5A Fuse Keeps Popping
I have a fuse holder, currently with a 5A blade fuse, plugged into the "accessory" tap/port on the interior fuse box. Now connected to this fuse holder is my PLX AFR gauge, my V1 radar detector, and some heated seats. I need to confirm, but each item may have its own fuse before coming together to the 5A fuse holder going into the tap -- hopefully the configuration makes sense.
Everything works fine, but usually when I turn on the passenger heated seat (can't recall if the driver's has to be on too), the 5A fuse pops.
How should I remedy this?
I can't simply add a bigger fuse (say 10A) at the fuse holder without any cause for concern can I?
Everything works fine, but usually when I turn on the passenger heated seat (can't recall if the driver's has to be on too), the 5A fuse pops.
How should I remedy this?
I can't simply add a bigger fuse (say 10A) at the fuse holder without any cause for concern can I?
It depends on the size of the wire and what kind of amperage the heated seats draw. I'm sure they're pulling more than 5 amps. You should run them on their own circuit, either right from the battery with a fuse next to the connector, or off a higher amperage feed from the fuse box.
It depends on the size of the wire and what kind of amperage the heated seats draw. I'm sure they're pulling more than 5 amps. You should run them on their own circuit, either right from the battery with a fuse next to the connector, or off a higher amperage feed from the fuse box.
Thanks for the input guys!
your heated seats are drawing more than 5A. You could use a 10A fuse (for all devices) and see if that works. If the fuse still pops, you should run a wire from the battery (with a fuse at the battery) and then relay it into the ignition lead.
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Originally Posted by Will' timestamp='1328047896' post='21370866
Each seat will draw a max. of 5A. You need a 10A circuit or better yet, 15A for all those devices if you insist on running them on the same circuit.
Thanks for the input fellas!





