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Suzuka AP1 reporting from IN

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Old May 3, 2020 | 04:12 PM
  #11  
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Whew! I was feeling like a nag (but feel the correct filter is vital).

Engine Oil? Idea: start a thread and ask "What's the best engine oil for the S2000." Actually, please don't! Everyone has their favorite. Check oil consumption, though. Honda recommended every fuel stop for the very early cars and noted a quart/1000 miles was not excessive and some engine oil magically burns less of it.

Spec is 10W-30 or 5W-40. Dino or synthetic. Despite claims Amsoil (or Mobile-1) does not cure cancer or CORVID-19. I've been using Blackstone Labs oil analysis on my cars. All the samples are just telling me the wear in the engine is as expected or better and I can leave the oil in the engine longer than my change interval which is a year since I don't drive that many miles.

-- Chuck
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Old May 3, 2020 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck S
Whew! I was feeling like a nag (but feel the correct filter is vital).

Engine Oil? Idea: start a thread and ask "What's the best engine oil for the S2000." Actually, please don't! Everyone has their favorite. Check oil consumption, though. Honda recommended every fuel stop for the very early cars and noted a quart/1000 miles was not excessive and some engine oil magically burns less of it.

Spec is 10W-30 or 5W-40. Dino or synthetic. Despite claims Amsoil (or Mobile-1) does not cure cancer or CORVID-19. I've been using Blackstone Labs oil analysis on my cars. All the samples are just telling me the wear in the engine is as expected or better and I can leave the oil in the engine longer than my change interval which is a year since I don't drive that many miles.

-- Chuck

Ha! I'm not trying to get flamed for not using a search function. I was deciding between Royal Purple and Amsoil honestly, there really isn't a wrong answer. I figure I will be doing more changes due to time in the motor than actual use. I cant even get 3k miles in 3 months on personal car let alone the weekend car. If I could pick your brain for a second, would you even consider getting a bumper respray or just keep it original with rock chips? It can only be original once and it is an all matching numbers example.
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Old May 4, 2020 | 04:01 AM
  #13  
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I'll chime in and repeat this - check the engine oil levels a LOT. These cars tend to burn more oil than you are accustomed to and you can lull yourself into complacency if you don't make a point of checking it when you buy fuel After a while you will have a good sense of how much your car uses. Also, unless it is really really bad I would not repaint the bumper. Or, at least wait a year to see how you feel about it after a year of ownership.

Enjoy that beautiful car.
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Old May 4, 2020 | 04:32 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by rpg51
I'll chime in and repeat this - check the engine oil levels a LOT. These cars tend to burn more oil than you are accustomed to and you can lull yourself into complacency if you don't make a point of checking it when you buy fuel After a while you will have a good sense of how much your car uses. Also, unless it is really really bad I would not repaint the bumper. Or, at least wait a year to see how you feel about it after a year of ownership.

Enjoy that beautiful car.
You are speaking my language now, I like maintaining and keeping my cars in great condition. Hydraulic, brake and oil changes are being done this weekend. I am also going to do new rotors and pads since I believe they are still on the original from the factory. The paint isn't bad at all I'm sure I won't feel bad after the paint correction. I've always loved these and I'm happy to have this one in my garage.
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Old May 4, 2020 | 05:07 AM
  #15  
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Agree to not repaint unless absolutely necessary.

I bought the OEM front spoiler for my '06 car in 2015. Other than opening the large box to insure the parts were all there the spoiler sat in the box for another four years until I could get the front bumper restored -- it was a mass of stone chips well beyond the "touch-up" paint and skills I have. Last year, just before I replaced the roof that had a small tear, I had the front bumper professionally refinished to match the car and front spoiler. This required removal and disassembly of the bumper's fake intake vents, etc. I personally masked the VIN tag so it wouldn't be painted over. The body shop had the car for a week. All areas (hood/fenders, bumper, spoiler) match to my satisfaction. Paint lays differently on steel, aluminum, and plastic parts so even the same paint can look different. I'm sure I lost concours d'elegance points with the repaint but, in this case, it had to be done. The closest I've been to Pebble Beach was one of my houses in Ohio was on Pebble Beach Drive.

New OEM brake rotors and pads installed by the Honda dealer just before I bought the car at 38K miles in 2014. I'm a smidgen over 60K now. Brake calipers still looked horrible so I painted them black (not red!) so they don't show behind the wheels. More points lost.

I changed the brake hydraulics last spring but not to my complete satisfaction. I could barely get a gravity bleed at the left rear. Looking at either an extraction or pressure device to aid this so I can redo it again. Get or borrow the funnel (Leslie?) for the radiator coolant swap. Bleeding these systems are a PITA.

-- Chuck

PS: Leave the clutch fluid alone. That is, replace but don't bleed it. The clutch cycles its fluid back into the master reservoir so all you need to do is extract all that black dirty fluid (that turkey baster in the back of a drawer in your kitchen works well) and refresh with new fluid. Just do that a couple of times and you're good. Too many problems with air in the clutch otherwise. I believe @Billman250 has notes on it.

Last edited by Chuck S; May 4, 2020 at 05:13 AM.
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Old May 4, 2020 | 06:36 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Chuck S
Agree to not repaint unless absolutely necessary.

I bought the OEM front spoiler for my '06 car in 2015. Other than opening the large box to insure the parts were all there the spoiler sat in the box for another four years until I could get the front bumper restored -- it was a mass of stone chips well beyond the "touch-up" paint and skills I have. Last year, just before I replaced the roof that had a small tear, I had the front bumper professionally refinished to match the car and front spoiler. This required removal and disassembly of the bumper's fake intake vents, etc. I personally masked the VIN tag so it wouldn't be painted over. The body shop had the car for a week. All areas (hood/fenders, bumper, spoiler) match to my satisfaction. Paint lays differently on steel, aluminum, and plastic parts so even the same paint can look different. I'm sure I lost concours d'elegance points with the repaint but, in this case, it had to be done. The closest I've been to Pebble Beach was one of my houses in Ohio was on Pebble Beach Drive.

New OEM brake rotors and pads installed by the Honda dealer just before I bought the car at 38K miles in 2014. I'm a smidgen over 60K now. Brake calipers still looked horrible so I painted them black (not red!) so they don't show behind the wheels. More points lost.

I changed the brake hydraulics last spring but not to my complete satisfaction. I could barely get a gravity bleed at the left rear. Looking at either an extraction or pressure device to aid this so I can redo it again. Get or borrow the funnel (Leslie?) for the radiator coolant swap. Bleeding these systems are a PITA.

-- Chuck

PS: Leave the clutch fluid alone. That is, replace but don't bleed it. The clutch cycles its fluid back into the master reservoir so all you need to do is extract all that black dirty fluid (that turkey baster in the back of a drawer in your kitchen works well) and refresh with new fluid. Just do that a couple of times and you're good. Too many problems with air in the clutch otherwise. I believe @Billman250 has notes on it.
Haha love it, sucks neither one of us will hit concourse status. I work in Ohio so pebble beach drive might be as close as I get as well. So it sounds like you aren't a fan of the Turkey baster then gravity bleed while keeping the master cylinder topped off. I'm looking at replacing my rotors with some Hawk HP+ pads and DBA T3 rotors while running Motul brake fluid. I plan on the occasional weekend drive then I always go down to deals gap once a year to meet with some friends so I figure that set up should be more than enough. After some research I'm just going to some Amsoil oil, transmission fluid and their 75-110 rear diff lube.
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Old May 4, 2020 | 06:55 AM
  #17  
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Gravity bleeding my brakes worked after a fashion. All but the left rear got a good bleed. That one sat for a couple of hours with little coming out but all the brakes are firm. I still want to push more clean fluid thru all brakes. Still deciding on pressurizing the master cylinder or vacuum at the brake cylinders.

Been changing the clutch fluid as described annually. Surprising amount of black fluid extracted.

Your oil choices are fine. Just double check the differential oil is hypoid gear oil. It may all be (the Amsoil sitting here is.)

Plenty of traffic down to The Dragon from your region.

-- Chuck
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Old May 4, 2020 | 07:08 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Chuck S
Gravity bleeding my brakes worked after a fashion. All but the left rear got a good bleed. That one sat for a couple of hours with little coming out but all the brakes are firm. I still want to push more clean fluid thru all brakes. Still deciding on pressurizing the master cylinder or vacuum at the brake cylinders.

Been changing the clutch fluid as described annually. Surprising amount of black fluid extracted.

Your oil choices are fine. Just double check the differential oil is hypoid gear oil. It may all be (the Amsoil sitting here is.)

Plenty of traffic down to The Dragon from your region.

-- Chuck
I've always had luck using the vaccum at the brake cylinders, I'll go with your method for the clutch as well since you can't make an argument against tried and true methods. The rear diff oil is good to go. My buddy is a rep of theirs and just drop shipping me everything I needed. I just picked up the oil filters and crush washers from Honda that I ordered. Yep a lot of us midwesterners make our way down there, we have been going down for over 10 years now. We have all moved across the US and usually meet up and stay down at fontana for a weekend, I miss bringing the bikes down but this has to be the next best thing.
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Old May 4, 2020 | 07:43 AM
  #19  
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Beautiful find! I have been looking for a 02-03 Susuka Blue with the OEM Spoilers just like yours for the last several months since I sold my 3rd S2K (03 GPW/Tan) since 2006. I didn't see it on S2KI, CarGurus, Autotrader, and Craigslist. I hope you dont mind me asking where was it posted? Are other any other any additional sites I should be checking?
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Old May 4, 2020 | 07:50 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by AP1ZE1
Beautiful find! I have been looking for a 02-03 Susuka Blue with the OEM Spoilers just like yours for the last several months since I sold my 3rd S2K (03 GPW/Tan) since 2006. I didn't see it on S2KI, CarGurus, Autotrader, and Craigslist. I hope you dont mind me asking where was it posted? Are other any other any additional sites I should be checking?
I actually found mine on autotrader from a private seller. I used autotempest, and carguru as well. BAT has a Suzuka Blue with blue soft top that ends today as well.
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