Stock head unit removal
And just fyi, just to throw some hints your way to avoid problems from someone who's done this a lot:
They recommend you use quick connectors, I find this is a bad idea. All factory head units connect via large connectors. The aftermarket wiring harness will plug directly into this connector and have untipped wire ends to connect to your radio's wiring harness. Use solder and electrical tape to make these connections. Take the two new harnesses inside and twist each connector together, then use a soldering iron to heat the twist and apply solder. quick release connectors are unnecessary and can cause loose/bad connections later on down the road. Direct soldering creates a better connection under normal circumstances and will not come loose if done right. The new wiring harness you make will still disconnect straight from the car or new head unit without issue.
Be VERY careful with trim, if you snap any links at all when removing the old trim, replace it, otherwise you're going to encourage rattles and squeaks in the dash.
I drive an '01, and I recommend putting A-pilar tweeters, this avoids the sound dampening you get when you move your leg in front of the speaker. If you alreday have the later models with the tweeters in the doors, good for you.
Replacing the stock speakers is a good idea.
Make sure your head unit works with the dash controls, I have some recommendations in the $400-$500 range if you like.
They recommend you use quick connectors, I find this is a bad idea. All factory head units connect via large connectors. The aftermarket wiring harness will plug directly into this connector and have untipped wire ends to connect to your radio's wiring harness. Use solder and electrical tape to make these connections. Take the two new harnesses inside and twist each connector together, then use a soldering iron to heat the twist and apply solder. quick release connectors are unnecessary and can cause loose/bad connections later on down the road. Direct soldering creates a better connection under normal circumstances and will not come loose if done right. The new wiring harness you make will still disconnect straight from the car or new head unit without issue.
Be VERY careful with trim, if you snap any links at all when removing the old trim, replace it, otherwise you're going to encourage rattles and squeaks in the dash.
I drive an '01, and I recommend putting A-pilar tweeters, this avoids the sound dampening you get when you move your leg in front of the speaker. If you alreday have the later models with the tweeters in the doors, good for you.
Replacing the stock speakers is a good idea.
Make sure your head unit works with the dash controls, I have some recommendations in the $400-$500 range if you like.
Make sure you get the tweets with a full component level speaker systems, avoid mix and matching those. I don't have any pics, I haven't done the upgrade yet, you know....money issues.
Get some tweeters that have surface mount kits for the tweeters, the a-pillar plastic seems to have enough flat surface for good clean installs. I will be doing this upgrade, but it'll be a while.
Get some tweeters that have surface mount kits for the tweeters, the a-pillar plastic seems to have enough flat surface for good clean installs. I will be doing this upgrade, but it'll be a while.
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i just did this last weekend with the install of the lucid rear speaker pannels, to remove you pry out the radio door from the top and sides, very carefully with a screw driver that you have covered in electrical tape so as not to scratch....it all comes out in one piece and goes in the same way, although that is the hardest part of the install on my car. after the door assembly is removed you can unscrew 4 philllips head screws that hold the unit in and just pull it out, there are two plubs, white and blue and the antena. the 2004 s stereo says made by Clarion on it. take your time and be patient.
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