So I have a hand-me-down Poulan 2150 16" chain saw with very low hours on it. (Maybe 5 hrs). I've been using it, or rather trying to, after Irene knocked down some trees. I got a brand new chain, but on some larger cuts (bucking) the chain slows and stops, but the engine's still running, albeit straining. The blade isn't pinched, it's just that a full width log provides enough friction to slow and stop the chain without stalling.
Is it safe to assume that it's a problem with the clutch? And isnt' it odd to have a clutch issue if the saw's only been used for so few hours? I don't know what else it could be, but I've never worked on a chain saw other than the chain I just swapped. I made sure nothing's caught in the clutch drum, but other than that, I can't see anything wrong with it.

The saw sat unused for about 6 years or so, maybe more, but it starts and runs fine. I'm just perplexed that I can't manage to cut through anything other than smaller branches.

Is there a clutch adjustment I'm missing? Something else? Or could the clutch really be shot already? I don't really want to sink much money into this thing if it's going to be a PITA.

Any help is appreciated.

 

As im sure you've gathered, chainsaws use a centrifugal clutch. It isnt uncommon for bar oil to get into the clutch, and cause slipping. even if it seems void of oil, the clutch compound may absorb oil and reduce its effectiveness even tho it appears dry. Also, weak or worn out clutch springs may be the culprit here. new springs, clutch pads, and thorough cleaning of the clutch basket should fix anything wrong here.

this may not solve your problem though. are you familiar at all with chain sharpening? an old, broken-in chain will cut better and faster than a brand new chain. when buying a new chain, even if it comes "presharpened" it is very important to set the rake, head height, and angle of the cutter teeth yourself. if the rake (or the gap between the top of the depth-tooth and the cutter tooth) is set too large, the tooth will take too large of a bite of wood and cause the chainsaw to slow, stall, or kick. Larger chainsaws can get away with a large rake because the power and momentum will allow larger bites to be taken, but smaller chainsaws should have the rake lowered accordingly.

remember, the safest way to cut with a chainsaw is at full throttle, and just guide the saw at its own pace.

 

not too sure BUT this is the best place to ask your question

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/

 

Thanks guys. I'll ask on the Arborist site. Those guys look like they're seriously into their trees and equipment.

It's quite possible that some bar oil got in the clutch assembly. This saw seeps bar oil like crazy, both running and when off. Internet searches indicate that other Poulans of that model line seep oil as well, but not sure if it commonly affects the clutch. I'll see what I can do to check the clutch springs, but I'd think if they were worn, the clutch would engage the chain at idle but grip fine at speed, not the other way around. However, if they're stiff or stuck, maybe only one side is engaging when I rev the engine.

I've never sharpened a blade, but I've cut several smaller branches/limbs with this 'new' chain as well as one or 2 logs. So it's not super new. The replacement chain has the stock rake and cut depth, and claims not to need anything prior to use, but I didn't check it. I'd think the engine would stall out, though, if too many teeth were taking too big a bite, not keep running with the chain stopped.

Anyways, thanks for answering. The sooner I figure it out, the sooner the saw can go back to the shed instead of stinking up the garage with oil smell.

 

On bigger cuts the saw will bind if you take a straight cut. Too much drag on the chain. Move blade up and dowmn while cutting so you are taking a smaller cut.

 

Depending on the size of the cut you can always V your way in knocking out areas as you go to assure you don't get to deep and bind up.