Not all AP2s. I believe that you're referring to the S2Ks featuring drive-by-wire (used in 2006 - 2009). More info located here.

I've been planning on doing exactly the same. About how long did this take you to complete? I'm also curious to know why you set your valves on the tight side of the spec? I ask because I was planning on setting the valves more towards the looser side of the spec. I suppose because I've always been more concerned about valves that become too tight as opposed to those that become too loose.

If you go with refurbishing the OEM TCT and re-installing it or installing the Billman unit, the biggest concern along those lines would be when it comes to pulling the compression pin out. There is no need to do this with the TCT offered by Ballade Sports due to the way they've designed their unit. I myself chose to install the Billman TCT for a variety of reasons. I did this as a preventative measure and found it to be a very straightforward job, even though I too had similar concerns. I found that using a pair of 90 degree (bent nose) needle nose pliers made the task of pulling out the compression pin easier.

 

Thanks for the response Deckoz. I don't want to hijack Rick17's thread too badly, but I figure that shared knowledge is a good thing if it relates to the main thread topic.

I appreciate the info. My S has 27K+ miles. Thus far I've only carried out motorcycle engine valve adjustments and I set the valves to the middle of the specified ranges. When it comes to any mechanical work new to me I just proceed slowly with as much patience as I can muster. I typically always end up on the high side of the actual time involved for any given task. (So I'll plan for a minimum of 4 hours, lol.)

 

In response to your questions: The VA and plug replacement took me about 4 hours if I remember correctly. But, it was the first time I had done a VA in 20 year or more, and the first time ever on this engine. Also, I am an amateur mechanic, not a professional by any stretch of the imagination. My guess is that the next time I do this, probably next spring, it will be a two hour job for me. Still, I recommend that you do it on a day off with all the time in the world so you can go slow and make sure you have it right before you close it up. I set them within oem specs, but on the tight side of the spec. I did that because that is what Billman does on his car, (I believe I am correct on that), and because he reports virtually zero slippage on his valve gaps on his ap1. I don't think it amounts to a hill of beans frankly as far as performance, but I am not sure on that, if anything the tight side might give a tiny bit better performance. Again, I honestly don't think it is going to be a big deal worth worrying about either way. Also, I will be checking my valve gaps more frequently than most folks, so if there is any tightening I will catch it early. If I did not plan to check them frequently I would probably set them on the loose side of the spec just for peace of mind.

I will say this though. With that VA and Sparkplug change last year my engine really started to purr. It is a great low mileage engine, and a joy to drive and hear it running up the revs. My guess it was the 15 year old plugs that needed changing, not the VA. But I'll never know for sure. That is an argument for doing one thing at at time so you know what is affecting the engine when you are done.

 

 

 

Yes. I am the same. Although I had a lot of years in the middle of my life when I did not do a lot of wrench turning, if any,
I think the one thing that will kill these motors is significant mechanical over revs. Also, they can sometimes use a lot more oil than you are used to and so you have to keep an eye on oil level between changes. And, of course, there is the ap2 dbw valve gaps that need to be watched carefully to avoid burning.