So I got a blinking cel. read the code and it was 300,302. Random/Multiple Misfire, Cyl2 Misfire. Went to AutoZone and purchased a Distributor cap, Rotors, Wirez, and Spark Plugz. After 4.5 hrs, I know it shouldnt have taken this long but long story short, it did. Installed the Rotor, Dist & all Wires. Then on to the plugs. Counting from left to right, shortest to longest, I had no problem with the first three. On to the fourth and final plug. Put the socket in the tried to untighten it and the damn thing would not move. I cant loosen it at all. Used a socket and a pole for better force, put in approx 100lbs to push it and it still wont budge at all. This thing is just stuck FOREVER. I am afraid that I will break something.

So, What can I do? And also, is the rightmost cylinder 2 or 4, is it 1324 or 1342?
If it is 1342, it still wont solve my problem since it's the cyl2 that's bad.

 

Cylinders are numbered from the "fan belt" to the flywheel. Closest to "fan belt" is 1, furthest away is the largest number. V-type engines alternate from side to side, because the cylinders are staggered. Doesn't matter what the orientation of the engine in the chasis is, this is the way they're numbered.

I cannot answer your question directly, but you should be able to answer it yourself with this information.

I'd get a good penetrating oil: Kroil, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc. I'd fill that spark plug well with it and let it sit overnight. May or may not help, but what do you have to lose?

Tomorrow, I'd try to shock the plug into turning about 1/4 turn. Hit the handle sharply, don't apply a steady force. If it moves, spray the penetrating oil again and let it work. The one thing you don't want to do is pull aluminum threads out of the head along with the spark plug.

 

Unfortunately, the penetrating lubes won't make it past the sealing washer of the plug until it's broken loose.
I'd stop by a radioshack or electronic or even some better auto parts stores, and buy a can of refrigerant type cold spray. These are used in testing circuit boards for shorts/failures.
Spray it at the plug only as best you can on a stone cold engine. Use a lot, then use some more. This thermal shock and cold shrink of the plug can usually bust it loose.
Once it busts loose, then spray pb blaster in the well and let it soak to lube the threads before trying again.
Good luck.

 

red is correct . One closest to the timing belt is cyl1 , then 2, 3, 4


The 1342 you mention is the firing order of the distributor.




Freezing it like mentioned above could work. Worth a try. If not I would seek a shop before you ruin the head. might require removing the head.

 

Can you get an impact on the plug wrench? Excessive leverage won't always get them free, but they can be "broken" free with an impact. Worth a shot.

 

Sorry for not posting a update sooner, I was sick and it just been too busy. I like to thank everyone for their ideas. Anyway, after replacing the rotors, dist, wirez and 3 of the 4 plugz. I drove it to work and back. the feel is pretty good. Eventually, the cel went away. I'd consulted with a couple of other people regarding the last plug. Here's the conclusion. With just 1 old plug in there and now it drives fine. I am going to leave everything the way it is. I dont really want to try to remove the spark plug and get into a situation where it stripped or broke, I will have to spend lots of time/$ fixing. I am just gonna leave it and play dumb until something else happen in the future. I might trade this in to get a different beater in the future. Who knows. So, again, thank you all for contributing.

 

good call. If you end up selling it let me know, If your willing to sell it for an appropriate value knowing its problem id be interested in buying ;-)