Installation of CDA-9847R and KCE-865B in a 2002 S
02-11-2005, 02:34 AM
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Installation of CDA-9847R and KCE-865B in a 2002 S
What you will need:
- The head unit, including the Alpine wiring loom that comes with it. Make sure that the head unit is a CDA-xxxxR. The 'R' means the UK version which includes UK radio reception and the steering remote connection. If you buy a cheap radio off ebay it probably won't have the 'R' and won't work with the KCE-865B.
- The Alpine steering remote adapter (KCE-865B).
- Cable ties.
- A double sided sticky pad.
- An antenna adapter (not supplied with the stereo).
- A small flat bladed screwdriver wrapped in insulating tape.
- A larger cross headed (#3 Philips head) screwdriver.
- Patience.
Please make sure you read all of this page before attempting it yourself. You don't want to have to do what I did and drive to Halfords with a partially fitted stereo wrapped in a fleece hanging out of the console because you forgot something.
The first thing you should do is read this link here:
http://lucidauto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv...ode=radioremove
This link will give you an approximate insight into how to remove the facia and stereo.
Removing the old stereo
Eject any CDs in the old stereo. I forgot to do this.
Put the car into gear (I found 4th easiest) as you won't be able to remove the old radio with the gear shifter in the way.
With a small screwdriver prise the facia at the seam above the centre console vents. I had most success about an inch in from each side. You are listening/feeling for a click as the clips give way. Be gentle as the plastic marks easily.
At this point I diverged from the Lucid Auto instructions and wedged the larger screwdriver into the gap so that the clips didn't spring shut again. I then eased my fingers onto the top of the facia so that I could pull it free with my hands. I did this because I felt more comfortable applying the force to the plastic with my fingers.
You will feel the clips release as you gently pull the facia down from the top. Once you have all but the bottom clips free pull the facia away from the dash as evenly as you can. You may find it easier to hold the sides of the facia or the flip-down panel.
You should now have an unbroken, unmarked plastic facia in your hands. Put it safely to one side as it's the last thing you'll need and will only get damaged if you keep it nearby.
You should see a stereo front that looks a lot like the one in the pic from the Lucid Autos link. Undo the four screws illustrated in that picture and store them somewhere safe. I put them in the cup holder.
Ease the old stereo forward and upwards to clear the console and gear lever. You will need to remove the aerial connector and blue plastic rectangular connector. The plastic connector has a release on the top edge, make sure you pull the connector itself while pressing on this release. Do not pull the wires.
With the #3 Philips screwdriver (don't try anything small as you'll strip the head) remove the brackets from the side of the old stereo. You will note that the brackets have 'L' and 'R' written on them. This is Left and Right as you look at the front panel of the stereo. With the same screwdriver move these brackets on to the new stereo, taking care to use the mounting holes in the same position as the ones you're removing them from.
Electrical connections
Remove the wiring looms from the packaging and connect the rectangular connectors together, resulting in a black connector ready to plug in to the back of the new stereo. Do not plug this in yet.
Connect the blue/white striped wire from the stereo loom to the blue wire (labelled as blue/white) from the adapter loom. This is the power for the adapter.
Connect the pink/black striped wire from the stereo loom to the peach coloured wire (labelled Tel Mute) from the adapter loom. This is the mute/interrupt signal from the dash control.
Connect the yellow and red wires from the stereo loom to the other end of the yellow and red wires. These wires are the power for the unit. One is the switched live (from the ignition) and one is the permanent live. I don't know why these aren't connected in the loom at the factory.
Connect the aerial adapter to the loose aerial connector.
Cable tie the loom so that there are no loose wires. The 3.5mm jack for the remote control is attached to a very long wire so you may choose to lap the cable a couple of times to get it approximately the right length.
At this point you should connect the new stereo to the leads and double check that everything works. The dash controls, FM reception etc should all work. Don't get carried away because the unit will forget everything you've programmed as soon as you disconnect it again, which you'll have to do to carry on.
Push the black adapter box through the back of the console and out to the right hand side, exiting under the steering column. There is not enough room behind the stereo to keep the adapter in the console.
Trial fit the adapter on the back of the plastic coming down from the steering column. There should be plenty of room to conceal the adapter behind there without intruding on anything.
Attach the sticky pad to the bottom of the adapter and affix it permanently in position. I used a small part of the sticky pad so that it would come off easily if I wanted to.
Pull as much of the loom through to the console area as you can while leaving enough to connect the stereo at the other end. Cable tie as appropriate, but I didn't need to.
Installing the new stereo
Connect the leads to the back of the stereo. You will need the rectangular connector, the 3.5mm remote control jack and the aerial connector. You may also have a CD changer connection.
Ease the stereo close to the console and push the cables into the back of the slot with your fingers. The cables will easily trap on the various structures around the slot so be a little careful and it will pay off.
Ease the stereo all the way in and check that it seats easily against the screw mounts at the side. If not pull it all out and try and work out which cable was being trapped.
Keep doing this until the stereo is flush against the mounting points. Put the screws that you stored in the cup holder in (#3 Philips again) and double check that all functions on the stereo (CD, MP3, dash control, mute, FM reception, CD changer, ignition off memory) work properly.
Put the flimsy Alpine plastic surround onto the stereo, put the Alpine front panel on and then retrieve the facia and clip it back on.
Check all functions, check the adapter is still fixed firmly and tidy up all the crap you've distributed around the car.
How the dash controls work
Using a CDA-9847R head unit the controls work as follows:
In Tuner mode:
Mute: Mute.
CH.: Scans upwards for next station. Does not cycle presets unfortunately.
Mode: Switches to CD.
Volume: Volume.
In CD/MP3 mode:
Mute: Pause.
CH.: Next track on CD or next random track if 'Mix' is turned on.
Mode: Switches to Tuner (maybe changer if connected - don't know).
Volume: Volume.
Don't forget
- Eject the CD out of the old head unit.
- Take it slowly and gently. You're going to hate it if you mark or scratch something.
- Cable tie and stick the cables and adapter well out of the way. Trapped cables make for unreliable and bad connections.
- Make sure you have everything before you start.
- Find a fleece or jumper to wrap the head unit in while you're mucking around. Saves scratching one or the other.
All comments welcome...
- The head unit, including the Alpine wiring loom that comes with it. Make sure that the head unit is a CDA-xxxxR. The 'R' means the UK version which includes UK radio reception and the steering remote connection. If you buy a cheap radio off ebay it probably won't have the 'R' and won't work with the KCE-865B.
- The Alpine steering remote adapter (KCE-865B).
- Cable ties.
- A double sided sticky pad.
- An antenna adapter (not supplied with the stereo).
- A small flat bladed screwdriver wrapped in insulating tape.
- A larger cross headed (#3 Philips head) screwdriver.
- Patience.
Please make sure you read all of this page before attempting it yourself. You don't want to have to do what I did and drive to Halfords with a partially fitted stereo wrapped in a fleece hanging out of the console because you forgot something.
The first thing you should do is read this link here:
http://lucidauto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv...ode=radioremove
This link will give you an approximate insight into how to remove the facia and stereo.
Removing the old stereo
Eject any CDs in the old stereo. I forgot to do this.
Put the car into gear (I found 4th easiest) as you won't be able to remove the old radio with the gear shifter in the way.
With a small screwdriver prise the facia at the seam above the centre console vents. I had most success about an inch in from each side. You are listening/feeling for a click as the clips give way. Be gentle as the plastic marks easily.
At this point I diverged from the Lucid Auto instructions and wedged the larger screwdriver into the gap so that the clips didn't spring shut again. I then eased my fingers onto the top of the facia so that I could pull it free with my hands. I did this because I felt more comfortable applying the force to the plastic with my fingers.
You will feel the clips release as you gently pull the facia down from the top. Once you have all but the bottom clips free pull the facia away from the dash as evenly as you can. You may find it easier to hold the sides of the facia or the flip-down panel.
You should now have an unbroken, unmarked plastic facia in your hands. Put it safely to one side as it's the last thing you'll need and will only get damaged if you keep it nearby.
You should see a stereo front that looks a lot like the one in the pic from the Lucid Autos link. Undo the four screws illustrated in that picture and store them somewhere safe. I put them in the cup holder.
Ease the old stereo forward and upwards to clear the console and gear lever. You will need to remove the aerial connector and blue plastic rectangular connector. The plastic connector has a release on the top edge, make sure you pull the connector itself while pressing on this release. Do not pull the wires.
With the #3 Philips screwdriver (don't try anything small as you'll strip the head) remove the brackets from the side of the old stereo. You will note that the brackets have 'L' and 'R' written on them. This is Left and Right as you look at the front panel of the stereo. With the same screwdriver move these brackets on to the new stereo, taking care to use the mounting holes in the same position as the ones you're removing them from.
Electrical connections
Remove the wiring looms from the packaging and connect the rectangular connectors together, resulting in a black connector ready to plug in to the back of the new stereo. Do not plug this in yet.
Connect the blue/white striped wire from the stereo loom to the blue wire (labelled as blue/white) from the adapter loom. This is the power for the adapter.
Connect the pink/black striped wire from the stereo loom to the peach coloured wire (labelled Tel Mute) from the adapter loom. This is the mute/interrupt signal from the dash control.
Connect the yellow and red wires from the stereo loom to the other end of the yellow and red wires. These wires are the power for the unit. One is the switched live (from the ignition) and one is the permanent live. I don't know why these aren't connected in the loom at the factory.
Connect the aerial adapter to the loose aerial connector.
Cable tie the loom so that there are no loose wires. The 3.5mm jack for the remote control is attached to a very long wire so you may choose to lap the cable a couple of times to get it approximately the right length.
At this point you should connect the new stereo to the leads and double check that everything works. The dash controls, FM reception etc should all work. Don't get carried away because the unit will forget everything you've programmed as soon as you disconnect it again, which you'll have to do to carry on.
Push the black adapter box through the back of the console and out to the right hand side, exiting under the steering column. There is not enough room behind the stereo to keep the adapter in the console.
Trial fit the adapter on the back of the plastic coming down from the steering column. There should be plenty of room to conceal the adapter behind there without intruding on anything.
Attach the sticky pad to the bottom of the adapter and affix it permanently in position. I used a small part of the sticky pad so that it would come off easily if I wanted to.
Pull as much of the loom through to the console area as you can while leaving enough to connect the stereo at the other end. Cable tie as appropriate, but I didn't need to.
Installing the new stereo
Connect the leads to the back of the stereo. You will need the rectangular connector, the 3.5mm remote control jack and the aerial connector. You may also have a CD changer connection.
Ease the stereo close to the console and push the cables into the back of the slot with your fingers. The cables will easily trap on the various structures around the slot so be a little careful and it will pay off.
Ease the stereo all the way in and check that it seats easily against the screw mounts at the side. If not pull it all out and try and work out which cable was being trapped.
Keep doing this until the stereo is flush against the mounting points. Put the screws that you stored in the cup holder in (#3 Philips again) and double check that all functions on the stereo (CD, MP3, dash control, mute, FM reception, CD changer, ignition off memory) work properly.
Put the flimsy Alpine plastic surround onto the stereo, put the Alpine front panel on and then retrieve the facia and clip it back on.
Check all functions, check the adapter is still fixed firmly and tidy up all the crap you've distributed around the car.
How the dash controls work
Using a CDA-9847R head unit the controls work as follows:
In Tuner mode:
Mute: Mute.
CH.: Scans upwards for next station. Does not cycle presets unfortunately.
Mode: Switches to CD.
Volume: Volume.
In CD/MP3 mode:
Mute: Pause.
CH.: Next track on CD or next random track if 'Mix' is turned on.
Mode: Switches to Tuner (maybe changer if connected - don't know).
Volume: Volume.
Don't forget
- Eject the CD out of the old head unit.
- Take it slowly and gently. You're going to hate it if you mark or scratch something.
- Cable tie and stick the cables and adapter well out of the way. Trapped cables make for unreliable and bad connections.
- Make sure you have everything before you start.
- Find a fleece or jumper to wrap the head unit in while you're mucking around. Saves scratching one or the other.
All comments welcome...
02-11-2005, 02:52 AM
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Point taken but I'm a tinkerer and I like to know what's happening behind the plastic. I'd much rather be able to fix it myself, IYSWIM.
However you're probably right. It took me a few hours so for most people here it wouldn't be economical to fit it themselves.
However you're probably right. It took me a few hours so for most people here it wouldn't be economical to fit it themselves.
02-11-2005, 04:27 AM
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Stuart,
Great write up
I made the CD mistake on a grand scale - I forgot to eject the cartridge from the CD changer!
One thing to add is that if the HU is a V-Drive (i.e. 60W) you'll need to run a power connector directly to the battery rather than using the Honda wiring - which really is fun!
I'm sure this has been covered elsewhere, so all I can add is that the method that worked best for me was to use the tube from a Bic biro and punch this through the firewall membrane. The power cable can then be fed down the centre of the tube. Once done simply slide the tube out and fetch the wire out the passender footwell, et voila....
Great write up
I made the CD mistake on a grand scale - I forgot to eject the cartridge from the CD changer!
One thing to add is that if the HU is a V-Drive (i.e. 60W) you'll need to run a power connector directly to the battery rather than using the Honda wiring - which really is fun!
I'm sure this has been covered elsewhere, so all I can add is that the method that worked best for me was to use the tube from a Bic biro and punch this through the firewall membrane. The power cable can then be fed down the centre of the tube. Once done simply slide the tube out and fetch the wire out the passender footwell, et voila....
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