Torque steer (says the dealer)
#52
I'm having the same issue, didn't even realize it was a problem, now I'm trying to think how long the car's been doing it for. I only get the pull right when I put down or lift of the gas at speed in gear, no pull exists moving from part to full throttle or during shifts that I can detect.
I curbed a rear wheel mid-spoke on a high curb while going less than 5mph parallel to the curb a couple weeks ago and wonder now if I bent anything or it just caused a tire leak (guy going the other way on a narrow street wouldn't make enough room). Now I'm wondering if this caused that.
Glad I found this thread. Will update if/when I resolve it.
I curbed a rear wheel mid-spoke on a high curb while going less than 5mph parallel to the curb a couple weeks ago and wonder now if I bent anything or it just caused a tire leak (guy going the other way on a narrow street wouldn't make enough room). Now I'm wondering if this caused that.
Glad I found this thread. Will update if/when I resolve it.
#54
Hey guys,
OP, glad the issue was sorted so easy.
im from aus and i experienced the issue really bad. i could steer my car with the throttle... it was terrible. i could change lanes with throttle.
a lot of people suggested all these different things, tie rod ends etc etc etc.
i did end up solving this problem.
i Removed every bush in the car and replaced it with brand new Spoon bushes. (you can use genuine).
Before you do this though, buy a Spoon Rigid Collar Kit for front and rear sub frame.
once i installed this kit, (with the new bushes) the problem was 100% gone.
i had 3 wheel allignments before that, changed tyres, used nitrogen to set exact tyre pressures... nothing worked. it got really bad.
When the S2k's were built, the drive train goes in the car from the bottom and 12 bolts hold the entire front and rear sub frames in. the holes that the bolts go though are a little bigger than the actual bolts.
this is basically so the bolts go in easy on the production line and it is fast. The subframe NEVER lines up 100% with the chassis. They then correct this with a wheel alignment ot make sure the car drives straight.
I think my dad hit a huge pot hole one night and this could have moved or slightly shifted the subframe a tiny bit. then the issue became massive and no one could work it out.
The collar kits are available from GOTUNING.com. They make a huge difference.
there is an alignment hole on the front and rear subframe to stick a screw driver in... my screw driver barely went in it was so far off.
i Highly recommend this collar kit mod. even if your car does drive straight, the car handles so much better with it in. and my subframe is 100% lined up with the chassis. cheers
OP, glad the issue was sorted so easy.
im from aus and i experienced the issue really bad. i could steer my car with the throttle... it was terrible. i could change lanes with throttle.
a lot of people suggested all these different things, tie rod ends etc etc etc.
i did end up solving this problem.
i Removed every bush in the car and replaced it with brand new Spoon bushes. (you can use genuine).
Before you do this though, buy a Spoon Rigid Collar Kit for front and rear sub frame.
once i installed this kit, (with the new bushes) the problem was 100% gone.
i had 3 wheel allignments before that, changed tyres, used nitrogen to set exact tyre pressures... nothing worked. it got really bad.
When the S2k's were built, the drive train goes in the car from the bottom and 12 bolts hold the entire front and rear sub frames in. the holes that the bolts go though are a little bigger than the actual bolts.
this is basically so the bolts go in easy on the production line and it is fast. The subframe NEVER lines up 100% with the chassis. They then correct this with a wheel alignment ot make sure the car drives straight.
I think my dad hit a huge pot hole one night and this could have moved or slightly shifted the subframe a tiny bit. then the issue became massive and no one could work it out.
The collar kits are available from GOTUNING.com. They make a huge difference.
there is an alignment hole on the front and rear subframe to stick a screw driver in... my screw driver barely went in it was so far off.
i Highly recommend this collar kit mod. even if your car does drive straight, the car handles so much better with it in. and my subframe is 100% lined up with the chassis. cheers
#55
Hey guys,
OP, glad the issue was sorted so easy.
im from aus and i experienced the issue really bad. i could steer my car with the throttle... it was terrible. i could change lanes with throttle.
a lot of people suggested all these different things, tie rod ends etc etc etc.
i did end up solving this problem.
i Removed every bush in the car and replaced it with brand new Spoon bushes. (you can use genuine).
Before you do this though, buy a Spoon Rigid Collar Kit for front and rear sub frame.
once i installed this kit, (with the new bushes) the problem was 100% gone.
i had 3 wheel allignments before that, changed tyres, used nitrogen to set exact tyre pressures... nothing worked. it got really bad.
When the S2k's were built, the drive train goes in the car from the bottom and 12 bolts hold the entire front and rear sub frames in. the holes that the bolts go though are a little bigger than the actual bolts.
this is basically so the bolts go in easy on the production line and it is fast. The subframe NEVER lines up 100% with the chassis. They then correct this with a wheel alignment ot make sure the car drives straight.
I think my dad hit a huge pot hole one night and this could have moved or slightly shifted the subframe a tiny bit. then the issue became massive and no one could work it out.
The collar kits are available from GOTUNING.com. They make a huge difference.
there is an alignment hole on the front and rear subframe to stick a screw driver in... my screw driver barely went in it was so far off.
i Highly recommend this collar kit mod. even if your car does drive straight, the car handles so much better with it in. and my subframe is 100% lined up with the chassis. cheers
OP, glad the issue was sorted so easy.
im from aus and i experienced the issue really bad. i could steer my car with the throttle... it was terrible. i could change lanes with throttle.
a lot of people suggested all these different things, tie rod ends etc etc etc.
i did end up solving this problem.
i Removed every bush in the car and replaced it with brand new Spoon bushes. (you can use genuine).
Before you do this though, buy a Spoon Rigid Collar Kit for front and rear sub frame.
once i installed this kit, (with the new bushes) the problem was 100% gone.
i had 3 wheel allignments before that, changed tyres, used nitrogen to set exact tyre pressures... nothing worked. it got really bad.
When the S2k's were built, the drive train goes in the car from the bottom and 12 bolts hold the entire front and rear sub frames in. the holes that the bolts go though are a little bigger than the actual bolts.
this is basically so the bolts go in easy on the production line and it is fast. The subframe NEVER lines up 100% with the chassis. They then correct this with a wheel alignment ot make sure the car drives straight.
I think my dad hit a huge pot hole one night and this could have moved or slightly shifted the subframe a tiny bit. then the issue became massive and no one could work it out.
The collar kits are available from GOTUNING.com. They make a huge difference.
there is an alignment hole on the front and rear subframe to stick a screw driver in... my screw driver barely went in it was so far off.
i Highly recommend this collar kit mod. even if your car does drive straight, the car handles so much better with it in. and my subframe is 100% lined up with the chassis. cheers
Your information is interesting. Thanks for posting.
The OP has not posted back as to what happened. The guy who posted just before you was someone else.
There is a interesting thread in the Competion forum about many racers finding several of their subframe loose just out of the blue, take a look at it.
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