Ohlins DFV questions. Thinking about making the 12K/10K swap.
11-06-2017, 10:05 AM
#11
I'm running Tanabe 30.4mm sway bars front and rear with 10/8 Öhlins.
I hardly feel any roll at all and balance seems pretty good on most tracks, wouldn't hurt with a bit more front tire in some corners though (225/255 setup).
I hardly feel any roll at all and balance seems pretty good on most tracks, wouldn't hurt with a bit more front tire in some corners though (225/255 setup).
11-06-2017, 10:33 AM
#12
I have a MY00 and went straight to the SakeBomb Garage Ohlin setup with 11k/11k springs. They claim to have changed the valving so my situation may not completely apply to you. I was concerned about oversteer and general looseness on the track but have been really happy with the balance. I just went square with 255/255 on 17x9 wheels and was again concerned about developing oversteer. But instead there's just more front grip now - and while sometimes the rear becomes loose, it's never a surprise - always something I was expecting given the situation. Plus it's easy to countersteer and drive through it. This is with stock MY00 bars.
On the street, I found that small bumps are not that much different than the stock suspension. But big bumps are indeed noticeably firmer. For me, it's ok, and my wife has never complained on weekend drives. The reality is that it was a bumpy car stock and still is.
I think trying the 12k/12k springs would be a great idea given you already have them.
FYI, I have an AP2 subframe that I'm going to install over the winter - tired of the rear moving around more than it needs to over bumps at the track.
On the street, I found that small bumps are not that much different than the stock suspension. But big bumps are indeed noticeably firmer. For me, it's ok, and my wife has never complained on weekend drives. The reality is that it was a bumpy car stock and still is.
I think trying the 12k/12k springs would be a great idea given you already have them.
FYI, I have an AP2 subframe that I'm going to install over the winter - tired of the rear moving around more than it needs to over bumps at the track.
11-06-2017, 10:55 AM
#13
Thread Starter
^thanks for the response!
I am planning a 12K/10K setup.
I have had 255's square for like...5 years now.
I didn't have a problem with lap times using the MY00 f/r bars and AP1 f/r subframes.
The AP2 rear bar and subframe just made the car more consistent. I think maybe slightly faster overall. But I can run fast lap after fast lap with predictability being the strength.
I am planning a 12K/10K setup.
I have had 255's square for like...5 years now.
I didn't have a problem with lap times using the MY00 f/r bars and AP1 f/r subframes.
The AP2 rear bar and subframe just made the car more consistent. I think maybe slightly faster overall. But I can run fast lap after fast lap with predictability being the strength.
11-07-2017, 06:09 PM
#14
Well....2KG/mm is equivalent to like 112LB/in. So its not an insignificant increase.
The dampers seem like they have some more strength left in them to handle more spring.
I am using 13mm of rear preload with the base Ohlins spring rates to net 1" of free travel. And I use a -8 setting on the dampers (all around).
I feel like the car just glides over stuff but provides the exact amount of feedback as it should.
I'm surprised AF that you're using -20 with significantly stiffer springs. That's softer than Ohlins recommendations for their base spring.
I haven't found the softer settings to be all that comfy. I don't like being jostled or floated around (under damped).
Have you tried running something like a -7 or -6?
The dampers seem like they have some more strength left in them to handle more spring.
I am using 13mm of rear preload with the base Ohlins spring rates to net 1" of free travel. And I use a -8 setting on the dampers (all around).
I feel like the car just glides over stuff but provides the exact amount of feedback as it should.
I'm surprised AF that you're using -20 with significantly stiffer springs. That's softer than Ohlins recommendations for their base spring.
I haven't found the softer settings to be all that comfy. I don't like being jostled or floated around (under damped).
Have you tried running something like a -7 or -6?
So what are you trying to gain?
11-07-2017, 06:50 PM
#15
Thread Starter
i usually run that setting on the track. On the street, anywhere from 12-20 seems good. The control is pretty good even at 20. As far as ride, in that range there is not much difference. I have been trying different settings with the new springs. I am on 8mm of preload in the back.
So what are you trying to gain?
So what are you trying to gain?
I want the car to feel more planted at the track. It is pretty soft as it is. Its *sometimes* a bit soft for road use as well.
It should still have a pretty reasonable amount of compliance (I hope) with the 12/10K combo.
I used to use 12K/10K with my KWV3's..and the car was a blast around the track. But...it didn't ride that well on the road. Likely because my car was too low for those shocks.
Being a simple brained man...I can't bring myself raise the ride height past a certain point.
The Ohlins are a better shock, and they're case length adjustable. So...hope to see some good results.
11-07-2017, 07:06 PM
#16
I think you'll like the stiffer Ohlins setup. I have been thrilled with them on 11k/11k springs. I've been gradually tightening them up and now run 3/3 regularly on the track. As I said before, there are no surprises in the chassis anymore. When the rear end does come out, I've always done something that caused me to expect it might happen, and it's simple to catch with a little countersteer and/or light lift of the throttle.
11-07-2017, 07:14 PM
#17
Thread Starter
I think you'll like the stiffer Ohlins setup. I have been thrilled with them on 11k/11k springs. I've been gradually tightening them up and now run 3/3 regularly on the track. As I said before, there are no surprises in the chassis anymore. When the rear end does come out, I've always done something that caused me to expect it might happen, and it's simple to catch with a little countersteer and/or light lift of the throttle.
Excited to try this out. May need to wait til next year, however
probably store the car away for winter tomorrow night.
11-10-2017, 03:44 PM
#18
On the track my 10/10 setup was quite a step up from the stock 10/8 setup. It's actually more like the oem balance. It wants to rotate fast, and when it does break away, it's nice and easy.
If the rear shocks had more travel, I would say the 10/8 setup would be fine. With the short stroke, they should have come with 10/10. Considering you are running a square setup, the 12/10 setup makes sense.
If the rear shocks had more travel, I would say the 10/8 setup would be fine. With the short stroke, they should have come with 10/10. Considering you are running a square setup, the 12/10 setup makes sense.
11-11-2017, 03:22 PM
#19
Hmm, I am running 10/10 and @ 10 clicks from stiff it takes some bumps better than my M-sport suspension on my E90. I really like the 10/10 on a staggered 225/255, that said I don't know that stiffer is going to make this car more planted. This car isn't a car that ever feels planted IMO, for me to drive it fast I am always fighting the car. Don't get me wrong the car sets, but it will never be an E36 M3. Stiffer suspension is going to give you quicker response but unless you swap tire compounds I don't think it will feel more "planted".
All that said, I love driving this car and if you get use to driving it like your driving a kart it can be driven fast. The key IMO is finding the setup that is the most predictable and provides the widest range before it bites you in the a$$
All that said, I love driving this car and if you get use to driving it like your driving a kart it can be driven fast. The key IMO is finding the setup that is the most predictable and provides the widest range before it bites you in the a$$
Last edited by bgoetz; 11-11-2017 at 03:35 PM.
11-12-2017, 12:12 PM
#20
It comes down to the valving. I'm on 15k/11k and the car rides fine on the road, obviously stiff but more compliant than some other coilovers with lesser rates that I've ridden in.