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Old Jan 8, 2006 | 06:03 PM
  #31  
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Summer of 2006. Party at Skip's!

Great work

You need to put at least one silly picture in your gallery. Tradition dictates that you need to stick your head out of some weird place and make a face.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 09:31 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by FF2Skip,Jan 8 2006, 11:32 AM
I used too much mud in the corners(wall-to-ceiling). I feel like I'll be in a Snickers' commercial...

"Not going anywhere for a while?"

wow, looks awesome skip!

if you're putting crown moulding in the wall-ceiling joint, you don't have to worry too much about a squared mud edge! The crown moulding will cover it. And if you've never done crown moulding before, you're in for a reaaal treat.... backcutting that stuff by hand is no fun, but it's the only way to do it
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 09:59 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by animeS2K,Jan 10 2006, 01:31 AM
wow, looks awesome skip!

if you're putting crown moulding in the wall-ceiling joint, you don't have to worry too much about a squared mud edge! The crown moulding will cover it. And if you've never done crown moulding before, you're in for a reaaal treat.... backcutting that stuff by hand is no fun, but it's the only way to do it
Thanks, Chris.

No other room in the house has moulding, but yes, I was thinking of using it for a couple of reasons. One was to cover my previous work( ) and the other was to add a little something to the room. I think I might even consider some kind of ceiling treatment- faux beams or something like that.

I have a pretty nifty sliding compound miter saw. Only problem is that I'm sure the walls aren't perfectly square. I need about 70' of moulding. Stuff ain't cheap neither. Stainable was about $21/12 ft.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 10:05 PM
  #34  
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Ah yes, but even with a miter saw it's not going to help you...

You'll need a slim blade hacksaw. You see, first you cut with the miter saw (got a dewalt compound miter saw here) and then you need to cut back, following the design of the moulding with the hacksaw... Took me a little while to figure out exactly what the hell I needed to do (and that was even with direction from the neighbor - a master carpenter), but it's unfortunately not as simple as a straight cut for those inside corners.

Good luck with it
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 10:12 PM
  #35  
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Thanks for the heads-up. It'll help to keep me patient.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 10:23 PM
  #36  
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ok - i might be wrong and my technique might be flawed (or rather underutilized), but it allowed me to flush the pieces together rather nicely, only having to cut one piece for the inside corners... Do some googling.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 04:28 AM
  #37  
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It's actually not that hard. You make a 45 degree cut and then back cut using a coping saw along the profile of your cut. You then run a piece all the way to the corner and slide the back cut piece up against that one. The pieces will slide right together no matter what the angle of the corner is. I used my band saw last time because I'm a power tool nut but swinging 16 foot pieces of wood around so you can back cut on the band saw isn't that easy either.

Use paint grade and then you can use caulk to hide any bad joints.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 11:02 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by speed_bump,Jan 10 2006, 08:28 AM
It's actually not that hard. You make a 45 degree cut and then back cut using a coping saw along the profile of your cut. You then run a piece all the way to the corner and slide the back cut piece up against that one. The pieces will slide right together no matter what the angle of the corner is. I used my band saw last time because I'm a power tool nut but swinging 16 foot pieces of wood around so you can back cut on the band saw isn't that easy either.

Use paint grade and then you can use caulk to hide any bad joints.
yes, a much better description than I gave, but exactly what I did... I also read that when joining two pieces mid-wall you should cut them at a 45deg angle (on the face of the moulding) so that the joint won't be as obvious with expansion and contraction.

Then fill with caulk
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 11:28 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by animeS2K,Jan 10 2006, 03:02 PM
I also read that when joining two pieces mid-wall you should cut them at a 45deg angle (on the face of the moulding) so that the joint won't be as obvious with expansion and contraction.

Then fill with caulk
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 11:47 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by animeS2K,Jan 10 2006, 03:02 PM
yes, a much better description than I gave, but exactly what I did... I also read that when joining two pieces mid-wall you should cut them at a 45deg angle (on the face of the moulding) so that the joint won't be as obvious with expansion and contraction.

Then fill with caulk
This part I knew. atsselfonback:

I read that you take cheap baseboard, flip it upside down, and secure it just below the bottom line of your crown moulding. It gives a more substantial look and permits you to nail in anywhere(baseboard to wall; moulding to baseboard). My co-worker says he's seen that and it doesn't look bad.
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