00-01 S2000 Tweeter Mounts
I bought component speakers - Polk Audio DB6501's - and want to install them on an 01 S2000 with no stock tweeter mounts. Doing a search, I came up with the best looking mod by darkknight1999:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/index.php...&f=26&t=351945
This is something I want to shoot for. But this was done with a newer S2000. The Polk components come with flush mounts for the tweeters, but I am worried about the clearance on the driver's side at the stock tweeter location. I've also seen this as a viable alternative:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/380...1#entry7494360
Which is nice, but requires dremeling the leather on the panel, which I have NO IDEA how to do cleanly. The tweeter also doesn't create a good sound stage because it's literally under the dash. What I don't want to end up doing (no offense) is:
http://home.comcast.net/~robinette/T...iverDoorSm.jpg
because I'm a clumsy oaf and I would probably knock the mount off the panel by accident.
I'm considering the A-pillar but that would mean I would have to route wires from the crossover unit in the door panel back to the dash, which seems like a pain. Dremel in the stock location and cross my fingers that the tweeter depth will clear the panel? Any other suggestions?
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/index.php...&f=26&t=351945
This is something I want to shoot for. But this was done with a newer S2000. The Polk components come with flush mounts for the tweeters, but I am worried about the clearance on the driver's side at the stock tweeter location. I've also seen this as a viable alternative:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/380...1#entry7494360
Which is nice, but requires dremeling the leather on the panel, which I have NO IDEA how to do cleanly. The tweeter also doesn't create a good sound stage because it's literally under the dash. What I don't want to end up doing (no offense) is:
http://home.comcast.net/~robinette/T...iverDoorSm.jpg
because I'm a clumsy oaf and I would probably knock the mount off the panel by accident.
I'm considering the A-pillar but that would mean I would have to route wires from the crossover unit in the door panel back to the dash, which seems like a pain. Dremel in the stock location and cross my fingers that the tweeter depth will clear the panel? Any other suggestions?
Went ahead with the dremel. Took about 30 minutes to make the holes, another 30 to clean up a bit.
Left side:


Right side:

The right side mount isn't as flush as I would like it to be because the plastic moulding is curved. The tweeter housing actually cracked a little because I was screwing the mount in so tight to try to get it to sit lower.
I know I'm 10 years late to the party, but this board has been really helpful, thanks
Cheers,
Left side:


Right side:

The right side mount isn't as flush as I would like it to be because the plastic moulding is curved. The tweeter housing actually cracked a little because I was screwing the mount in so tight to try to get it to sit lower.
I know I'm 10 years late to the party, but this board has been really helpful, thanks

Cheers,
Sound is good. I got a Pioneer DEH-7300BT with an axxess aswc steering wheel control adapter. Not the best headunit, but I can hear it clearly with the top down at highway speeds so I'm satisfied
. The tweeters are a bit bright though, probably because the passenger one is pointed directly at my ear when I sit in the driver's seat. Pretty good sound for a low-budget setup. Would highly recommend it.
. The tweeters are a bit bright though, probably because the passenger one is pointed directly at my ear when I sit in the driver's seat. Pretty good sound for a low-budget setup. Would highly recommend it.
Actually I need some advice. When I turn the stereo up, the speakers start distorting at high volume (at volumes necessary at 50 mph with top down). Shouldn't these polks (100W RMS) hold up to the output of the headunit (4x50W) ? Could the headunit not be powerful enough and thus sending a dirty signal causing the distortion?
Thanks,
Thanks,
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Usually distortion is caused by pushing an amplifier (in this case internal to the headunit)
to produce more power than it is designed to.
Most aftermarket speakers are less efficient (though better-sounding) than the OEM ones, so
they require more power, and your headunit is probably capable of less than 20 watts RMS per
channel (50w is likely peak), so I'd bet you need "more power, Scotty!"
to produce more power than it is designed to.
Most aftermarket speakers are less efficient (though better-sounding) than the OEM ones, so
they require more power, and your headunit is probably capable of less than 20 watts RMS per
channel (50w is likely peak), so I'd bet you need "more power, Scotty!"
Usually distortion is caused by pushing an amplifier (in this case internal to the headunit)
to produce more power than it is designed to.
Most aftermarket speakers are less efficient (though better-sounding) than the OEM ones, so
they require more power, and your headunit is probably capable of less than 20 watts RMS per
channel (50w is likely peak), so I'd bet you need "more power, Scotty!"
to produce more power than it is designed to.
Most aftermarket speakers are less efficient (though better-sounding) than the OEM ones, so
they require more power, and your headunit is probably capable of less than 20 watts RMS per
channel (50w is likely peak), so I'd bet you need "more power, Scotty!"
BTW, nice job on the tweeter install.. I'm aiming for something like that.
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blue280z
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Jun 5, 2012 09:23 AM






