Brake pedal feel
#11
#12
It travels a few inches before I have ANY brake input or pedal resistance at all.
There's some slack built into the system and some can be safely removed. Get under the dashboard with your flash light and press the brake pedal with your little finger (that's all it takes). You should see the pedal contact the aft end of the master cylinder and then the master cylinder start to move. The distance the pedal has to move before it starts to move the master cylinder can be shortened if needed. There are complete threads on this.
-- Chuck
#13
Really? A few inches?! The pedal only moves a few inches before it hits the floor.
There's some slack built into the system and some can be safely removed. Get under the dashboard with your flash light and press the brake pedal with your little finger (that's all it takes). You should see the pedal contact the aft end of the master cylinder and then the master cylinder start to move. The distance the pedal has to move before it starts to move the master cylinder can be shortened if needed. There are complete threads on this.
-- Chuck
There's some slack built into the system and some can be safely removed. Get under the dashboard with your flash light and press the brake pedal with your little finger (that's all it takes). You should see the pedal contact the aft end of the master cylinder and then the master cylinder start to move. The distance the pedal has to move before it starts to move the master cylinder can be shortened if needed. There are complete threads on this.
-- Chuck
#14
I recall the magic tool is a 14m open end wrench to back out the lock nut. Adjust the rod with your fingers (only) until it just touches the piston. A mm slack is better than pushing the piston. A wearable "head" light helps to keep both hands free. Hardest part is getting out from under the dashboard.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
#15
I recall the magic tool is a 14m open end wrench to back out the lock nut. Adjust the rod with your fingers (only) until it just touches the piston. A mm slack is better than pushing the piston. A wearable "head" light helps to keep both hands free. Hardest part is getting out from under the dashboard.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
#17
If the pedal rod is touching the end of the piston you should start getting resistance to more pedal pressure (use your fingers). Ya don't get any brake pressure until there's resistance to pushing the cylinder piston. Air in the system is a major suspect.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
#18
Moderator
Consider it's the pads? I know when I ran carbotechs the pedal was rather squishy. When I switched to Hawk DTCs it was a lot firmer, but the pad material was definitely the cause in my case.
#19
2005
It has been bled 4 times now with no change in pedal feel.
I'm running the Hawk Street/Race pad which is pretty much a DTC-30 pad.
There is about two inches of pedal travel that equate to virtually no brake response. Then the pedal firms up like a normal pedal and it is rock solid with very good modulation. I need that dead space to go away.
There is about two inches of pedal travel that equate to virtually no brake response. Then the pedal firms up like a normal pedal and it is rock solid with very good modulation. I need that dead space to go away.