I know everyone has already seen the article but I have not found anyone who has actually built an engine using this combination. I just assembled my bottom end yesterday and will be finishing it up over the next few months (I'm not in any hurry since my car will be put away for the winter). In case anyone has not read this article, here is a link.

http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0609turp...uild/index.html

So that everyone knows the cost associated with this build, here is running total. (Please note that I am using many parts which are not necessary for this build. I am using these "optional" parts to make more power but I don't not find them to be a necessity. I am only including them to provide full details to my setup and show others the cost of building something similar.)

Complete engine - $700 (used, obviously)
H22A rods- $50 (used)
K24 crankshaft - $350 (used)
Mahle Goldseries 11.5:1 H22A pistons - $410 (FRM friendly)
KMS blockguard - $100
ACL bearings - $110
Honda block gasket kit - $22
Machine work - $1023 (including blockguard installation, balancing, honing, and inspection of the mains and deck)
Headwork - $350 (pressure checked, new seats, decked, and head and intake manifold portmatched)
KMS valves - $250
Head gasket kit - $60
Hondata IM gasket - $40
Head porting - $FREE
Full assembly - $FREE
Skunk stage II cams, pro series valve springs, retainers, and bases - $750 (used)
Skunk II 70mm throttle body - $275
Seimens 675cc injectors - $225 (used)
Inline Pro injector clips - $60
Inline Pro extended fuel rail studs - $50
Parts necessary for KPro conversion - $280 (new)
PRB KPro - $950 (used)
KPro S2000 conversion - $450 plus shipping
Spoon flywheel - $350

Here are pictures of a F20C crank beside my machined K24 crank (right).








Here is a photo of the lip on the K24 crank, courtesy of ksrd.



Here are my H22A rods after being milled.







I was a little concerned about stress on the cylinders from the increased rod angle, so I used a KMS blockguard.





This is what the underside of the cylinders looks like after they have been notched.



Since the article only speaks about modifying or eliminating the oil squirters but does not show pictures, here is what the squirter looks like installed. Note how the nozzle is angled inward toward the notch aka the path of the rod. This is why they would need to be modified.



Before I began assembly, I drilled the squirter holes and tapped them to install set screws. I realized that it was nearly impossible to find set screws with the same diameter and pitch as the squirters plus it was simple to clean out the shavings.





Because of the depth of the holes I could not use the bar handle for my taps, so I used a 12 point 9mm socket and a rachet.





Pistons and rods



And installed



Bearings installed



Crank installed



Lower block bolted on



Oil pump installed



Finished bottom end



In addition to everything you see here, the keyway which locks the timing sprocket and crank pulley to the crankshaft had to be shortened. The keyway was .60" too long which prevented the crank pulley bolt from seating flush against the pulley. Five minutes with my die grinder and the flat/non-tapered end was ground down .60", allowing the bolt to seat flush.

 

Nice! cant wait to see what it can do!

 

nice. overbore?

BTW why is this in the JDM section?

 

Awesome thread. Good luck w/ the install and tune afterwards

 

My only concern w/ this kit is there appears to be a good amount of custom work involved, such that the performance and reliability of the 2.4L will ultimately depend on the shop's work.

 

What are you planning to Rev it too?

 

I really, really wanted to do this also, however I could not gather enough info on it. And Im not building a motor based on a two page article in a magazine

 

looks like an awesome project, good luck, whats your power goals?

 

Cool, someone is actually doing this build!!! I can't wait to see the finished product and a dyno!!!

What do you plan on using for engine management? AEM EMS?

 

Nice!