Kwando
Hey Kwando,
I'm curious on what kind of grill do you have? It looks like a billet grill. Looks good. Do you have heating problems? With the clear headlights your car looks bad as hell.
Will
I'm curious on what kind of grill do you have? It looks like a billet grill. Looks good. Do you have heating problems? With the clear headlights your car looks bad as hell.
Will
I'm pretty sure it's the coastal metals grill, group buy going on now.
While the air flow is probably very good, I'm reluctant to put anything that blocks air flow on the car, especially if you take it to the track.
While the air flow is probably very good, I'm reluctant to put anything that blocks air flow on the car, especially if you take it to the track.
Kwando does have the Coastal metals grill. I also have one, but in Black. Not sure which would look better on my car, but I just got a good deal on mine so...
I got mine to protect the radiator, as mine was really taking a real beating. Not sure about the track issue, I've been to the track once with it and didn't notice any difference. That said, even coastal metals says that it does reduce the airflow to some degree...
I got mine to protect the radiator, as mine was really taking a real beating. Not sure about the track issue, I've been to the track once with it and didn't notice any difference. That said, even coastal metals says that it does reduce the airflow to some degree...
A few notes about cooling...
1. The "bars" have a pretty course granularity. If you put on an accurate water temp gauge (say digital...), you would see quite a variation in temperature when the stock display shows "3 bars".
2. Cooling under peak conditions have nothing to do with the thermostat. Once the thermostat is open (or just removed...) the maximum cooling capability has to do with the radiators ability to exchange heat, which is directly related to air flow, coolant flow, and the radiator/coolants ability to transfer heat. A "cooler" thermostat like the Spoon or Mugen will open sooner, bringing the radiator "on-line" at cooler temperatures. If your cooling system is operating at less than maximum capacity, this would keep the thermostat open longer, and make your car run cooler.
3. Related to the above, anti-freeze makes a pretty poor cooling substance. It can increase the boiling temperature, reduce the freezing temperature, and provide lubrication which is why it is used. Running less than factory recommended anti-freeze, and possibly putting in an additive like "red line water wetter" can help your cooling system dump more heat under peak conditions. Never add more than the recommended amount of anti-freeze. A definite case of more *not* being better.
So I reiterate... If you are planning on doing long-ish track sessions, working the car hard, at altitude, at high ambient temperatures, you might consider removing the radiator guard before the track session. And maybe add a bottle of water wetter to the cooling system.
1. The "bars" have a pretty course granularity. If you put on an accurate water temp gauge (say digital...), you would see quite a variation in temperature when the stock display shows "3 bars".
2. Cooling under peak conditions have nothing to do with the thermostat. Once the thermostat is open (or just removed...) the maximum cooling capability has to do with the radiators ability to exchange heat, which is directly related to air flow, coolant flow, and the radiator/coolants ability to transfer heat. A "cooler" thermostat like the Spoon or Mugen will open sooner, bringing the radiator "on-line" at cooler temperatures. If your cooling system is operating at less than maximum capacity, this would keep the thermostat open longer, and make your car run cooler.
3. Related to the above, anti-freeze makes a pretty poor cooling substance. It can increase the boiling temperature, reduce the freezing temperature, and provide lubrication which is why it is used. Running less than factory recommended anti-freeze, and possibly putting in an additive like "red line water wetter" can help your cooling system dump more heat under peak conditions. Never add more than the recommended amount of anti-freeze. A definite case of more *not* being better.
So I reiterate... If you are planning on doing long-ish track sessions, working the car hard, at altitude, at high ambient temperatures, you might consider removing the radiator guard before the track session. And maybe add a bottle of water wetter to the cooling system.
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