New motorcycle rider question
Thread Starter
Former Moderator
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 13,831
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From: Paradise Valley, AZ miss NYC
Have my license, passed the MSF course. So I am looking to get a used first bike. Local guy is selling a 99 ZX-6 with less than 2200 miles for under $5k is that a good deal. Clean title no accidents and a few cosmetic mods. Any advice would be appreciated.
Oh yeah I think I can talk him down to about $4k he really wants to get rid of it.
Oh yeah I think I can talk him down to about $4k he really wants to get rid of it.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 864
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From: Midlothian
If it looks good, it sounds like a good deal.
You find a lot of sportbikes with very few miles on them in the paper.
People buy them, then scare the hell out of themselves and then park them.
or
They realize how uncomfortable they are to ride very far.
Be careful, have fun.
You find a lot of sportbikes with very few miles on them in the paper.
People buy them, then scare the hell out of themselves and then park them.
or
They realize how uncomfortable they are to ride very far.
Be careful, have fun.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 0
From: The BadLands
Congratulations!! Sounds like a decent price. It's a very good bike with a lot of performance. Make sure that you have the bike looked at by a good mechanic before you drop the money. Here's some things you can check yourself.
Tires: Tread depth of course! If it near bald pass it up. If there is a lot of rubber balled up on the edges of the tread immediately look at the under side of the pegs. If they are scratched up bad pass it up. Any cupping in either of the tires is a sure sign of misalignment possible frame damage , pass it up!
Chain: Look at the rear sprocket and see that each tooth is complete with no rounding or uneven wear. Look at the alignment marks on the swingarm, if the axle is more than 3 marks rearward from center mark, it's a sure bet you going to need a new chain. Again look at the rear sprocket. See if the U between the teeth are uniform and not lopsided. If they are it's a sure bet that you'll need a new front and rear sprocket. Check the chain play. Put the bike on the center stand and about the center of the swingarm push up on the chain. It should have about 1 1/2 inch of play. Make sure it is not rusty and has a fine coating of grease.
Rear Shock: With the bike still on the center stand look at the rear shock. Should be no leakage of any kind. Slider should be clean and no rust. Check the shock linkage for side play. Just grab it and try to move it from side to side. If there is, pass! Look at the shock piggyback reservoir and make sure that it is clean with no leaks. Take the bike off the center stand and sit on it. Bounce up and down! If it returns as fast as you let it go, your going to need a new shock. They aren't cheap! Last grab ahold of the shock body and move it side to side. There should be no play!
Front Forks: Inspect the front sliders. Make sure that there are no dents, dings, scratches or rust. This is a big expense if you have to replace or have repaired. Check around the fork seals. This is where the slider meets the lower body. Make sure that there is no visible fluid leakage. Check the top side and underside steering head fork clamp bolts. make sure that the bolts are not rounded in anyway. Sure sign that the bike has been lowered or raised on the forks. Usually this means that the bike has been lowered for drag racing. Put the bike on the center stand again. Strattling the front wheel grab both forks at the lowest part and pull towards yourself and push away. If there is any play any at all I suggest that you pass up the bike. It indicates worn steering head bushings. (expensive to replace)
Brakes: As this bike is equipped with some of the best brakes you can get on a middleweight you'll need to check the system through. First look at the reservoir and make sure the fluid is clean and light colored. You can see this through the plastic. Squeeze the brake handle and make sure it doesn't bottom to the handle bar. If it is equipped with adjustable levers place it on it most outward setting and repeat the process. Look at the lines along with the fittings, make sure that there are no leaks of any kind. Follow the lines down to the junction and the rotors. Look at the rotors and make sure there is no rust, wavy marks or bluing. Sure sign the bike has been raced! Do the same for the rear.
Check all the various cosmetic areas of the bike for cracks, scratches, fresh paint etc. If the bikes not on the center stand put it there. Look at the oil indicator window on the left lower side of the engine. Make sure that the oil is at least half way in the window. Look at the color it should be a golden or amber color. If it is black, the bike is probably long overdue for an oil change. Also could indicate poor maintenance. If all these things check out now it's worth riding. Be careful! Check the cylinders and see if they are warm. If they are then let the bike cool all they way down. Start the bike, make sure that it does so easily, with minimal choke. Once warmed up, check the throttle for play, no more than about 1/3 inch. You can do this by blipping the throttle lightly. Don't go over about 3k rpm! See if the bike is returning to normal idle without a drastic drop in rpm below it idle rpm. It should carborate cleanly. No stutters, pops, or delays. Place you hand on the end of the exhaust and blip the throttle once or twice. Make sure the system is scavenging well. No water vapor coming from the end of the pipe. Swing a leg over and check the clutch engagement. Do a normal through the gears acceleration. Check for consistent engagement from clutch and gears. If it seems funny or harsh when shifting, just pass it up!
If all this checks out you've probably come acrossed a cherry. Anyway, just some things to check on your own. If you've found anything wrong with 2 of the things I've mentioned you really need to consider finding another bike. These are the most important thing because they have to do with the running gear of the bike. If they're bad it's dangerous and costly to repair. If you want anymore advice just ask!!
Cheers
Jeff
Tires: Tread depth of course! If it near bald pass it up. If there is a lot of rubber balled up on the edges of the tread immediately look at the under side of the pegs. If they are scratched up bad pass it up. Any cupping in either of the tires is a sure sign of misalignment possible frame damage , pass it up!
Chain: Look at the rear sprocket and see that each tooth is complete with no rounding or uneven wear. Look at the alignment marks on the swingarm, if the axle is more than 3 marks rearward from center mark, it's a sure bet you going to need a new chain. Again look at the rear sprocket. See if the U between the teeth are uniform and not lopsided. If they are it's a sure bet that you'll need a new front and rear sprocket. Check the chain play. Put the bike on the center stand and about the center of the swingarm push up on the chain. It should have about 1 1/2 inch of play. Make sure it is not rusty and has a fine coating of grease.
Rear Shock: With the bike still on the center stand look at the rear shock. Should be no leakage of any kind. Slider should be clean and no rust. Check the shock linkage for side play. Just grab it and try to move it from side to side. If there is, pass! Look at the shock piggyback reservoir and make sure that it is clean with no leaks. Take the bike off the center stand and sit on it. Bounce up and down! If it returns as fast as you let it go, your going to need a new shock. They aren't cheap! Last grab ahold of the shock body and move it side to side. There should be no play!
Front Forks: Inspect the front sliders. Make sure that there are no dents, dings, scratches or rust. This is a big expense if you have to replace or have repaired. Check around the fork seals. This is where the slider meets the lower body. Make sure that there is no visible fluid leakage. Check the top side and underside steering head fork clamp bolts. make sure that the bolts are not rounded in anyway. Sure sign that the bike has been lowered or raised on the forks. Usually this means that the bike has been lowered for drag racing. Put the bike on the center stand again. Strattling the front wheel grab both forks at the lowest part and pull towards yourself and push away. If there is any play any at all I suggest that you pass up the bike. It indicates worn steering head bushings. (expensive to replace)
Brakes: As this bike is equipped with some of the best brakes you can get on a middleweight you'll need to check the system through. First look at the reservoir and make sure the fluid is clean and light colored. You can see this through the plastic. Squeeze the brake handle and make sure it doesn't bottom to the handle bar. If it is equipped with adjustable levers place it on it most outward setting and repeat the process. Look at the lines along with the fittings, make sure that there are no leaks of any kind. Follow the lines down to the junction and the rotors. Look at the rotors and make sure there is no rust, wavy marks or bluing. Sure sign the bike has been raced! Do the same for the rear.
Check all the various cosmetic areas of the bike for cracks, scratches, fresh paint etc. If the bikes not on the center stand put it there. Look at the oil indicator window on the left lower side of the engine. Make sure that the oil is at least half way in the window. Look at the color it should be a golden or amber color. If it is black, the bike is probably long overdue for an oil change. Also could indicate poor maintenance. If all these things check out now it's worth riding. Be careful! Check the cylinders and see if they are warm. If they are then let the bike cool all they way down. Start the bike, make sure that it does so easily, with minimal choke. Once warmed up, check the throttle for play, no more than about 1/3 inch. You can do this by blipping the throttle lightly. Don't go over about 3k rpm! See if the bike is returning to normal idle without a drastic drop in rpm below it idle rpm. It should carborate cleanly. No stutters, pops, or delays. Place you hand on the end of the exhaust and blip the throttle once or twice. Make sure the system is scavenging well. No water vapor coming from the end of the pipe. Swing a leg over and check the clutch engagement. Do a normal through the gears acceleration. Check for consistent engagement from clutch and gears. If it seems funny or harsh when shifting, just pass it up!
If all this checks out you've probably come acrossed a cherry. Anyway, just some things to check on your own. If you've found anything wrong with 2 of the things I've mentioned you really need to consider finding another bike. These are the most important thing because they have to do with the running gear of the bike. If they're bad it's dangerous and costly to repair. If you want anymore advice just ask!!
Cheers
Jeff
Thread Starter
Former Moderator
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 13,831
Likes: 2
From: Paradise Valley, AZ miss NYC
Wow JRM thanks for all the advice. The owner gave me the name of the Kawasaki dealer that services the bike and says he never does anything himself. He has all the paperwork and the dealer said that it's a good deal. Always garaged (that seems to go without saying in NY though), but I am going to take a look at it this weekend and I'll remember to check everything you listed. So I guess it's agreed that the price is acceptable.
Also he says he has a Muzzy exhaust and Jet kit that he will throw in. What the hell is a jet kit?
Also he says he has a Muzzy exhaust and Jet kit that he will throw in. What the hell is a jet kit?
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,533
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From: The BadLands
The jet kit will eather richen or lean out the carbs to allow the engine and pipe to run at it peak performance. If you want to put the jet kit in have the dealer do it. It's worth the effort also. Proper jetting not only allows the bike to run at peak effiency but will allow it to run cooler. In layman terms it will produce more horsepower!! the jet kit would be used in conjunction with the Muzzy pipe! It sounds like you might have a cherry here. Make sure that a compression cheak is made of each cylinder. It's easy to do and only takes about a half an hour. It is a fair price also!
the jet kit would be used in conjunction with the Muzzy pipe! It sounds like you might have a cherry here. Make sure that a compression cheak is made of each cylinder. It's easy to do and only takes about a half an hour. It is a fair price also!
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 17,288
Likes: 39
From: Nashville
I don't think they even make a decent "beginner" bike anymore. Everything is sooooo damned fast.... I used to have a GPZ305 (they only made them about 2 years in 1982-1983 or so).. it weighed nothing, ran the
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 389
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From: Ashland VA
turbo_ pwr; I had a 93 ZX-6 and put 17K miles on her without a single problem. It's a a great bike, and not too different from my current VFR. I think JRM gave you all the advice that you should need so far as to the items to look out for. Enjoy!
