Mugen Type S Pads or Spoon Pads - Need Advice
12-09-2018, 09:17 PM
#31
Thread Starter
1 man method with pushing fluid via the pedal has always worked for me. Its fast and easy.
Gravity method works well too. I use it when I have time to let one axle drip while I move on to some other task.
As long as you're performing either method correctly, you'll get the same result.
I would remove the dirty fluid from the reservoir via vacuum pump or turkey baster first. Then refill before starting. That way you're not wasting new fluid by trying to push the old reservoir fluid out.
1L works just fine. Buy an extra 0.5L bottle if you're not sure. If you're new at it, you will use more fluid to get it thoroughly exchanged.
Once opened, just use the whole bottle. Once the seal is broken, moisture will slowly degrade the fluid while it sits on a shelf.
I've used ATE with good results with track use. Also Castrol GT-LMA. And Valvoline Dot4 synthetic when I was in a pinch and needed a "department store" available fluid while at the track already.
Motul certainly works. I've never out-paced ATE...so...never tried Motul.
Gravity method works well too. I use it when I have time to let one axle drip while I move on to some other task.
As long as you're performing either method correctly, you'll get the same result.
I would remove the dirty fluid from the reservoir via vacuum pump or turkey baster first. Then refill before starting. That way you're not wasting new fluid by trying to push the old reservoir fluid out.
1L works just fine. Buy an extra 0.5L bottle if you're not sure. If you're new at it, you will use more fluid to get it thoroughly exchanged.
Once opened, just use the whole bottle. Once the seal is broken, moisture will slowly degrade the fluid while it sits on a shelf.
I've used ATE with good results with track use. Also Castrol GT-LMA. And Valvoline Dot4 synthetic when I was in a pinch and needed a "department store" available fluid while at the track already.
Motul certainly works. I've never out-paced ATE...so...never tried Motul.
Not sure if I can get ATE blue locally. Motul RBF is available off the shelf so I may as well go with that. Need to replace my clutch fluid as there is debris in the master cylinder. I've got a vacuum pump. I'll give that a try. Getting under my car is a bit of a pain since I don't have a nice low profile trolley jack to get underneath the centre of the car and lift it easily high enough to get onto jack stands. Next investment....
01-07-2019, 12:53 AM
#32
Thread Starter
I installed my new Stoptech 309's last week. I cleaned the rotors off with sand paper and carb/brake cleaner. Then I drove it up to 60mph then down to about 10 mph and repeated this quite a few times. Unfortunately I couldn't get all the way up to 60 or more mph due to the area I drove in and slow people everywhere...
Eventually the scary "almost no brakes" feeling subsided and after each hard braking event I could feel more bite. Must have done approximately 10-12 hard brake events by the end of it. This is apart from the many other normal braking up to a light or stop street...
I am impressed thus far. The fitment was spot on! Funny thing I noticed was the EBC Yellow pad on the front left was more worn than the right side...how come?
EBC Yellows at the rear still have a decent amount of chunk left to them.
Eventually the scary "almost no brakes" feeling subsided and after each hard braking event I could feel more bite. Must have done approximately 10-12 hard brake events by the end of it. This is apart from the many other normal braking up to a light or stop street...
I am impressed thus far. The fitment was spot on! Funny thing I noticed was the EBC Yellow pad on the front left was more worn than the right side...how come?
EBC Yellows at the rear still have a decent amount of chunk left to them.
01-08-2019, 02:51 PM
#33
If your pads are wearing unevenly, your pins may be stuck or sticking.
I always take apart the caliper brackets, clean up the pins (use a wire wheel or sand paper if needed...or buy new hardware), and re-grease with silicone paste or high temp caliper grease.
Don't use anti-seize of any sort...as it is not a lubricant for sliding parts.
I always take apart the caliper brackets, clean up the pins (use a wire wheel or sand paper if needed...or buy new hardware), and re-grease with silicone paste or high temp caliper grease.
Don't use anti-seize of any sort...as it is not a lubricant for sliding parts.
01-10-2019, 01:15 AM
#34
Thread Starter
If your pads are wearing unevenly, your pins may be stuck or sticking.
I always take apart the caliper brackets, clean up the pins (use a wire wheel or sand paper if needed...or buy new hardware), and re-grease with silicone paste or high temp caliper grease.
Don't use anti-seize of any sort...as it is not a lubricant for sliding parts.
I always take apart the caliper brackets, clean up the pins (use a wire wheel or sand paper if needed...or buy new hardware), and re-grease with silicone paste or high temp caliper grease.
Don't use anti-seize of any sort...as it is not a lubricant for sliding parts.
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