MidWest S2000 Club Kansas, Nebraska, the Dakotas, Missouri, Iowa, and Minnesota

LIFE! .....Kinda

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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 08:21 PM
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Default LIFE! .....Kinda

Ok, So I got the engine put back together by the book, and when I go to start it, it tries really really hard, but just wont run. I did put oil in the cylinders which is affecting it obviously, but it will only run with my dad standing by the air filter and spraying starting fluid in it. It has a very deep tone in the exhaust and the exhaust gases are a thick white smoke which smells horrible. I'm guessing this is because of the oil.

On a good note,
I turned the engine by hand several times and it felt very smooth and all parts seemed to be in order. Nothing sounds wrong in the engine when the starter runs it either.

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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 04:48 AM
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How much oil did you use? Kinda sounds like fouled plugs. Pull 'em/check 'em/clean 'em and this should get it to fire. If it doesn't work but seems to have helped just repaet the process til it works. Make sure you have the exhaust routed outside and you are working in a well ventilated area. Be careful with ether! Way too many horror stories include the use of that stuff.
I know these things can be very frustrating. You think everything is just fine til you crank it. You go back and quadruple check everything and it checks ok but still won't hit. Been there- done that. In fact: I have just pulled the head on my project AGAIN and finally decided this time that its time to go with a bigger mill altogether.

Good luck. Sounds like a simple fouled plug issue to me.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 05:13 AM
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I pulled the plugs and they were coated in oil. How should I clean them off? My dad said I could use b12. They are iridium plugs if that makes any difference.

If you need any help putting that head back on, I'd be glad to come help. I know what I'm doing now. ha ha

Well, I should wait till it runs to make that statement, but I'm positive that everything is ok with the engine. It's so smooth sounding when I turn it over.

The hardest thing I had to do on this project was set the valve clearance.
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 05:25 AM
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Media blast the plugs, or if you don't have access to that, new plugs. Nothing else will truly clean them. Did you use assembly lube? If so, no need for all the oil in there above the piston.

Careful with starting fluid on a fuel injected car... I have seen intake manifolds in pieces because of it.

Have you checked leak-down? If your rings are not seated/positioned right, you could be pressurizing the crank-case forcing oil into the cylinder. Pull one plug, put the gauge in there and turn it over. Make sure the number (IDK, but maybe 120-140#) in each cylinder. If it is uneven, you need to dig deeper.

Hope one of those helps...
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Gamble,Nov 5 2009, 06:13 AM
I pulled the plugs and they were coated in oil. How should I clean them off? My dad said I could use b12. They are iridium plugs if that makes any difference.

If you need any help putting that head back on, I'd be glad to come help. I know what I'm doing now. ha ha

Well, I should wait till it runs to make that statement, but I'm positive that everything is ok with the engine. It's so smooth sounding when I turn it over.

The hardest thing I had to do on this project was set the valve clearance.
If it starts with starter fluid that means that there is somthing wrong with the fueling system.

First, unplug one or all of the injector clips and insert a light bulb to see if the ECM is firing them. I just buy a bulb at the hardware store with long wire leads or you can buy a noid kit like below.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028QGU6C

If they are firing make sure when you turn on the key the pump fuel pump is priming (Runs for a few seconds)

Finally try and start the car again w/o starter fluid. Then pull a plug and see if it is wet, I would guess what you see as oil is probabbly fuel.

If there is fuel on the plugs then I would assume you timing is off. To test take out the number one plug (Closest to the front of the car) stick a very long screw driver or rod in it and hand turn the crank until it comes to it's highest point (Topdead Center) then check your reference marks on the crank pulley.

If the timing is correct check the cams and make sure you put the intake and exhaust cams in the correct postion.

Let me know if you get stuck

Scott
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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 01:58 PM
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I'm positive the timing is right. I don't have the gauge that I need for a compression test, but I'll get one if I don't figure this out soon.
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 08:50 AM
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I still can't get it to run. With the help of a little starting fluid, I got it to sit and run at like 200 rpm for like 5 seconds, but then it died. I hear a bit of a clatter sound coming from the back of the engine now too. My dad says maybe it's a rocker arm that I didn't get adjusted quite right.
I'm afraid to mess with it anymore with the clatter. If someone could possibly come help me troubleshoot it, that'd be awesome. If not, I'll probably end up taking it to a shop.
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 11:31 AM
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Look in time?
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Old Nov 7, 2009 | 04:17 PM
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Done!

I was talking to Scott and he mentioned a ground wire that I had forgotten. I hooked it up and the car started right up and runs perfectly. After disconnecting the battery, the CEL went out and it hasn't come back on.
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