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2012 Track Junkie Thread

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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 08:41 AM
  #41  
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Got my front bumper pulled off so I can try this brake ducting. It seems fairly straightforward, but the AP2 ducts design would be a little bit more difficult than the AP1 foglight covers for drilling a hole and attaching a flange. I was considering attaching a duct such as this on the inside of the bumper behind the plastic support and running the ducting through the same place in the fender liner as Rob, but I think the hose may be snaked/kinked too much. What do you guys think?



Something like this if you can see it from my Picasso artwork

Old Jan 16, 2012 | 08:52 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Uncoolron
Come to think about it, you are right. I was wondering myself what is the correlation of axle being a little lose to the handling being twitchy since wheel hub is being held by control arms. And the axles are free to move laterally. I dismissed the bearing as being faulty because I just had them replaced (prematurely) early last year. And I do not hear squeaking or rubbing from the wheels area. One other thing I could point to be the cause would be installing one of the tires in the wrong direction, because they directional tires and only about 400 miles on them.
But wasn't one of your race tires mounted backwards not your street tires. By the way thanks for the offer on the trailer what hitch are you running on your car?
Old Jan 16, 2012 | 03:46 PM
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clarkster,

I think your cooling ducts would work fine in that location. There's a lot of air pressure on the nose of the car at 70+ mph so you don't have to have a direct shot to the brakes.
Old Jan 16, 2012 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by robrob
clarkster,

I think your cooling ducts would work fine in that location. There's a lot of air pressure on the nose of the car at 70+ mph so you don't have to have a direct shot to the brakes.
Rob is correct. I followed his how to for my AP2 and it has worked fine. I now change rear pads more often than front.
Old Jan 17, 2012 | 05:13 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by VPS_AP1
Originally Posted by Uncoolron' timestamp='1326409267' post='21311850
Come to think about it, you are right. I was wondering myself what is the correlation of axle being a little lose to the handling being twitchy since wheel hub is being held by control arms. And the axles are free to move laterally. I dismissed the bearing as being faulty because I just had them replaced (prematurely) early last year. And I do not hear squeaking or rubbing from the wheels area. One other thing I could point to be the cause would be installing one of the tires in the wrong direction, because they directional tires and only about 400 miles on them.
But wasn't one of your race tires mounted backwards not your street tires. By the way thanks for the offer on the trailer what hitch are you running on your car?
I was running a square set up with non directional R comp tires, basicaly it was an idiot proof tire set up, so no you can not mount them backwards.

I'll send you a pic of my tire trailer when I get home tonight. My tire trailer is one of those Harbor Freight set up with Chase Race trailer hitch ( http://www.chaserace.com/s2k.php). We have to hook up the trailer hitch first then wire you up for the trailer lights. it will probably take 2 hours to do it.
Old Jan 17, 2012 | 06:53 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by robrob
clarkster,

I think your cooling ducts would work fine in that location. There's a lot of air pressure on the nose of the car at 70+ mph so you don't have to have a direct shot to the brakes.

Originally Posted by Budman05' timestamp='1326766749' post='21323114
Originally Posted by robrob
clarkster,

I think your cooling ducts would work fine in that location. There's a lot of air pressure on the nose of the car at 70+ mph so you don't have to have a direct shot to the brakes.
Rob is correct. I followed his how to for my AP2 and it has worked fine. I now change rear pads more often than front.
Awesome, thanks! Rob, your tutorials are awesome and very helpful Thank you for assisting the community. I am also considering another alternate mounting location.

Rob, what sort of fasteners (diameter/length) did you use to attach your splitter? How heavy would you estimate it is? I went and looked at a sheet of Alumicore yesterday at the sign store and although it is very sturdy it also was heavier than I was expecting.
Old Jan 17, 2012 | 06:56 AM
  #47  
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Hey Matt, are you still considering installing an oil cooler?
Old Jan 17, 2012 | 08:42 AM
  #48  
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Rob, what sort of fasteners (diameter/length) did you use to attach your splitter? How heavy would you estimate it is? I went and looked at a sheet of Alumicore yesterday at the sign store and although it is very sturdy it also was heavier than I was expecting.
My plywood splitter is pretty heavy, I would guesstimate about 12 lbs. I don't remember what size fastener I went with. I simply took a stock bottom bumper fastener into a large Ace Hardware. They had the same type fasteners and I went with the next size up diameter and went about 1 inch longer. It's better for them to be too long than too short. Long makes it much easier to start the thread after putting the bolt through the splitter, bottom plastic and front bumper. I also added two fasteners to the rear-center area of the splitter for a little more support.
Old Jan 17, 2012 | 10:58 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Budman05
Originally Posted by robrob' timestamp='1326761182' post='21322886
clarkster,

I think your cooling ducts would work fine in that location. There's a lot of air pressure on the nose of the car at 70+ mph so you don't have to have a direct shot to the brakes.
Rob is correct. I followed his how to for my AP2 and it has worked fine. I now change rear pads more often than front.
Got any pictures of your setup Lou?
Old Jan 17, 2012 | 03:34 PM
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clarkster, have you seen this thread on the racing & comp forum on an AP2 brake duct kit?
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/911...s/page__st__25



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