The dealer didn't give me wheel lock keys either, they had to order a new set and install them for me.

 

I think he just needs the special "key" to remove each of the wheel locks that he already has. His was a used S2000 with the locks on already but no key. I think your dealer got you the whole set, one wheel lock lug for each wheel (ie. 4) plus the "key".

 

Yeah, but they didn't give me the key for the 4, and they couldn't find it either. They had to order a new set (4 new lock nuts and 1 key) since a universal wheel lock key was $150 or something really stupid. The new set of wheel locks would have been $50.

 

OK, I get it.
MARKETING!

 

bunch of clowns, they forgot my antenna and wheel locks, who knows what else they forgot.

Good thing I got the locks for free or I would have been pretty grumps

 

haha I'm so lazy, but I need to get so many things taken care of, none of them all too pressing tho

-vin etching, they gave me that fancy form, but never actually did the vin etching.

-that damn deceleration noise. I wont get this fixed, because I can't leave my car with them for more than a day (since I'm 18 they wont provide me a loaner, and I can't rent a car). Maybe I'll get this done once I get a bike.. but that wont be til 2004.

-plastic window... hopefully what striker recommended will work for me.

-rattling issue in the area where the two latches hold down the soft top.

-the missing wheel lock key. they'll have to order me a new one I guess.

-car stalls at any temperature below -15 when i start it (I now plug it in at any temp below this, so its been plugged in a lot lately ). I must start it with applying gas. I could start my Civic at -40 without even plugging it in, and with regular dyno oil, and it would work like a champ. whats the deal with the s2000.. or mine particularily.

None of these issues are really a "big" deal to me.

 

This a characteristic of this car. Many have reported it. Plugging it in is no big deal if it's not your power. The engine will love you for it and will live longer if it's plugged in whenever it's cold (less cold start wear). If you're paying for the power, then get an outdoor timer and have it come on 3-4 hours before you drive it. Also, if you have it plugged in, you almost get instant heat for the interior. Try to plug it in whenever you can. There's no shame in making your car's life a bit easier.
Have you considered changing to 5W30 synthetic for the winter? It'll crank over a lot easier.
If you apply gas when you start it, it will never "learn" to overcome this behavior. If you let it die a few times, it "should" learn to adjust its idle mixture and throttle position and eventually will start even when very cold. My car has been known to start with no problem down to -20*C without plugging in AFTER I let it learn. It'll have this peculiarity every season about the same time. Some years, it learns quicker than in other years.

 

I figured that 10W30 synthetic should still work great at these temperatures... given the pouring point of synthetic is better... I usually get Mobil 1, but this time around I tried a full Esso synthetic. I'm going to try Mobil 1 on my next change, and see if I notice a difference between the two.

 

Dyl:

If you need help on the window /clutch issues feel free to call me , I talked to michelle and Honda Corp and I can give you contacts here in YYC , grant at Crowfoot Village is an awesome tech , thumbs up!

Jai