I bought the extended warranty on the 2002 and of course the damage wasn't covered. I no longer waste my money on warranties. I figure I can use the $1000 plus to help cover any major repair. It seems like everytime I go after warranty it's always "my fault".

Had the rear defroster go out on a civic. They said it was because of a rear parking sticker I had in the window. I won that battle.....

 

***update***

they ran the computer diagnostic and there was no record of the amount of rpm's that the piston hit the head and valves. fidelity is now sending an independent inspector out tomorrow to asses the damage with the repair team at the dealership.

 

The retainers do crack and can cause the valve to drop. Check this thread: Broken Retainers

Lots of good information from Billman250.
...AP2 retainers and keepers...