Suzuka AP1 reporting from IN
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Joined: May 2020
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Yeah im curious to see what it goes for, it isn't far off from what I paid for mine at the moment. There was one at a lot in illinois that was missing the OEM spoilers but you can find those. This has the original glass all around, I jumped as soon as I saw it, put a deposit down to remove the ad, bought a plane ticket tuesday, flew out friday and drove it home saturday.
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 3,296
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From: Vermont
I will join Chuck again re clutch fluid. I make a habit of the turkey baster method each time I change the oil. If you let this go you start getting problems with clutch operation and leaking, If you stay on top of it, you don't have problems.
There is another thing clutch related to be aware of. Your car, mine as well, have very low mileage., But, they are nearly 20 years old. Its is not uncommon to have the clutch throw out bearing dry out. This can be a major PIA to fix. Sometimes you will start to notice stickiness when you are releasing the clutch pedal from the floor. Sometimes a bit of a rehab of the slave cylinder rod with the ball in the end, plus a little Honda grease, will fix this. Sometimes a little dab of grease on the tips of the clutch release fork where they contact the throw out bearing will help. But, sadly, sometimes you just need pull the transmission and replace the TOB and while you are in there consider replacing the pressure plate, the clutch disc, and maybe even the flywheel.
Also, if its me, I would check and adjust (if needed) the valve gaps promptly when I get a new S2k. And replace the spark plugs - with OEM.
I am a proponent of using OEM parts virtually all the time. Including the brakes by the way.
Make sure the tires aren't out of date and have decent tread. Rears where fast.
I would get an alignment done once you have the wheels and tires sorted. These cars seem particularly sensitive to good tires, with proper pressure, and a good alignment. Once you get it all up to snuff you will have a good baseline and you will have invested time into making the car your own.
You are going to LOVE this car.
There is another thing clutch related to be aware of. Your car, mine as well, have very low mileage., But, they are nearly 20 years old. Its is not uncommon to have the clutch throw out bearing dry out. This can be a major PIA to fix. Sometimes you will start to notice stickiness when you are releasing the clutch pedal from the floor. Sometimes a bit of a rehab of the slave cylinder rod with the ball in the end, plus a little Honda grease, will fix this. Sometimes a little dab of grease on the tips of the clutch release fork where they contact the throw out bearing will help. But, sadly, sometimes you just need pull the transmission and replace the TOB and while you are in there consider replacing the pressure plate, the clutch disc, and maybe even the flywheel.
Also, if its me, I would check and adjust (if needed) the valve gaps promptly when I get a new S2k. And replace the spark plugs - with OEM.
I am a proponent of using OEM parts virtually all the time. Including the brakes by the way.
Make sure the tires aren't out of date and have decent tread. Rears where fast.
I would get an alignment done once you have the wheels and tires sorted. These cars seem particularly sensitive to good tires, with proper pressure, and a good alignment. Once you get it all up to snuff you will have a good baseline and you will have invested time into making the car your own.
You are going to LOVE this car.
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 24
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I will join Chuck again re clutch fluid. I make a habit of the turkey baster method each time I change the oil. If you let this go you start getting problems with clutch operation and leaking, If you stay on top of it, you don't have problems.
There is another thing clutch related to be aware of. Your car, mine as well, have very low mileage., But, they are nearly 20 years old. Its is not uncommon to have the clutch throw out bearing dry out. This can be a major PIA to fix. Sometimes you will start to notice stickiness when you are releasing the clutch pedal from the floor. Sometimes a bit of a rehab of the slave cylinder rod with the ball in the end, plus a little Honda grease, will fix this. Sometimes a little dab of grease on the tips of the clutch release fork where they contact the throw out bearing will help. But, sadly, sometimes you just need pull the transmission and replace the TOB and while you are in there consider replacing the pressure plate, the clutch disc, and maybe even the flywheel.
Also, if its me, I would check and adjust (if needed) the valve gaps promptly when I get a new S2k. And replace the spark plugs - with OEM.
I am a proponent of using OEM parts virtually all the time. Including the brakes by the way.
Make sure the tires aren't out of date and have decent tread. Rears where fast.
I would get an alignment done once you have the wheels and tires sorted. These cars seem particularly sensitive to good tires, with proper pressure, and a good alignment. Once you get it all up to snuff you will have a good baseline and you will have invested time into making the car your own.
You are going to LOVE this car.
There is another thing clutch related to be aware of. Your car, mine as well, have very low mileage., But, they are nearly 20 years old. Its is not uncommon to have the clutch throw out bearing dry out. This can be a major PIA to fix. Sometimes you will start to notice stickiness when you are releasing the clutch pedal from the floor. Sometimes a bit of a rehab of the slave cylinder rod with the ball in the end, plus a little Honda grease, will fix this. Sometimes a little dab of grease on the tips of the clutch release fork where they contact the throw out bearing will help. But, sadly, sometimes you just need pull the transmission and replace the TOB and while you are in there consider replacing the pressure plate, the clutch disc, and maybe even the flywheel.
Also, if its me, I would check and adjust (if needed) the valve gaps promptly when I get a new S2k. And replace the spark plugs - with OEM.
I am a proponent of using OEM parts virtually all the time. Including the brakes by the way.
Make sure the tires aren't out of date and have decent tread. Rears where fast.
I would get an alignment done once you have the wheels and tires sorted. These cars seem particularly sensitive to good tires, with proper pressure, and a good alignment. Once you get it all up to snuff you will have a good baseline and you will have invested time into making the car your own.
You are going to LOVE this car.
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 3,296
Likes: 260
From: Vermont
My opinions?
Valve retainers can certainly be upgraded. I have not done mine. I don't plan to. Many folks here believe that its best to change them. The problem with the retainers is that if the car is mechanically over rev'd, (as opposed to running up to the rev limiter, which you can do all day long with no worries), the ap1 retainers will develop cracks that can lead to major disaster down the road. I am the only driver of my car. I will know if I have a mechanical over rev. If it happens, then I will probably change them. Its likely that the retainers will be the least of my problems if that happens. But, the point is, I know that if there is a mechanical over-rev I have to get in there and have a look see and probably change the retainers should be done at that point if the motor is still alive.
The timing change tension device is something that tends to go bad over time. Yes, if it goes bad, I will buy one from Billman rather then buy oem. But, unlike some (chuck I believe is one example), I see this as a situation where the old adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it" applies. So, its an individual decision.
If you will have someone else working on your car - do some real due diligence and find someone who is experienced with this particular car. Hard to find actually. Second best might be a good Honda motorcycle mechanic.
BTW - use the turkey baster on the clutch master cylinder, not the slave.
Valve retainers can certainly be upgraded. I have not done mine. I don't plan to. Many folks here believe that its best to change them. The problem with the retainers is that if the car is mechanically over rev'd, (as opposed to running up to the rev limiter, which you can do all day long with no worries), the ap1 retainers will develop cracks that can lead to major disaster down the road. I am the only driver of my car. I will know if I have a mechanical over rev. If it happens, then I will probably change them. Its likely that the retainers will be the least of my problems if that happens. But, the point is, I know that if there is a mechanical over-rev I have to get in there and have a look see and probably change the retainers should be done at that point if the motor is still alive.
The timing change tension device is something that tends to go bad over time. Yes, if it goes bad, I will buy one from Billman rather then buy oem. But, unlike some (chuck I believe is one example), I see this as a situation where the old adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it" applies. So, its an individual decision.
If you will have someone else working on your car - do some real due diligence and find someone who is experienced with this particular car. Hard to find actually. Second best might be a good Honda motorcycle mechanic.
BTW - use the turkey baster on the clutch master cylinder, not the slave.
Last edited by rpg51; May 4, 2020 at 01:11 PM.
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 736
Likes: 90
Thank you for the advice! Fluids are ordered and being delivered. I'm going to run everything OEM except for brake rotors and pads. I'm definitely going to be hitting the slave cylinder with the turkey baster and fresh fluid tonight. I plan on getting the valves checked as well although that's a little out of my comfort zone at the moment, would you recommend getting new retainers? I have read those are a weak point of the F20. The only other thing I was considering that isn't OEM is a aftermarket time chain tension, would that be a good move or not worry about it? Thank you guys for all your help this is greatly appreciated.
Even though you plan on keeping the car, keep a little handwritten logbook of your maintenance tasks and mileage. If you do ever go to sell it on, this establishes that you cared for the car and means a lot to serious buyers.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
My opinions?
Valve retainers can certainly be upgraded. I have not done mine. I don't plan to. Many folks here believe that its best to change them. The problem with the retainers is that if the car is mechanically over rev'd, (as opposed to running up to the rev limiter, which you can do all day long with no worries), the ap1 retainers will develop cracks that can lead to major disaster down the road. I am the only driver of my car. I will know if I have a mechanical over rev. If it happens, then I will probably change them. Its likely that the retainers will be the least of my problems if that happens. But, the point is, I know that if there is a mechanical over-rev I have to get in there and have a look see and probably change the retainers should be done at that point if the motor is still alive.
The timing change tension device is something that tends to go bad over time. Yes, if it goes bad, I will buy one from Billman rather then buy oem. But, unlike some (chuck I believe is one example), I see this as a situation where the old adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it" applies. So, its an individual decision.
If you will have someone else working on your car - do some real due diligence and find someone who is experienced with this particular car. Hard to find actually. Second best might be a good Honda motorcycle mechanic.
BTW - use the turkey baster on the clutch master cylinder, not the slave.
Valve retainers can certainly be upgraded. I have not done mine. I don't plan to. Many folks here believe that its best to change them. The problem with the retainers is that if the car is mechanically over rev'd, (as opposed to running up to the rev limiter, which you can do all day long with no worries), the ap1 retainers will develop cracks that can lead to major disaster down the road. I am the only driver of my car. I will know if I have a mechanical over rev. If it happens, then I will probably change them. Its likely that the retainers will be the least of my problems if that happens. But, the point is, I know that if there is a mechanical over-rev I have to get in there and have a look see and probably change the retainers should be done at that point if the motor is still alive.
The timing change tension device is something that tends to go bad over time. Yes, if it goes bad, I will buy one from Billman rather then buy oem. But, unlike some (chuck I believe is one example), I see this as a situation where the old adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it" applies. So, its an individual decision.
If you will have someone else working on your car - do some real due diligence and find someone who is experienced with this particular car. Hard to find actually. Second best might be a good Honda motorcycle mechanic.
BTW - use the turkey baster on the clutch master cylinder, not the slave.
That's great. It is a really good feeling to get a fresh start on maintenance needs. Changing all of your fluids now puts the car on your own maintenance schedule rather than the previous owner's. All unknowns now become known.
Even though you plan on keeping the car, keep a little handwritten logbook of your maintenance tasks and mileage. If you do ever go to sell it on, this establishes that you cared for the car and means a lot to serious buyers.
Even though you plan on keeping the car, keep a little handwritten logbook of your maintenance tasks and mileage. If you do ever go to sell it on, this establishes that you cared for the car and means a lot to serious buyers.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2020
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Crazy man I flew into DCA to pick this up in Springfield VA. I am from Cincinnati but my wife and I moved to Batesville a few years ago.
Joined: Mar 2018
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Springfield is just under 2 hours from here. I think I saw you'd already connected with some of the Cincy folks. You're around a good group of folks up there. You should look into some of the upcoming drives. The Dragon is coming up in less than 30 days... Pandemic willing...