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Picked up my first AP1

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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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Default Picked up my first AP1

My first car:

1999 Civic DX Hatchback
1997 B18C Type-R (HMO)
Lots of OEM/Aftermarket Extras







After looking at both S2Ks at the dealership. This one was the obvious choice. Scooped it up for $15,XXX after fees and all with 36,000 mile complete warranty.

100% stock plus Sony/Directed sound system.















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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 08:07 PM
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The ap2 has a lot of miles on it for a 2006 and the seller seems to want to let it go for a lot lower than market value. Make sure you take a good look at the chassis and figure out how much of a beating that motor took during the 85k miles.

Personally I would try to talk the ap1 seller down and scoop that up.

Good luck.
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Yoohoo
The ap2 has a lot of miles on it for a 2006 and the seller seems to want to let it go for a lot lower than market value. Make sure you take a good look at the chassis and figure out how much of a beating that motor took during the 85k miles.

Personally I would try to talk the ap1 seller down and scoop that up.

Good luck.
Hopefully the AP2 drives all right. But are there any common issues to look out for?
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 06:21 AM
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Recommendation: Read this carefully https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/index.php...g-a-used-S2000
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 07:11 AM
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Get the 06 and keep your Civic for winter.
Levi
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 08:25 AM
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Even with 85k the ap2 seems very underpriced, especially from a dealership. They even say it is valued at 18k, but selling for 12k. It seems like it might be a decent deal, but you should really check it out. I have a feeling it has been parked outside a majority of its life, so you may have a lot of undercarriage rust- which will make things very difficult if you plan to modify. Either vehicle you buy, plan on replacing every bolt you remove- and invest in a nice tap and die set.
The ap1 on the other hand looks like it was probably garaged its whole life and rarely driven. If that is the oem top I would be very impressed. The top must still be in decent shape- you can still see through the plastic window.
You have the benefit of trying to buy right before winter. The dealerships will try to move these cars before the weather gets really cold. No normal person wants to buy a small, impractical convertible in the winter. They know this, and they want to get them off their lot before the snow hits- because once it does, the car will just sit there. I highly doubt the ap2 will drop in price, they seem to be trying to sell it quick at that price, but the ap1 can probably be negotiated down a little.
I would check out the ap2 first, that way, if it is good condition you found a nice deal, if it is in not so good condition, you can walk away and go look at the ap1.
If they were both in decent condition, I would go for the ap2 for many reasons (not trying to start an ap1 vs ap2 battle- for reference, I have an 01): hondata flash pro, nicer interior, better motor, (more usable torque and more whp), nicer wheels (more resale value if you choose to sell)- all the other ap1 vs ap2 stuff is an easy solution- swap parts: ap1 flywheel, ap1 slave cylinder, coilovers and sway bars. Looking at the civic, you do not plan to keep this stock. Just a word of advice- do not cheap out on parts.
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 03:32 PM
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Well I ended up getting the AP1. Only managed to get the dealership to lower it down $1,200 since it had small scraps at the bottom of the front bumper. Luckily it's very minimal and the OEM lip will cover that right up. Soft top is mint and original. Previous owner was an older enthusiast. Only thing he did mod wise, was add an amp and two big speakers in the trunk with Sony aftermarket radio. Not really my style so I might be removing that and scoop up an OEM cd player. Also found the original S2000 car cover in the trunk. Gears lock in great, clutch grabs, absolutely no rust/oil spill under the chassis. All stock performance-wise. Does have a few issues, like the cigarette lighter pops out and reveals the wire. Wonder if I can find a way to lock it in. Also the cruise control doesn't seem to engage. The cruise button turns on, and when set, dash light turns on but when foot is off the pedal, it decelerates. Any ideas? And last, I cannot seem to turn on the car with the key. I put it at the on but won't let me move to the turn over position. It's the OEM key and all. So far I've been starting it with the engine start button.
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Bloody Hatch
And last, I cannot seem to turn on the car with the key. I put it at the on but won't let me move to the turn over position. It's the OEM key and all. So far I've been starting it with the engine start button.
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bloody Hatch
And last, I cannot seem to turn on the car with the key. I put it at the on but won't let me move to the turn over position. It's the OEM key and all. So far I've been starting it with the engine start button.
Can't tell if you're serious.
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 08:01 PM
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There's a TSB on the key not turning far enough. Like the rear axle nut, you need to put a 3/4" torque wrench on the key and turn in from 12 to 2 oclock position. It may take around 220 ft/lbs. This will relax the mechanism for future key starts.

Sorry, just kidding.

That's how it works. Turn key to on, push button. Enjoy.
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