6.5" Speaker Spacers
#21
Originally Posted by alSpeed2k' timestamp='1421197245' post='23467127
^Nice, I'll try them out. Are they supposed to go between the door and the spacer or the spacer and the speaker? I noticed that Crutchfield comes in 2&1/2" depth and 3" depth, Amazon doesn't give you a choice, perhaps this is why some reviewers are saying it doesn't fit for them. I think the smaller one should fit for me, but I'm tempted to get the bigger one,does anyone know how deep our door is and if the 3" one would fit?
#22
Community Organizer
The depth limit from the sheet metal to the window stop is ~2.4". The baffle will just push in ever so slightly when you lower the window and it won't interfere with the operation. As long as your speaker's top mount depth minus the ring thickness is around 2" there should be no issues with clearance.
#24
Community Organizer
#25
Originally Posted by alSpeed2k' timestamp='1420912132' post='23463187
^I think I would like the speakers more if they had a little more bass. I'm a total noob when it comes to car audio so I probably don't have it setup right, in addition, I'm running it off the head unit only. An amp would probably help.
Speakers that are designed to work well in a car door are made to certain specifications, one of those is the ability to perform well in a LARGE enclosure. Car doors are typically in the 3-5 cubic foot range, which is HUGE for a speaker cabinet. Few 15" woofers require a cabinet that large. So when you take a speaker that works best in a 3 cu ft box and put a .05 cubic foot baffle behind it, it will not perform the same, even if the baffle is flexible. Any restriction to air movement behind the cone is like making the speaker work in a smaller box, which if it's smaller than the design parameters will always reduce bass output.
While I have not tested this type of baffle, I did test the OEM speakers with and without the baffles, quite by accident. I ran frequency response tests in my car and was confused because the right speaker had much better bass response than the left. I re-ran the test and got similar results. So I figured I'd pull the speakers and inspect them, and when I did I found the left door had the OEM baffle and the right side had the same baffle, but cut out so it was just a spacer ring.
I then swapped speakers and the left side again (baffled) had less bass, so my conclusion is that the OEM speakers would sound better without the baffles. These were not tests using my ears, I used both a sound pressure meter and a calibrated microphone feeding a spectrum analyzer so the difference was real.
#26
Community Organizer
When I ran the speakers with out baffles, the bass did not seem as clear and there was excessive resonance from everything in the door. The bass was much more clear at speed with the top down.
Edit: To clarify, you may be getting a bit more thump from them with the larger air space for the woofers to affect, but I think the audio quality suffers for it. In the end, if you're after powerful bass, get a subwoofer.
Edit: To clarify, you may be getting a bit more thump from them with the larger air space for the woofers to affect, but I think the audio quality suffers for it. In the end, if you're after powerful bass, get a subwoofer.
#27
I then swapped speakers and the left side again (baffled) had less bass, so my conclusion is that the OEM speakers would sound better without the baffles. These were not tests using my ears, I used both a sound pressure meter and a calibrated microphone feeding a spectrum analyzer so the difference was real.
#29
this might be helpful for this thread.
Alpine type R components
spacers from car speaker adapters.com
dynamat speaker kit
the dynamat also covers the gaps that the spacers create, and makes a very solid speaker mounting system. these have really good bass for a non amped 6.5 and there is virtually no rattling or vibration in the door. Its not all that loud without an amp but good enough for me.
simple, pretty cheap way to get good sound
Alpine type R components
spacers from car speaker adapters.com
dynamat speaker kit
the dynamat also covers the gaps that the spacers create, and makes a very solid speaker mounting system. these have really good bass for a non amped 6.5 and there is virtually no rattling or vibration in the door. Its not all that loud without an amp but good enough for me.
simple, pretty cheap way to get good sound
#30
When I ran the speakers with out baffles, the bass did not seem as clear and there was excessive resonance from everything in the door. The bass was much more clear at speed with the top down.
Edit: To clarify, you may be getting a bit more thump from them with the larger air space for the woofers to affect, but I think the audio quality suffers for it. In the end, if you're after powerful bass, get a subwoofer.
Edit: To clarify, you may be getting a bit more thump from them with the larger air space for the woofers to affect, but I think the audio quality suffers for it. In the end, if you're after powerful bass, get a subwoofer.
If you have more bass because of no baffles (more thump as you say) you will also have more vibration and other noises from the door which can be annoying, and reducing the bass output of the driver (however you do it) can reduce that noise. You may be able to achieve a similar effect by simply turning down the bass. I'd be surprised if anyone could accurately tell the difference in actual driver output between the two at speed with the top down. The only reason I noticed was the meter readings were different; I'm not sure I could tell just by listening and I was in the garage.