yep, you will need to get a junction box and tap another wire off the main one from the battery (you can do this in the boot) and then connect up the second amp. A wiring kit may be necessary to get all the stuff you need, extra wire, terminal junction box etc, fuses.

well how many watts RMS is your subwoofer rated at? When looking at the power ratings always reference the watts in RMS, the peak power means jack shit.

 

i called up he said RMS is between 300 to 350
the sub is 4 ohm
i was told i can run a monoblock simply just by getting another 8 guage cable from the amp power to the mono and find a new grounding point and the same with the remote ... does that sound right ??

if so i can do it myself
also im looking to fins like a 400watt mono block with 300w at 4OHM should that be enough?

 

ok 300 to 350W rms should give you a bit of bass. I was running 900W RMS about 4 months ago on soundstream gear and i reckoned it could of used more lol.

Remember with s2k being a softop convertible you lose a lot of bass without a solid roof. Also with lots of plastic panels etc, you are going to get a lot of vibration. With the roof down you lose even more bass.

hrmmm well where is your current amp located? in the boot? behind the seat?

how i had my amps setup was two amps in the boot. 8 guage wire going from battery terminal, through cabin into the spare wheel cavity. Off this i connected a junction box, you screw the wires into it. Basically you put the 8 guage in one side, and on the other side there are 3 terminals for 4 guage wire, its basically just a wire splitter. It is not nessary to run another wire when you already have one coming off the battery, unless the one comign off the battery is only a 4 guage.

for grounding - anything metal, but i'm currently grounded into the metal panels behind the front drivers seat. pull seat forward, undo the two screws on the plastic hooks, pull off the panel. In there you can get a self tapping metal screw and screw it in with the wire for ground. replace panel.

the 300W @ 4 ohms is ok, but doesnt provide much space for upgrading later incase you want more bass. I think a good amount of bass is around 500W RMS. depends what you want. Do you want thump, that you can hear a block away, or you just want some light bass in the car to fill the gap in the bassline?!

 

also i see that your still using the stock HU. The stock headunit is a piece of junk, it runs like 7W rms per channel. A replacement headunit will give you clearer sound. Even a $150 buck pioneer job will kill the stock piece of crap headunit.

On a little bit more expensive headunit you will get PREOUT connections. You can use one preout to the splits amplifier, and one subwoofer preout for the subbie.

Its all relative to what you want, and how much you want to spend on it. You can still do a really good budget system if you buy wisely, but you can still buy expensive stuff and not match up the equipment correctly and end up with something your not happy with.

do your own reasearch, learn about car audio then go and look for what your after. dont believe the dickheads at JB HIFI or those wankers. Those guys most of the time havent even got a system in their car, maybe haven't even set one up before, and at the end of the day will sell you the items which get them the most commission, and sell you what they want to get rid of.

 

If this thread is any indication of your electrical prowess can I advise you to have a professional do it.

 

thanks buddy and thanks aus and the others
well ill try out by removing the sub when i get home ...
only reason i am keeping the factory HU is cause i dont want to lose my controls ...
and dont want to spend too much time getting a DCI and a unit to match or vice verser.

i was going to fit a JVC KDAVX2 in but it wouldnt fit behind the flip out cover for the HU.

i was quite happy with my schneider setup before so i guess its ok to have 300w RMS ... im not going to DB drags lolz...

with the quality i have it is quite clear actually ... althrough the standard unit is crap i tuned it to be quite clear

with the 3 way liquid tweeters i have the treble is real real clear ...

BTW my amp is in my boot on the opposite side from the stacker.

also jap cab i was wondering if you have deadened your boot cause i cant find out on where to start on a S2K.

thanks for all your help guys
greatly appreciated

 

Todays lesson brought to you by the letter D, C and I.

Oh, hang on, you already know about it. But your cost argument is false economy. You'll end up with nothing but booming garbage and you've already blown wads on two subs and two amps.

Really.

 

sound deadening is necessary with but any sort of decent bass you will need to remove the boot liner trims, replace with dynamat and perhaps recarpet the boot. I put in a soundstream 900W rms with an edge amp pumping in 900W rms. it was hella loud, but the bass quality was crap and that wasn't because of the equipment, it was because of the limited boot space and soft top, and all the plastic trims. Depends how far you want to go. I'm sure u can get it to sound good but equipment is half of your sound install, proper installation is the other half.

the JVC headunit - is taht the one with the DVD screen? Its pretty pointless because you acnt listen to music and have a DVD going at the same time.

if you want good sound quality, go for a decent alpine headunit.

with the stock controls, stuff em. All you lose is the audio control. The mute connected up to my Kenwood XXV-01d fine, but i lost the volume control. I believe some sony headunits cater for the volume one.

With your current schneider amp you can run teh splits off two channels, but the sub can only run off one of the channels, meaning you will run 65W RMS @ 4 Ohm into the sub. it will work.

A better headunit will give you Digital crossovers, digital 4 or 5 band EQ and maybe digital time allignment etc which you can further to use to tune the system.

 

and you can fit that kenwood headunit, but it requires some work with a dremel to make it fit. When you take it out you will require a new flip out door mount.

 

lollllllll hehe yeah i was going to say you might need to get someone who knows soemthing about it to show you. after that you'll be fine. Either that or you can learn after blowing a few amps/subs....or maybe not!