Normally I would say Tct but if you've already tried that fix it is most likely Valve related. If you have an intake the ticking can be alot louder because it can be magnified through the throttle body. At least that was my findings. Just my $.02

 

Yup yup. Gotta Fujita Intake on it. Good two cents.

 

Sounds good! Hope to hear some good results. Thanks

 

The ticking can also be louder with aftermarket exhaust manifolds(headers), due to the thinner piping thicknesses.

 

Ok, here is the result: The valve adjustment DOES reduce the ticking noise to something minimal, which I would now consider normal. I did not drive long, but I think the noise is gone. I can still hear the noise a bit, but now that I have played with the adjustment, I understand that the noise comes from the clearance between the valve stem and the screw. It makes the same noise when I moved the parts by hand as the one I was hearing.

I also checked my valve retainers (AP1), and change the spark plugs (insulation was severely leaking). I am all good to go. I will install AP2 retainers later on this year, just to be safe.

I did not have to use the valve cover gasket set that I bought because mine was fine, so it is for sale for whoever wants to open their cover!

 

Ok, here is the result: The valve adjustment DOES reduce the ticking noise to something minimal, which I would now consider normal. I did not drive long, but I think the noise is gone. I can still hear the noise a bit, but now that I have played with the adjustment, I understand that the noise comes from the clearance between the valve stem and the screw. It makes the same noise when I moved the parts by hand as the one I was hearing.

I also checked my valve retainers (AP1), and change the spark plugs (insulation was severely leaking). I am all good to go. I will install AP2 retainers later on this year, just to be safe.

I did not have to use the valve cover gasket set that I bought because mine was fine, so it is for sale for whoever wants to open their cover!
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A number of reasons can cause a tick that is somewhat steady, mostly notable at idle, if you have a cai, header etc you hear the valves more also the iac valve ticks pretty loud the TCT is a different sound all together, easily check the map sensor voltage more than 1.05v at idle, you need a valve adjustment, and should always replace your valve cover gasket when you remove the valve cover

 

A number of reasons can cause a tick that is somewhat steady, mostly notable at idle, if you have a cai, header etc you hear the valves more also the iac valve ticks pretty loud the TCT is a different sound all together, easily check the map sensor voltage more than 1.05v at idle, you need a valve adjustment, and should always replace your valve cover gasket when you remove the valve cover
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Cool, I'll check the map sensor voltage and go from there. Good advice. Thanks for the tip.

 

Ok, here is the result: The valve adjustment DOES reduce the ticking noise to something minimal, which I would now consider normal. I did not drive long, but I think the noise is gone. I can still hear the noise a bit, but now that I have played with the adjustment, I understand that the noise comes from the clearance between the valve stem and the screw. It makes the same noise when I moved the parts by hand as the one I was hearing.

I also checked my valve retainers (AP1), and change the spark plugs (insulation was severely leaking). I am all good to go. I will install AP2 retainers later on this year, just to be safe.

I did not have to use the valve cover gasket set that I bought because mine was fine, so it is for sale for whoever wants to open their cover!
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Thats awesome. Sounds like you got a lot accomplished. I glad to hear the valve adjustment helped. Did you do all of this yourself??

 

Thats awesome. Sounds like you got a lot accomplished. I glad to hear the valve adjustment helped. Did you do all of this yourself??
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Yes, I did it myself. Nothing complicated if you follow the PDF valve adjustment procedure I found on this forum. It took me about 3 hours total, and I feel a lot better now. No special tools mandatory: just a torque wrench, 0.008 to 0.012" shims and a basic tool box (Mine: the Stanley bought at Walmart for 98$ a few years ago). The valve adjustment tool (10$ on amazon) DOES make the job easier and faster. Do it yourself, it is easy and you will know what is in your engine.
I suggest you buy a Valve cover gasket before you do the job, because if any of your gasket is damaged, you will need to replace it. (I happen to have 1 for sale, since my gaskets were fine... Unopened. It is an Apex (Check Parts Geek.com). I sell it for 20$ + shipping from Texas. It comes with all the grommets, everything is still sealed.