My Sig was getting a little out of control with links to all the individual threads about the various mods to my car. I decided it would be easier to just consolodate the information into a single thread.

There is a lot of "how-to" information contained below. I hope you find it helpful, and I am always willing to help as much as I can through PM.

Future writeups will be added to the end of this thread, and the first post will always have current pictures posted in it.

But it all started here, bone stock and brand new in 2003. Silverstone with Black interior:




Now:




I ended up selling the car. I put her back to stock, and traded her in on a 2008 Corvette Coupe. Details here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...&f=31&t=589304





There were a couple of threads that I had linked in my sig. I wanted to include them here:

Kodokan_4 Seat Locks
Fumoto Oil Valve
Top Down Without Stopping

 

My first thought when I got my S2000 was security. Both for me and the car. The fact is, I was driving on a ticket when I bought the S2000, and one more anytime in the next 11 months or so could have resulted in the suspension of my lisense. So my first mod was a security system and radar detector. Here is the original writeup:

I now have a Passport 8500 x50 in Blue:



Smart cord mounted:



I orignally mounted the Prox Sensor in the Secret Compartment. It was not as effective as I would have liked so I relocated it to under the armrest.

Proximity Sensor in Secret Compartment:



Prox Sensor Under Armrest.jpg


Siren (Lower Right) and Hood Pin (Upper Right)


The remote:


Here is a link to the original thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=121061

 

I originally wanted red interior on my car. My dealship didn't have any, but they did have 9 Silverstone/Black cars on the lot. So I was able to make a deal. The more I learned about the car's options, the more I realized I really didn't want the ALL-red interior. So I have chosen the pieces and parts I wanted to have to make the car look the way I wanted it to on the inside.

Here is my original writeup:

First I scowered eBay and junkyards until I found a set of red seats. I was able to sell my black seats for some decent money to help offset the costs. Then I noticed a post from another member who said that he might want black door panel inserts for his Sebring/Red. So I quickly PM'ed him. We met up in Indiana, about half way between each of us and swapped door panel inserts in an Applebee's parking lot.

I then went to Rick's to get the rest. I convinced him to make me the charcoal floormats with the red leather border. I also managed to snag a console cover and visor covers. Here are all the pix:

This is from the door panel swap. My car is on top, Hickey's is on the bottom



The insert comes out pretty easily once you get the panel off. Basically it is 10-12 screws holding it in place. There is one "press washer" on the panel holding it in place. Basically it is flat washer on a plastic stud. It's a PITA to get off. Out of the four press washers, we only broke one. It was on my drivers side door. I have not had any problems or issues (rattling.) Here is a pic of the press washer:



Here are the seats the day I got them:



Here are the final pix showing all the bits and how they work together:





Also notice that to protect my investment, I have installed the Kodokan_4 Seat Locks.





*EDIT* Updated Pix and added Rick's Red/Black Steering wheel:






Here is the link to the original thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=141876

 

I then decided I wanted a little performance boost.

I finally decided I wanted to get a cold air intake for my car. After hearing about the performance gains I figured it was the best "bang for the buck." Install was pretty easy (once I got some help from a friend with more experience than me.) I already had my front bumper off to clear my headlights so I did not have to worry about that.

The finish on the CAI was a little scratched up, not bad or even visable once installed.

My first drive was VERY exciting. It was almost better than the first VTEC in a way. When you go wide open throttle, below VTEC there is a very satisfying rumble to the whole car. You definatly feel it, and others around will hear it. It reminds me of a dog growling before it attacks. Once the car goes into VTEC, look out because this dog bites! The car erupts into a ROAR that is very, very loud. Just last night I went out to dinner with a fiend of mine, when I left he was on the phone with his girlfiend. He called me 15 mins later to tell me that he could hear me going through the gears from about 1/2 mi away! At about 8900 RPM the rumble starts to come back. I found that I can reliable use that rumble to help me guage my shifts.

Overall I am highly impressed, and I love it.

I have heard about hydrolock issues with people and this type of intake. Bear in mind that this is NOT a daily driver for me. It is a garage queen, and I try very hard to avoid rain. I also heard a suggestion that I like from Xviper. He suggested plugging the drain hole on the passenger side rain channel under the hood. This will prevent rain water from running down and saturating the filter. I have not done this yet, but will soon.

While I was ordering from 4IG I also ordered a carbing plate to cover the front of the motor and the radiator. You can see the CAI and the rad plate in the first pic here.








In order to install the rad plate I had to remove this piece from under the bumper attachment points.



I have had some issues with getting the hood to latch properly. I will have to fiddle with the latch mechanism to make it work correctly.

4IG is no longer in business AFAIK.

Here is a link to the original thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=141884

 

While the front bumper was off with the CAI, I was in the process of clearing my Healights and side markers:

I kinda like the idea of "shaving" things off the car, but I am much too chicken to actually do it. Instead, I wanted to just make things less obvious. A clear example (no pun intended) is the amber diffusers and side markers. I wanted to make that bright amber color go away until it was needed. I wanted to do the smoked diffusers to try and make the headlights look more like they were all once piece. I then decided I wanted the side markers to match that. So I order the Diffusers from Rick's but he did not have the side markers in Smoked. I found them online from This site in Germany. I had to paypal the webmaster because their online ordering is not working, and it too a couple of weeks to get them, but I think they look great. What do you think?





Here is the link to the original thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=141880

 

While the front was all apart, I went for an Audio System too. Here is the writeup:
I am using:
Memphis Power Reference PR4.50 Speakers Amp
Memphis Power Reference PR1.500 Sub Amp
Sony CDX-M850MP
Connects2USA.com iPod to Sony Adapter
4GB iPod Nano
Modifry Sony DCI
Boston Acoustic FS60X 6 1/2" Component front speakers
Boston Acoustic FX5 5 1/4" Rear Speakers
Marks2002 S-Pods S-Pod Info (Consolidated Information) Thread
Elemental Designs 11kv.2 Sub in WLAURENT's passenger side box.

I had a lot of help on this from both people here and some of my friends in the "real" world. Thanks to everyone.

My requirements were that I needed to hear the radio at speed. I wanted to play MP3s. I did not want to lose any space in the trunk. I tried an Alpine once, but was not happy with the controls. I wanted to try Sony this time. I decided to get a 5 channel amp so that I could add a sub later if I needed to and not have to add another amp. I found it hard enough to locate one amp, I didn't want to find room for two. Of course, the dash controls needed to work too.


I ran 4ga wire from the battery to the trunk along the passenger side sill. I also ran my amp turn on wire the same place so I could mount the amp in the spare tire area.

I ran the interconnects from the HU to the amp through the center console area. I also ran the speaker wire to the front through there too. I mounted the front x-overs under dash.

Running speaker wire through the doors was a PITA. The hard part for me was getting the tape off the grommet. Once that was accomplished, there is a lot of extra room in the grommet itself. As suggested my MacGyver, a long wire-tie was perfect as a fish tape. I had to trim the tweeter mounts significantly, and I am still not 100% happy with the drivers side tweeter, but it does look stock. (The surface mount option that came with the speakers was too small to cover the factory hole in the door panel.) 3/4" spacers were needed to mount the woofer, but it does not hit the door panel or the window.

The rear speakers were not easy either. I got the S-Pods from Marks2002, and it should have been easy. Unfortunately the design of the S-Pods and the design of the speakers were not cohesive. The speakers are supposed to mount to the front of the S-Pod after installing it to the car. What I had to do was mount the speaker to the BACK of the S-Pod's plate then assemble it with a speaker in the way. (The pix below will help this make sense.) With different speakers, this would have been MUCH easier.

EDIT -- I originally had Kenwood rear speakers and the above refers to this install. The Boston Acoustics fit VERY nicely.

The Modifry Sony DCI was a piece of cake to hook up. Works like a charm. I wish I could change some of the functions around a little, but overall I am VERY happy. The speed sensitive volume is VERY cool. I looked at the DJ Qube option, and was originally going to go that route. In the end, I am glad I did not. As it turns out there are functions that can ONLY be done with the remote for the HU. (DJ Qube's solution uses the guts of the remote to make it work.) It is now hardwired (no photo eye.)

I stopped in the middle of this project to clear my headlights and install my CAI. I also drove for about 2 weeks without the amp or front speakers hooked up while I was trying to figure out how to mount the speakers. I figure I have about 25-30 hours into the setup over a period of about 4 weeks. It sounds fantastic! I get very good bass (at least for me.) The sound is crisp and clear. I have full balance and fade controls so I don't have any problems with the sound stage. Maybe in the spring I will add a Wlaurant Sub enclosure, but I am done with it for now. BTW -- Because of the speed sensitive volume I was able to test the limits of this setup. While I don't believe I have found the limit I have found that I can hear the radio at 105MPH!

Pix:
I want all of THIS in THERE:


Interior Stripped:



Here is the trimming I did to fit the original front speakers. the stock speaker basket is on the left, and the cut one is on the right.


The current speakers I am running (the Boston Acoustics) didn't fit in the baskets at all. I am running custom speaker spacers now.







This is how the S-Pod is supposed to go in.



The mounting flange on the speaker, and the height of the tweeter meant I needed to modify the S-Pod and mount the speaker from behind:



Here is what it looks like on the car:





Here is the speaker with the grille off, and the back of the grille:



EDIT: I added PAS2KNUT's new amp rack:




EDIT: I added a Sub in one of WLAURENT'S enclosures with his grille.





EDIT: I just added an iPod Nano to the setup:




EDIT: Replaced the MTX Amp with two Memphis Amps:




Impressions of the Memphis Amps can be found here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=S...0#entry10586168
A link to the original thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140461

 

When I saw some of the preview pix of MacGyver's Windscreen mod I knew I wanted it. I know some people will call it rice. If you think it's rice, please keep your opinion to yourself.

Click Here to have MacGyver do this for you.

The installation was VERY easy. I had to drill a 1/2" diameter hole in the top of my secret comparment. The hole is completely covered my the windscreen mechanism. There is a "phone" type cable coming down from the windscreen mechansim. This gets plugged into the control box. I mounted the control box in the secret comparment itself for easy access. Coming out of the control box is a pig-tail of four wires. The color code is labled on the control box itself (which is a very nice touch.) There is a ground wire, power-on wire, brake wire, and soft-top wire. Ran the wires from inside the secret comparment through the plastic (another hole.) I ran all the wires down behind the lower-roll hoop trim panel (the one with the hooks in it.) I found a nice ground behind there. I tapped the brake wire behind the trim panel next to the drivers seat, almost right behind the striker plate for the door. I then ran the power-on wire along the factory wireing in the channel along the driver's sill. I then ran the wire to a toggle switch that I mounted under the dash. I then ran the wire through an inline fuse and into the spare spade connector on the fuse block that is controlled by the lights. I did not connect the wire for the soft top.

What I found out was that the brake will work no matter what is going on with the "power-on wire." I wanted the ability to disable the whole windscreen with a single switch. I could have easily wired both the brake and power-on wires through a DPST switch, but I did not have one. I also did not want to have to move the brake wire splice, or have to extend it. So I decided to use a relay. I have it triggered by the "power-on" lead and the brake wire interrups the brake wire line to the control box. This works very well. The windscreen flashes when I lock/unlock the doors.

Here is a schematic of my wiring setup. I was using the 5a fuse for testing purposes. I believe a 1a fuse will work fine.



This is what it looks like mounted, from the back.



This is under the secret compartment cover:



A closeup of the control box:



Here is where I came through the secret compartment for the wiring. I circled the hole in red as it is a little hard to see. This is taken from the passenger side.



The wiring behind the panel, with my relay installed.



The switch under the dash



Here is the windscreen on (it is a little brighter than this, but this is about the best I could get with my camera



Here is the windscreen lit up red:



With the brake lights:



A link to the original thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=152614

 

When not running MacGyver's windscreen light, I wanted to be able to mount a camera there. Here is my writeup:

I wanted to be able to mount a camera to my car for any type of group drive, autox or track event. So I ordered up the MPTuning camera mount. The problem was that when I went to mount it up with my cameras I had some problems. The mount is not the easiest thing to setup and get mounted to the car. I knew that with the difficulty I had, I would not use it very often, and when I did use it I would be concerned about leaving the cameras mounted to the car. So I decided to make some modifications to the mount to make it more friendly to use for my needs.

Here is the basic problem: I can't attach the cameras to the mount before mounting it to the car, and I can't mount the cameras after I attach the mount.

There were two solutions to this problem. The first related to the fact that the cross bar was held on by two socket head cap screws. When in place, these screws are not accessible because it is impossible to get a wrench or a bit into the head of the screw because the roll-hoop is in the way. So I replaced the cap screws with regular hex-head screws. For anyone interested in replacing them, they are M6.

The camera mount reuses the windscreen mounting holes. In some cars there are captured nuts inside the top of the secret compartment. If your car does not have captured nuts, then the MPTuning kit has you covered with wingnuts so you can tighten them from below. However, if you have the captured nuts, then you need to tighten the screws from the top. Of course, with the top bar in place you cannot access these screws. I solved this by drilling two 1/2" holes 1.5" from each end so I can reach the screws with a screwdriver from over, even with the top bar in place.

The third problem was that I did not want to leave the cameras in place on the mount when I was away from the car. This required me to do some shopping, but I found two different quick-release heads that I was able to easily attach to the camera mount by using the screws that I bought from MPTuning and the holes that were originally in the mount.

Ok, enough of my yapping. Here is are the pix:

First you can see one of the camera mounts, one of the holes I drilled for access, and the new M6 bolt for the end screw:


Here are the two cameras mounted up and ready to rock. Notice that plugged into the power outlet is a power inverter. The AC adapter is plugged into the inverter and tucked in by the seatbelt latch on the passenger side. That powers the Video Camera.


Here is what it looks like from the back:



And from the front:



Here is a closeup of the larger camera mount. It has it's own tilt built in.


Here is what it looks like without any cameras:




Here is a link to the original thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=210977

 

2005 Was the year of the body mods for me. First up, was a new hood:

Here we go:

Look, Ma. No hood


What's this on the floor?


First time on the car. The fit, well, it needed adjustment.




I would like to say that in general I don't like big, naked carbon fiber panels on cars. However, I have to say I thought (briefly) about leaving the hood CF. It looks SOOOOOO good on Silverstone. Of course, I ended up painting it. I also had the bumper plugs and the front H emblem shaved off. Here it is:












































Now for something completely different. The hood came with some mesh covering the vents from the inside. I decided to have that powder coated and here is the result:








These things GLOW in sunshine (or under a camera flash) they are WAY bright. In the garage, or overcast they are much more subtle.



They seem to match the brake calipers very well


From inside the car:


Now, these aren't for everyone. I know some are going to love and some are going to hate these. I like it, so that's all that really matters.


I had tweaked the hood to fit "better." The body shop tweaked it and it fits AWESOME now:




Here is the link to the original thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=284655

 

While I was busy working on the hood, I was also having some fun under the hood:

The powder coater I use is located about 75 miles from my house. Sometimes I can meet up with him half-way, and sometime we mail parts. However, this time I just couldn't wait any longer. So I drove down to his shop to pick up my new valve cover.

First, was it worth all this:



YES!!!

I wanted to continue my red/black interior theme under the hood. I had many parts done just before I took the car out of storage.

The valve cover just looked SOOOO bad with the red ignition cover.


So I bought a new valve cover to powder coat (while I was still able to drive the car.) Here are the pictures of the two valve covers together.



I removed the old valve cover. Here are some engine parts most people will never see:







The final result:









Here is a link to the original thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=292665