Clear coat applied to old headlights?
Has anyone seen or tried this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNNMj0gGbA
Tools/Supplies Needed:
-800 grit wet/dry sandpaper (if your headlights are severe)
-1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-bucket of soapy water
-isopropyl/rubbing alcohol
-clean lint free cloth
-tape
-paper
adhesion promoter
-lacquer/clear coat
Procedure:
-if you decided to remove your headlights, start with that step first (headlight removal varies between makes/models of vehicles)
-wash the headlights thoroughly to ensure no contaminants will get into the wet sanding process
-tape off around the perimeter of the headlight lens or vehicles paint to protect it (optional)
-ensure the lens is always well lubricated during the wet sanding process using the soap water
if your headlights are severely hazy/foggy, wet sand starting with 800 grit and finish with 1000 grit
-if headlights are mildly hazy/foggy, start and finish wet sanding with 1000 grit sand paper
-once satisfied, wash the headlight again to ensure there are no contaminants which would affect the lacquer/clear coat
-once headlight is dry, wipe it down with isopropyl/rubbing alcohol
-tape off the areas you do not want any lacquer/clear coat on
-wipe headlight lens down again with isopropyl/rubbing alcohol, do not touch the lens with your hands (oil from your skin can cause imperfections when apply the lacquer/clear coat)
use the adhesion promoter to ensure there will be maximum adhesion when applying the lacquer/clear coat
-once adhesion promoter has setup, then go ahead and apply the lacquer/clear coat
-lacquer/clear coat can be applied in 2 coats if you are not planning on wet sanding afterwards
-if you are planning on wet sanding to a polish afterwards, apply 3 coats to ensure there is enough material for the next process
-wet sanding tutorial located here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBENX1uvZak
be sure to remove any paper or tape after about an hour of setup time
-let the headlight fully harden in the sun for at least 24 hours before the wet sanding and polishing stage
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNNMj0gGbA
Tools/Supplies Needed:
-800 grit wet/dry sandpaper (if your headlights are severe)
-1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-bucket of soapy water
-isopropyl/rubbing alcohol
-clean lint free cloth
-tape
-paper
adhesion promoter
-lacquer/clear coat
Procedure:
-if you decided to remove your headlights, start with that step first (headlight removal varies between makes/models of vehicles)
-wash the headlights thoroughly to ensure no contaminants will get into the wet sanding process
-tape off around the perimeter of the headlight lens or vehicles paint to protect it (optional)
-ensure the lens is always well lubricated during the wet sanding process using the soap water
if your headlights are severely hazy/foggy, wet sand starting with 800 grit and finish with 1000 grit
-if headlights are mildly hazy/foggy, start and finish wet sanding with 1000 grit sand paper
-once satisfied, wash the headlight again to ensure there are no contaminants which would affect the lacquer/clear coat
-once headlight is dry, wipe it down with isopropyl/rubbing alcohol
-tape off the areas you do not want any lacquer/clear coat on
-wipe headlight lens down again with isopropyl/rubbing alcohol, do not touch the lens with your hands (oil from your skin can cause imperfections when apply the lacquer/clear coat)
use the adhesion promoter to ensure there will be maximum adhesion when applying the lacquer/clear coat
-once adhesion promoter has setup, then go ahead and apply the lacquer/clear coat
-lacquer/clear coat can be applied in 2 coats if you are not planning on wet sanding afterwards
-if you are planning on wet sanding to a polish afterwards, apply 3 coats to ensure there is enough material for the next process
-wet sanding tutorial located here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBENX1uvZak
be sure to remove any paper or tape after about an hour of setup time
-let the headlight fully harden in the sun for at least 24 hours before the wet sanding and polishing stage
I don't follow that exact procedure, but I've recleared headlights many times. Works great. I even half ass the process, mine is a 3 step process, mask off area arount light if it's still on the car, sand down nice and smooth, spray clear coat. Optional that I have done if the finish came out crappy was wet sand and buff.
headlight need to be treated like paint, wax it every so often. I never waxed a couple sets I did and it started hazing or what have you like a year or two later. I'm sure the quality of the clear coat makes a difference too. I just used whatever rattle can I had in the garage.
headlight need to be treated like paint, wax it every so often. I never waxed a couple sets I did and it started hazing or what have you like a year or two later. I'm sure the quality of the clear coat makes a difference too. I just used whatever rattle can I had in the garage.
Absolutely DO NOT do it with spray paint. Unless you live in a very mild climate, it won't last. In TX, that crap will last maybe a few months at best.
Go to an auto body supply store and buy true automotive grade urethane clear coat. Spray it on with a spray gun. Most of the other steps listed will work fine, just substitute the crappy spray paint.
I did this on my tsx and will do it on my s2k soon. Didn't even use adhesion promoter. Auto grade Urethane clear coat sticks to anything. Just prep it well and make sure it's clean.
Go to an auto body supply store and buy true automotive grade urethane clear coat. Spray it on with a spray gun. Most of the other steps listed will work fine, just substitute the crappy spray paint.
I did this on my tsx and will do it on my s2k soon. Didn't even use adhesion promoter. Auto grade Urethane clear coat sticks to anything. Just prep it well and make sure it's clean.
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ProStreetDriver
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Jul 14, 2014 09:29 AM







