Apparently, I'm told...and this is all second hand since I have no first hand experience with this problem...that the front castor adjustment bolt rusts together with the sleeve in the lower control arm bushing. Below are pictures of the Powerflex replacement bushing and their stainless steel adjustment bolt. Over $400 in parts plus installation that requires removing the lower control arm.

Can the bolt be freed with some rust penetrant like WD-40 or PB Blaster? Or is bushing replacement the only alternative? Honda appears to only sell the bushing as part of the lower control arm which is about $350 each. The adjustment bolts are only $60 for both wheels...but not stainless.

So...will rust penetrant help?

 

That and the sleeve gets bound in the rubber too.

 

I would spray PB and use an impact gun to take off the bolt.

Also, there's no need to spend the $$ on the Powerflex stainless cam bolt. Just buy the Powerflex bushing and a new Honda cambolt. Grease up the sleeves before installing and you're good to go. Save your money.

 

Sometimes you can punch out the bolt with a deadblow hammer and a brass punch. Draw the lock nut flush with the tip of the bolt. Then give it a few precise whacks dead in the middle. It will free up the bolt 60% of the time.

 

mugen and spoon sell compliance bushings that are similar to stock but claimed to be stiffer

 

Yes, go with the Mugen bushing. Its like $100. If its really rusted in place, no amount of penetrant will free it. You will need to cut it out. But not all of them are frozen. Mine weren't ('06, 85k miles, North East US roads).

So cjeck first before you go buying everything. See if you can remove the bolt. MARK THE POSITION OF CAM WASHERS FIRST, as removing this bolt will mess up your alignment.

 

My left was! :

The result is -1.7° negative camber instead of -1.9° and stuck at 7.2° castor.