Juttering / power loss in tight corners
#1
Thread Starter
Juttering / power loss in tight corners
Hey everyone,
I recently changed out my suspension on my CR to a set of Tein SRC Evasive-spec coilovers. Ever since swapping to the new suspension, I've noticed that if I take onramps with some "spirited" speed (not stupidly fast), the car tends make a jutter-like sound from the front of the car, and the car feels like it loses power. Likewise, if I hit the brake pedal as this is happening, the pedal feels shaky - almost as if ABS is being activated. I've read somewhere that this may be the reaction of VSA engaging, but I am not entirely sure.
FWIW, my setup is this:
Tein SRC Evasive-spec coilovers
Non-staggered 255/40/17 R-S3 all around
Volk Racing CE28n 17x10 +45
J's Racing L1 (front) / 12mm RCA (rear)
Camber is -3.1 degrees all around
Just as a note, I never experienced this behavior when my car was completely stock with stock wheel/tire setup, and taking the onramp at the same speed.
I'll try to replicate the behavior with VSA turned off to see what happens, but am a little weary of doing so as I know VSA is there to protect me in case I F-up.
Anyway, thoughts? Any helpful comments would be appreciated.
I recently changed out my suspension on my CR to a set of Tein SRC Evasive-spec coilovers. Ever since swapping to the new suspension, I've noticed that if I take onramps with some "spirited" speed (not stupidly fast), the car tends make a jutter-like sound from the front of the car, and the car feels like it loses power. Likewise, if I hit the brake pedal as this is happening, the pedal feels shaky - almost as if ABS is being activated. I've read somewhere that this may be the reaction of VSA engaging, but I am not entirely sure.
FWIW, my setup is this:
Tein SRC Evasive-spec coilovers
Non-staggered 255/40/17 R-S3 all around
Volk Racing CE28n 17x10 +45
J's Racing L1 (front) / 12mm RCA (rear)
Camber is -3.1 degrees all around
Just as a note, I never experienced this behavior when my car was completely stock with stock wheel/tire setup, and taking the onramp at the same speed.
I'll try to replicate the behavior with VSA turned off to see what happens, but am a little weary of doing so as I know VSA is there to protect me in case I F-up.
Anyway, thoughts? Any helpful comments would be appreciated.
#2
I would suggest attending an autocross where you can safely troubleshoot. While there, evaluate your front sway bar setting. Perhaps it is too soft and is allowing for rear wheel spin, which would manifest itself in tight turns where the front body roll results in lifting the inside rear wheel. Then, with our Torsen differentials, you lose power to the wheels since there is no contact on one.
Otherwise, I am not sure. But if you are driving the highway and relying on traction control to keep you safe, you should not be doing what you are doing.
Good luck. Be safe. To test my theory, stiffen your front sway bar fully, and try again. Then, if it is the sway, back it off slowly until there is no more inside rear wheel spin.
Otherwise, I am not sure. But if you are driving the highway and relying on traction control to keep you safe, you should not be doing what you are doing.
Good luck. Be safe. To test my theory, stiffen your front sway bar fully, and try again. Then, if it is the sway, back it off slowly until there is no more inside rear wheel spin.
#3
Thread Starter
Thanks. Sorry if it sounded like I'm driving like a maniac. I know full well that a closed-course is the correct way to experiment with the car as I've done several HPDEs myself. My question only came about as I've literally put the car in the same scenario with 2 different settings, and experienced different behaviors with both settings.
Again, my post isn't geared to me driving 10/10ths and driving so hard that VSA will kick in. I only referenced VSA as this was something i read as possibility, but I only posted on here to confirm if this is what I was experiencing.
Anyway, I'm still using the stock sway bars. This could be a dumb question, but are they even adjustable? I'm assuming no, but I could be wrong nonetheless.
Thanks for the feedback.
Again, my post isn't geared to me driving 10/10ths and driving so hard that VSA will kick in. I only referenced VSA as this was something i read as possibility, but I only posted on here to confirm if this is what I was experiencing.
Anyway, I'm still using the stock sway bars. This could be a dumb question, but are they even adjustable? I'm assuming no, but I could be wrong nonetheless.
Thanks for the feedback.
#6
Registered User
Might have to sit in your car to diagnose the problem. Check to see if everything is tight first...and without VSA, you should be okay. You got good tires and a good alignment so the snap won't be as crazy.
#7
most likely the VSA. i have a few turns i know that will cause the vsa to kick in i take everyday on the way to work. sometimes it happens so quick the vsa light wont even flash but you can feel the power being cut as soon as the inside tire losses traction. i had megan coilovers for 30,000 miles and now have konis with tein springs and can feel a difference in these same corners not causing the vsa to kick in. it may be the progressive spring rate compared to the megan coilover or better shock. may try softening your dampening setting close to all the way soft and stiffen it little by little until you reach that point where you lose the feeling you want.
Trending Topics
#8
Thread Starter
^^^ this is exactly what it is. how do i know? cause i took the same onramp with the VSA on, and then again with the VSA off, with roughly the same the speed in both situations. with the VSA on, i kept my eye on the dash through the onramp and noticed the ! indicator would suddenly flash when abrupt behavior kicked in. with the VSA off, i was able to sail through the onramp smoothly.
thanks 08s2000CRbackinblack, i'll mess with the damper settings and see if i can find a compromise.
thanks 08s2000CRbackinblack, i'll mess with the damper settings and see if i can find a compromise.