I definitely would be interested. I think I understand it mostly but it will be useful to see what additional info you have.

Also, I have been able to force the car to always drive in open loop, in order to use the auto-tune to get the part-throttle cells tuned without having to fight the STFT.

 

A member today asked for the EMU software, its nigh on impossible to find it when you don't have a CD. After hours of searching i finally found it on the internet a while back.

It isn't even on the Trust/Greddy website

Choose 'SLOW' download to download for free. I have also included the 2.23 update too. To install navigate to the 'DISK' folder and run the setup from there, after this apply the 2.23update .

http://www.slingfile.com/file/6pgik0

 

i am extremely interested in this. i just ordered innovate WB and have zero knowledge on this. obviously i have started the process, so any info you have available would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

 

O2 feedback is a great feature and I have discovered stuff that isn't necessarily obvious (I'm sure a good portion Mark talks about in this secret document of his, LOL).

So release it already, Mark!

 

does some one what to host the word file as it has embedded screen caps.

I need to finish formatting the text to make it S2ki friendly and verify I have all of the pictures necessary up loaded to my album

In no specific order girls bodybuilding jujitsu and work have been killing my free time lately

 

Mugenrio you and I have some things in common

Ive been doing bjj off n on for 6 years (more off). I have a gym in my garage. Girls...... Eh have just 2. My Gf and my dog haha

Simone host the file!

 

Mugenrio you and I have some things in common

Ive been doing bjj off n on for 6 years (more off). I have a gym in my garage. Girls...... Eh have just 2. My Gf and my dog haha

Simone host the file!

 

GF well one that hopefuley will get serious...

and then 3 other ones. but cut them off some time a go now they pay for me when we grab lunch and stuff.

The file is just aboutn 800kb

 

can you host the file on drop box?

 

here is the txt ( may have s2ki format errors)

will check out drop box tonight



DO NOT USE The A/F feature to develop your initial tune.
DO NOT USE The A/F feature to develop your initial tune.
DO NOT USE The A/F feature to develop your initial tune.
DO NOT USE The A/F feature to develop your initial tune.
DO NOT USE The A/F feature to develop your initial tune.


The A/F feature of the ULT requires you to have your tune professional setup on dyno before using the A/F feature to fine tune the A/F at all times.
The A/F feature of the ULT requires you to have your tune professional setup on dyno before using the A/F feature to fine tune the A/F at all times.
The A/F feature of the ULT requires you to have your tune professional setup on dyno before using the A/F feature to fine tune the A/F at all times.


This A/F feature is to only be used on a car that has previously had the fuel trims properly tuned on a dyno to your appropriate maximum safe power with a given A/F.

The A/F feedback builds on properly tuned vehicle. The A/F will make adjustments as necessary in boost as necessary for changes in environmental condition where the adjustments made by the stock ecu temp and water compensation tables are not sufficient to keep A/F at the exact and ideal point. Also in a round about way the A/F feedback is performing a gear based A/F by keeping A/F in check despite the gear/load on the vehicle

As always commonsense prevails if you experience any issues or notice something that just does not seem right consult your tuner.

This DYI does not cover tricking the stock ECU into open loop by modifying the TPS voltage. This can vary greatly as boost vs TPS angle vary between setups and may me covered in a later write up but again is not covered in this DYI. DO not try and force the A/F to go into an area to far from stock A/F when the OEM ecu is in closed loop. You will be fighting each other.

Use this DYI at your own risk; I have made a huge effort to ensure everything is accurate however a single setting if set incorrectly can prevent the A/F feedback form working correctly and could even prevent your dyno tunes fuel trims from activating correctly.




To setup up the ULT for wideband feedback you must have the following parts/hardware

1) The “A/F Option Port Harness” Greddy part number 15900912.
NOTE White wire is 0-5V signal and Gray is your reference to ground.

2) A Wideband that has a 0-5V signal output. 0-1V wideband simulate narrowband will not work correctly with the ULT W/B feedback however the 0-1V output can be used to feed the stock computer and will allow you to remove the factory primary O2 sensor.

It is recommend to also have the Greddy pressure sensor as your ULT control pressure point as this provides a more stable and accurate tune than the OEM pressure sensor can provide.
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Removal of the factory Primary O2 sensor requires that a Resistor be wired into the OEM plug to simulate the Primary O2 sensors heater; otherwise you will get a CEL from just removing the Primary O2 sensor. One option instead of physically removing the OEM O2 sensor is to secure it up out of the way above the tyranny. Securing the O2 sensor above the tyranny does have its risks; that if you ever wanted to revert back to the OEM sensor it may not read correctly since it will be subject to water and the environment. However leaving the Primary o2 sensor plugged up does prevent you from having to wire in a resistor.

The other option is to leave the OEM Primary O2 sensor in the header/downpipe and drill and tap/weld on another bung for your wideband.
Make sure that the wideband and the primary OEM O2 sensor are not in line and are separated by at least 6” (the larger distance the better) and the wideband is before any sort of catalytic material.
As an example if your primary O2 sensor is bolted in from the top you can bolt in the wideband O2 from the side with a slight angle downward to improve ground clearance and orientate the O2 sensor so water will not collect in side of the O2 sensor.
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Here is an example of how to properly wire in a Wideband O2 sensor to the ULT using a PLX wideband unit. ( my preferred and recommend wideband unit)

NOTE:
1) The Capacitors (where and how they are connected)
2) Where the PLX and the ULT’s Reference ground is wired in.
3) The power spade must be connected to “true” switched power source
Your Wideband if using something other then PLX may or may not have these capacitors; the caps are used to filter out any signal noise if it exists.

Grounding the Gray wire on the A/F option port to the correct grounding location is critical.

While the PLX Unit does provide a GND pin in the analog connecter; grounding the A/F Greddy harness to the location described insures proper operation; as the ground in the analog connector is intend for the 3.3V+ if need to supply power to the older PLX gauges. ( do not use this for anything other than the older PLX gauges).

OPTIONAL: I have also shown where the 0-1V simulated narrowband can be interfaced with the OEM ECU ( Pin C16 Honda S2000) this requires that you cut the OEM wire and feed the 0-1 V signal to the stock computer. The original signal from the Primary O2 sensor is not used in this case and should be taped up/shielded to prevent this wire from making an electrical connection (ground or other wise). It is recommended to use a set of female and male quick connects to make this connection. ( Ask any stereo shop and they will have these and can also be found at Lows/RadioShack and at your local auto parts store in the electrical section. These connectors are normally uses as speaker connections.) The reason you want to use this type of connection is if you had a wideband fail you can quickly disconnect this wire to the stock ecu and force the stock ecu into protection/open loop mode.

THIS is not a parallel electrical connection; this is a cut and interface/feed connection.

NOTE the Picture states to put the A/F wideband plug into option port 1.
This plug can be placed in either port option however for these instruction it is assumed that the plug has been placed into option port 1.

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Open up the ULT software with the latest tune uploaded from the ULT installed in the vehicle.

Under the Unit menu at the top of the screen ensure that temp this is set in deg C.
Other wise the A/F feed back will not work correctly


Unit>>Temp>>C


Click on the Car ICON Parameter settings
And click on the Front Panel Tab

Like previously mentioned these instructions assume that you placed the W/B A/F port plug in option port 1.
Under the Option port 1 drop down select A/F Meter.
In the second drop down box select the Model of Wideband you have.
If not listed select other.
And then either verify or input the range your wideband can read for gasoline.
In the case of the PLX unit example; 10 to 20 is its maximum range. Check with the manufacture if using a different gauge/system then PLX. Just because the gauge reads a range does not mean the sensor stops at those max/min values.



Next click on the Map Select tab



Turn on I/J Map2
And Turn on A/F Target Map


Next Click on the A/F Target Tab

Setup as shown above.
Again the Input A/F select is set to Option port 1 per this example.
Even thought start time is set at 10sec it is assumed as the operator you know not to go into boost or an area where the A/F would be in operation until the car has fully warmed up. The feedback cycle and feedback amount can be adjusted as you see fit. However to hi of a feedback amount can cause overshooting and erratic A/F likewise setting Feedback Cycle time to low can cause erratic operation. From personal experience after A/F have been dyno tuned 110-100ms and .5% to 1% have proven to be the best setting to run with long term.
Also of note I have the TPS threshold set at 5% ( see note on “-“ in the A/F Target map section) This is to ensure that no madder what TPS angle I am at if for some reason I get into boost that the A/F feedback will attempt to keep A/F in check.


Click on apply and then OK.

You will now see your MAP Tree will have some additional option that were not visible before namely A/F target map and I/J Map #2


Before making any map adjustment to either the I/J Map2 or to the A/F target map make sure that the control points are identical. What I mean by control points is that the RPM points and the load/pressure points are identical between each of these maps.
This can easily be done by double clicking on I/J map 1 and clicking on the button and copying and pasting the load and RPM points from I/J map1 to I/J map 2 and the A/F target map.
While this is not absolutely required it makes it easer to correlate data points between the maps.

After copying the load points close I/J map 1 and Map 2.


If not still open double click on the A/ F Target Map


In this example you will notice that there is increased resolution just before 4000 RPMs which is where vtec is set in this example. This is to smooth out the A/F transition when going to the hi lob of vtec
VERY IMPORTANT: Notice the first row and first column. These cells have “-“ or the “minus” sign in them. When there is a “-“ placed in to a cell the A/F map will be ignored and no adjustments will be made by the ULT.
You must have a “-“ placed in the first row of cell to prevent the OEM ECU and the ULT from fighting each other during closed loop operation. Also important is to have pressure points that go above what you expect to see this is a built in protection in case you over boost and your tuner accidentally scaled your safety net to lean. The A/F feedback will richen up that area.< just another example why it is important to have your car setup by a professional.

In this example I am tuning the tip in at 0psi to be around 13.1 (OEM value) to 12.7 as one approaches redline. In some cases there may not be sufficient TPS voltage/angle to put the stock computer into open loop so chose you’re A/F in there area carefully other wise you will get an over rich condition CEL and the A/F feedback and the ULT will be fighting each other. Tricking the stock computer into open loop at a different point the stock is beyond the scope of this guide to install the A/F feedback feature. Consult your local tuner if you need to add in this function.

Also of note if using the Greddy pressure sensor; to use it to its full potential you will need to select the Greddy pressure sensor as your pressure control point using the drop down selection. This will change the scale to be read in voltage and not psi. so you will need to know the formula for the pressure sensor. P(psi gauge)=(14.508*voltage)-21.762.
If you originally generate your map in another pressure control points verify that voltages are correct for each row for the intended pressure you wanted in that row. Relative pressure was used in this example only to relay the basic understanding of this map again to ensure the best possible tune you will need to select Greedy P.Sensor [voltage] as your load point if using the Greddy pressure sensor.

Some final notes
Assigning the A/F feedback map and the Secondary I/J map to a dip switch along with the way the 0-1V output from the wideband is wired in to the stock ECU allows you to have a failsafe system. If anything fails you can switch the dip switches and your tune returns to the main tune that was tuned on the dyno ( I/J map1 only) and or disconnect the O2 voltage feed to the stock PCM forcing it into open loop failsafe mode. This does not mean go into fails safe mode and then get into boost. This is just to allow you to drive home if there was a failure of some sort that was not catastrophic.

Consult your local tuner to get further explanation on this process on fail safes procedures.
This is possible because in this example/DYI the A/F feedback will only modify the I/J map 2 thus allow you to keep your dyno tuned fuel curve intact which should only be in I/J map1.

Wrap up

You are done setting up the Wideband feed back for the ULT.
Save this flash to a new file name than the one you started with and upload it to the ULT.
And go for a drive.

The ULT will now start to populate the secondary injector map (I/J #2) with fuel adjustments to hit your desired A/F based on the values you have set in the A/F Target Map.
It is possible to see as much as much as plus or minus 10 to 20% difference in some extreme cases between middle of summer (Hot and Hi Humidity) and winter (Cold and Low Humidity) however normally for day to day you should only see 1 to 7% differences if your base tune and your stock ECU fuel compensation tables are working in there ideal capacity. If for some reason the stock ecu make a STFT or a LTFT adjustment (which does effect open loop in boost A/F before intergrading the feedback) the ULT will now correct this if the stock adjustment puts your actually A/F in a different spot then the ideal tuned A/F and what you have set in the A/F feedback map.

The secondary map will only be populated visually ( SW version 2.2) with values when you have your lap top connected and running real time. Early versions of the SW would populate the secondary map at all times regardless if the Laptop was connected.

When driving around if you have map tracing on you can see the highlighted cells in the secondary I/J map being adjusted by the A/F feedback control loop.

After taking a drive don’t forget to upload/flash the ULT before disconnecting the lap top to ensure the corrections just made by the A/F feedback will be retained in the ULT.
It may take multiple drives/pulls through multiple gears to hit every expected cell and have the A/F normalize.

Despite the secondary map only receiving visual changes when the laptop is connected when operating the car with out the laptop connected the A/F feature still continues to operate as expected when the lap top is not in the car

Using this feature I have not had to adjust any of my fuel curves manually for over 2 years now even between summer and winter days.


Again
DO NOT USE The A/F feature to develop your initial tune

This A/F feature is to only be used on a car that has previously had the fuel trims properly tuned on a dyno to your appropriate maximum safe power with a given A/F and with a properly scaled safety net to pressures above what you will normally expect to see on a daily bases with appropriate timing retard.

The A/F feedback builds on properly tuned vehicle. The A/F feedback will make adjustments as necessary in boost as necessary for changes in environmental condition where the adjustments made by the stock ecu temp and water compensation tables, and ST/LTFT are not sufficient to keep A/F at the exact and ideal point.

As always commonsense prevails if you experience any issues or notice something that just does not seem right consult your tuner.