^Yup. The clunk started last summer.

 

Lift .435/.435, duration 290°, duration @ .050 = 252° - considered a 3/4 camshaft. It's an 1800 3 main bearing block. Right now I'm running a stock 18 head, trying to save my 15 race head for a 1600 race block. It pulled strong. I had it just over 100 mph at Lime Rock last weekend.

 

Bad swaybar end link maybe?

 

might be bad bushing in the top hat or maybe a lil spray of WD40 on the top hat bushings would work.

 

I read about this. Some people say they cant even see anything wrong with it. I know I couldn't see anything wrong with mine. I hate just replacing parts to see if it fixes the problem.

 

Could be. You can't really see that from under the car.

 

If a swaybar link is bad enough to make noise, you will probably be able to feel the play by hand. Grab link and try and wiggle it around. If you can feel any play, its bad.

Same goes for most suspension stuff making noise. Jack wheel off ground, support safely, then grab tire and try and wiggle it around. Left and right, up and down. With a lot of force. You may be able to feel the play that is making the noise. Then you can look and listen, try to see if play is in a ball joint, in a control arm bushing, a wheel bearing, etc.

 

Thanks Car Analogy. I gave all the bushings a pretty good going over with a very large screw driver and a pry bar. I couldn't find any movement in the any of the joints beyond some very minor flexing of the rubber bushings. I then set a jack stand under the lower knuckle and lowered the car onto the stand enough to compress the spring a bit and relieve some of the tension that can hide worn bushings when the suspension is just hanging. Everything seemed ok in that configuration as well. I even tried the nuts and bolts to see if any of them were loose. I did not try the top shock nuts though. I may give them a twist and see what happens.

 

Back on topic. I picked up a used BYS seat rail to lower the seat. Will install this weekend. Its an '06, so I have to rig something up for the airbag switch.

Currently have just 1/2" clearance noggin to soft top rail. Can't see most important part of the tach. Can't see traffic lights. I look down at the rear view mirror, which obstructs much of my view out windshield.

So any improvement will be welcome. Eventually plan to do more radical lowering of stock rails and seat bottom. But that will be a big project, and using the BYS rail will allow me to take my time modding stock rail.