Lol...no, sorry. I'll try to remember the next time I talk to him

 

Swap your CV bells, ladies and gents. All vibration is gone! The boot clamps are reusable, so don't cut them when disassembling!

 

I know when I went to the evasive motormounts my car vibrated a bit more.

I am thinking I may need new struts soon. Getting that popping sound when I do a three point turn every so often.

I really don't want to spend a lot of money, but to get the right stuff justs costs...

 

The CV bell swap is free, with the exception of new axle flange bolts/nuts. It takes a while, though.

Long story short, here's the order I would use if I was doing it again -

1. Put rear of car on jack stands and remove rear wheels

2. Loosen the axle flange bolts and the axle hub nuts. You'll probably need a large cheater bar and a friend to step on the brakes...even then, mine took about 350 ft-lbs to loosen up.

3. Remove rear calipers & rotors. Tie calipers out of the way so they're not hanging by the brake lines.

4. Remove lower bolts for rear dampers, the inner tie rod bolts (mark you adjustment setting if you don't plan to do an alignment after you're done), and the inner bolts of the upper control arm. The knuckle should flop outward at this point.

5. Remove the axle flange bolts/nuts and use a mallet to drive the axle splines out of the hub...carefully. With a bit of finesse, the axles will come out.

6. Remove the large inner boot clamps, swap bells from side-to-side, regrease and reinstall in the opposite order.

7. Reinstall everything in the opposite order. Use new axle flange bolts/nuts...they're stretch bolts and I wouldn't trust them to hold up to the torquing time and time again. They're about a $0.80 each. The large axle nuts are less important to replace, but I like to use fresh ones.

8. Enjoy a vibration free drivetrain (assuming you don't have other issues!).

 

Might I add to #7? Make sure you torque the axle nuts down to 220 ft-lbs before (re-)staking them.

 

Just to conclude this, all of the vibration is gone after replacing an engine mount that was nearly torn in half. Torn engine mounts are easy to diagnose because they are fluid filled.

Unfortunately, the drivetrain has developed a loud clunk and seems to have a lot of backlash.. Both the diff and trans spit out a small amount of metal shavings when I change their fluids. Guess an AP1 drivetrain can only hold up to so many drag starts and race events... oh well.