VSA steering angle sensor is behind the steering wheel, not in the rack. The sensor on the rack is the torque sensor, which only goes to the EPS unit for power steering assist determination.

 

There is nothing magical about the CR setup. I am not saying its not a good improvement for the money, just that you may want to jump to the next level.

To me the Ap1 seems lively and sharp, the ap2, predictable and safe, the CR is stiff like the Ap1 but more predictable like the Ap2. Its a good balance but the difference is subtle. Variations in lap times are fairly small.

Try KW, Ohlins, Bilstein, Koni, etc. Better damping rates than OE. Just my opinion, FWIW

 

Lol that's what non cr owners say about CRs that's it just a bunch of parts.

Honda put a lot of thought in to making it balanced. Tuners and garage junkies f@#k it up in the name of Lap times, stance and hard parking.

The cr is significantly quicker in the hands of most drivers at most race tracks because the car communicates well with the driver and gives the driver confidence to go faster.

Assuming you had access to 3 s2ks with similar age: ap1; ap2 and a cr, you will notice that upgrading the suspension or the wheels or aero buy itself doesn't yield massive improvement. The combination of all 3 is where it transforms for the car. However a GT wing, fancy coilovers and 255 square set up doesn't necessarily make the car better in feel, it just raises the grip limit so the car can go faster.

I'm fortunate between my friends to have these options so I know what mod does what.

In the beginning of a drivers development, you want to make the car predictable and communicative, not vague. It does no good to hand a developing driver a voltex, tein src, 255 square rs3 equipped car. Eventually it will stunt their growth bc the grip limit is too high and the margin of error too narrow.

Ultimately, like any other ap2, a stock cr will eventually under steer...it has 215 (or 225 like most of us) tire which will give out way before the rear does. There's no magic solution to high speed under steer other than to try and get the front back by tapping the brake load the front end and hope grip comes back before you run out of track.

 

I run 225 in the front and 255 in the rears and considered the square setup but like the staggered look. Does the square setup perform considerably different ?

 

Yes but you won't discover that until you are on the track.

The car has sharper turn in, higher cornering speed, brakes better but also rotates or oversteers faster

 

I can't say I have personal experience with CR but I have had good experiences with Koni, Bilstein, ISC, ST, KW, etc. We have have many of these suspension components available on our website at great pricing:
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...n/p-10038.aspx

And in response to the OP I think the next level of chassis stiffening would be a brace:
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-443991.aspx

and maybe an alignment kit to dial in your camber:
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...k/i-54410.aspx

 

Well said

 

In regard to the Front and rear sway bars do I need just bar:

51300-S2A-S11

Or should i also get the holders and ditch the ones currently on the car ?

51306-S2A-S11

Also someone mentioned the following bolt 90174-S2A-000 are there any other bolts I should replace.

 

Yeah if you are going to sway bars replace your bushings too

For the sway bar bushings I would just use a hard durometer polyurethane

As far as the bolt you listed I don't know what that connects to but for a couple of bucks why not?!?!

In the future include links to where you found them on a parts diagram so we can conveniently give you better answers

 

Hey... when I had a Mustang GT, I wanted a Saleen. When I had a C6, I wanted a Z06. Now that I have an AP1, do I want a CR? No f-ing way. Its not that its not a better car, because it clearly is (in some ways). But its not better enough. Look at the lap times, little improvement over the base car, and 90% of that is probably the tires. Its Honds's fault really, their special model cars have never really been that.... special.

I really don't want this to get into a CR vs base debate. Lets say for the sake of argument CR>AP2=AP1.

My only point to the OP, is there are better shock setups then the CR. I have never been a fan of JDM damping curves. Too much high speed compression, not enough low or high speed rebound. So here is a list of out of the box shocks that I feel are better than CR spec.

KW
Ohlins
Bilstein
Koni

FWIW