Miata Owner Considering Jumping Ship
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From: Oak Island
"I'm strongly considering this S2000. http://clarksville.c...5076248491.html I've got a friend who can do paint, and I'd love to learn, so the fender is just the cost of PDR or a new fender + materials for pain
Decent price for this AP1. Do you know about checking to see if the VIN numbers match on the cars various body panels? If the VINs don't match then the body panel was replaced. Also, Google S2KI "valve retainers" and then "oil banjo bolts". These aren't deal breakers, but a couple of things to be aware of/read up on when buying an AP1. Good luck with your decision.
Decent price for this AP1. Do you know about checking to see if the VIN numbers match on the cars various body panels? If the VINs don't match then the body panel was replaced. Also, Google S2KI "valve retainers" and then "oil banjo bolts". These aren't deal breakers, but a couple of things to be aware of/read up on when buying an AP1. Good luck with your decision.
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"I'm strongly considering this S2000. http://clarksville.c...5076248491.html I've got a friend who can do paint, and I'd love to learn, so the fender is just the cost of PDR or a new fender + materials for pain
Decent price for this AP1. Do you know about checking to see if the VIN numbers match on the cars various body panels? If the VINs don't match then the body panel was replaced. Also, Google S2KI "valve retainers" and then "oil banjo bolts". These aren't deal breakers, but a couple of things to be aware of/read up on when buying an AP1. Good luck with your decision.
Decent price for this AP1. Do you know about checking to see if the VIN numbers match on the cars various body panels? If the VINs don't match then the body panel was replaced. Also, Google S2KI "valve retainers" and then "oil banjo bolts". These aren't deal breakers, but a couple of things to be aware of/read up on when buying an AP1. Good luck with your decision.
I did know that you can check parts for the vehicle's VIN to see if they're original. I'm curious why that would matter? Body damage being repaired on a car has never bothered me, so long as it's done well. Is there something I should know/worry about there? I'd try to have the dent pulled by a PDR person before just replacing the whole fender, just don't know the extent of the rust, so I feel I should plan for the worst.
Valve retainers and banjo bolts! Already read on both of them. The valve retainers seem fairly terrifying to me, to be honest. That's my main concern with an S2000. I should read some more about the banjo bolts, as I can't remember off the top of my head exactly what the reason for replacing those is.
Again, really appreciate the input!
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From: Beautiful hills of Tennessee
I too am fairly new to the S, however, I've had both a standard Miata and a Mazdaspeed (turbo) and after drving my '04 AP2 for 6 months I can't see going back to the Miata. The "Fun Factor" is higher in the S and since they are (relatively) rare they get noticed. The new '16 may be the best Miata yet but the cost is an issue. You might try going to a site called GOLSN.com (it is a local sales network that only covers East Central Tennessee) and sometimes you can find really good deals on S2Ks. Good luck and welcome to the madness!
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From: Oak Island
Originally Posted by Yaupon' timestamp='1437614157' post='23689725
"I'm strongly considering this S2000. http://clarksville.c...5076248491.html I've got a friend who can do paint, and I'd love to learn, so the fender is just the cost of PDR or a new fender + materials for pain
Decent price for this AP1. Do you know about checking to see if the VIN numbers match on the cars various body panels? If the VINs don't match then the body panel was replaced. Also, Google S2KI "valve retainers" and then "oil banjo bolts". These aren't deal breakers, but a couple of things to be aware of/read up on when buying an AP1. Good luck with your decision.
Decent price for this AP1. Do you know about checking to see if the VIN numbers match on the cars various body panels? If the VINs don't match then the body panel was replaced. Also, Google S2KI "valve retainers" and then "oil banjo bolts". These aren't deal breakers, but a couple of things to be aware of/read up on when buying an AP1. Good luck with your decision.
I did know that you can check parts for the vehicle's VIN to see if they're original. I'm curious why that would matter? Body damage being repaired on a car has never bothered me, so long as it's done well. Is there something I should know/worry about there? I'd try to have the dent pulled by a PDR person before just replacing the whole fender, just don't know the extent of the rust, so I feel I should plan for the worst.
Valve retainers and banjo bolts! Already read on both of them. The valve retainers seem fairly terrifying to me, to be honest. That's my main concern with an S2000. I should read some more about the banjo bolts, as I can't remember off the top of my head exactly what the reason for replacing those is.
Again, really appreciate the input!
Here is a link that points out the locations where the VIN is located on the various body panels...10 total. It is a good way to verify what the seller is telling you. If all the VINs check out then you can buy with confidence that everything is original. Conversely, if the VINs do not check out then you would need to determine why and whether there are other issues to consider.e.g., suspension damage, etc. You shouldn't worry, just know how much due diligence you have to do.
https://plus.google.com/photos/11110...249?banner=pwa
Because I didn't have the maintenance history on my '02 or have the wrenching ability to do it myself, I had the intake valve retainers replaced...cost circa $450 total, labor and OEM retainers. The retainers removed were in perfect shape and didn't have to be replaced. But, that is hindsight and I now have piece of mind that I'm not going to drop a valve and cook the engine.
Regarding the banjo bolts, it has to do with oil starvation. However, it seems to be more of an issue for those that drive at high RPMs for long periods of time, track their cars or are forced induction. I did not change my BB because I do not drive aggressively. Again, do not mean to scare you...just trying to make you aware of an issue.
Also, Billman250 and others are a great resource on this site, with loads of valuable information. So, pay attention to any of his posts...they are always helpful.
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Decent price for this AP1. Do you know about checking to see if the VIN numbers match on the cars various body panels? If the VINs don't match then the body panel was replaced. Also, Google S2KI "valve retainers" and then "oil banjo bolts". These aren't deal breakers, but a couple of things to be aware of/read up on when buying an AP1. Good luck with your decision.
Here is a link that points out the locations where the VIN is located on the various body panels...10 total. It is a good way to verify what the seller is telling you. If all the VINs check out then you can buy with confidence that everything is original. Conversely, if the VINs do not check out then you would need to determine why and whether there are other issues to consider.e.g., suspension damage, etc. You shouldn't worry, just know how much due diligence you have to do.
https://plus.google.com/photos/11110...249?banner=pwa
Because I didn't have the maintenance history on my '02 or have the wrenching ability to do it myself, I had the intake valve retainers replaced...cost circa $450 total, labor and OEM retainers. The retainers removed were in perfect shape and didn't have to be replaced. But, that is hindsight and I now have piece of mind that I'm not going to drop a valve and cook the engine.
Regarding the banjo bolts, it has to do with oil starvation. However, it seems to be more of an issue for those that drive at high RPMs for long periods of time, track their cars or are forced induction. I did not change my BB because I do not drive aggressively. Again, do not mean to scare you...just trying to make you aware of an issue.
Also, Billman250 and others are a great resource on this site, with loads of valuable information. So, pay attention to any of his posts...they are always helpful.
Here is a link that points out the locations where the VIN is located on the various body panels...10 total. It is a good way to verify what the seller is telling you. If all the VINs check out then you can buy with confidence that everything is original. Conversely, if the VINs do not check out then you would need to determine why and whether there are other issues to consider.e.g., suspension damage, etc. You shouldn't worry, just know how much due diligence you have to do.
https://plus.google.com/photos/11110...249?banner=pwa
Because I didn't have the maintenance history on my '02 or have the wrenching ability to do it myself, I had the intake valve retainers replaced...cost circa $450 total, labor and OEM retainers. The retainers removed were in perfect shape and didn't have to be replaced. But, that is hindsight and I now have piece of mind that I'm not going to drop a valve and cook the engine.
Regarding the banjo bolts, it has to do with oil starvation. However, it seems to be more of an issue for those that drive at high RPMs for long periods of time, track their cars or are forced induction. I did not change my BB because I do not drive aggressively. Again, do not mean to scare you...just trying to make you aware of an issue.
Also, Billman250 and others are a great resource on this site, with loads of valuable information. So, pay attention to any of his posts...they are always helpful.
Who did you have work on the retainers? I thought that would be a much more expensive process.
No test drive this weekend after all. The S I was planing to go drive has a turbo on it, and I know I'll want that, but don't want to buy someone's turbo project. And I don't feel that it would provide a very accurate S experience.
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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 487
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From: Oak Island
Who did you have work on the retainers? I thought that would be a much more expensive process.[/quote]
Uncle,
I'm located in SE NC, so the retainer work was done at Carolina Dyno, Wilmington, NC. Nice folks, who do great work at a reasonable price.
Uncle,
I'm located in SE NC, so the retainer work was done at Carolina Dyno, Wilmington, NC. Nice folks, who do great work at a reasonable price.
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