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So I did a few dyno pulls than installed my berk header dyno'd than put on the test pipe and dyno'd again...heres the results
first run was done with cat on T1R 70mm cat-back
second run was header, cat, 70mm..
third was header,70mm header back
(elevation 3000ft it was 86degrees out)
Looks like what Berk claimed to make, but I didnt keep up with whether or not they removed the cat. I was looking at hp graph, what I think is your second run. You lost 3hp with the header, cat and 70mm? Correct me if I'm wrong. So torque stayed the same but lost power up top. I'm also assuming you have an AP2. For the third run you ran no cat? So basically your sole gain was from removing the cat. Intake temperatures could have played a role here, but doing it all on the same day at the same temperatures roughly should be fairly accurate. I'd like to see others with dyno's. S2k is tricky business. What are the Runner, collector sizes?
From my tuning experience, the header is a little better in the middle than the dyno alone suggests, but overall this header produces very little additional performance.
Did you reset the ecu in between the mods/dyno runs? Did you drive around and let the ECU adapt to the new conditions? Or was this literally install and re-dyno?
If I'm reading this right, you lost a few Hp with the header and picked up a few with the test pipe.
In the nut shell, this header lost power over stock is what I see. I guess like you said you lost weight
Originally Posted by rwheelz,Oct 26 2007, 08:37 AM
Did you reset the ecu in between the mods/dyno runs? Did you drive around and let the ECU adapt to the new conditions? Or was this literally install and re-dyno?
WOT is open loop so I don't think it matters regardless, but even if it did look at the AF ratios, they didn't move. You need the AF ratio to move in order to get gains from adding more fuel.
In some ways resetting the ECU may make for a bad comparison because the computer will change timing until it relearns what the gas can handle before knock.