Thank you for sharing your set-up! Looks to be in-line with what I also have in mind.
I got the rear vent speakers installed this weekend. Super easy and makes a HUGE difference.

I'm having issues getting my door speakers to fit. I ordered a metra mounting bracket, but doesn't fit the door.
Then I cut out the basket from the OEM bracket, but the Kenwood speaker mounting holes don't fit/match the OEM bracket.

I just ordered the SAK033 from Car-Speaker-Adapters. Hopefully the Kenwood speakers will line up and these will work.

What did you use for the mounting rings? I know most use modifry rings, but Bob isn't making them anymore.

 

I just cut basket off stock, then used self taping screws into stock ring. Didn't use any other rings.

I then also used one of those foam spacer kits. A large foam disk to mount to door skin directly behind speaker. Prevents reverse sounds from vibing door. Plus a ring that I mounted to door card to fill gap between card and speaker, so sound not lost going out side instead of out front.

I also insulated doors.

25% coverage dynamat type cld tiles. Divide each large flat section of door skin into a series of squares. Cut a piece 25% size of square. Mount to center of virtual square. Repeat for entire door. Adds minimal weight, maximum gains.

Have to roll it flat,so makes good contact. Metal foil tape edges. This isn't to make sure doesn't fall off,but to make sure its mass becomes one with door skin mass. For adhesion thoroughly clean surface with alcohol.

Next get thinsulate sound deadening. Cover back of door card 100%.

For less expensive solution, use this stuff:

Amazon sound insulation

 

Just did the sound deadening on mine:


Door card

Inside door

Old alpine headunit

Got my mate to 3D print some prototype rings. Fit perfectly. Will be tweaking them a little for final dimensions

Door with Kilmat and foam

New speakers and silicone surround

 

Sadly, you did it wrong.

The damping tiles need to go on metal. They work by adding mass, changing resonant frequency. Eliminating oil drum effect. Mercedes solid door shut.

These tiles don't actually block sound waves. Thet prevent large, flat metal surfaces from becoming speakers, publishing road noise into cabin.

 

if you look closer they are all over the outer door skin which is the primary use, added more to the door cards for extra mass. Sounds excellent with no vibration on the door card. right or wrong?!

 

Thanks. The pics were slow to load, so I only saw first one when I commented before, didn't realize there were more.

The only thing wrong ismore weight added than needed. The stuff on the door cards not really doing anything (use thinsulate at 100% coverage here), and door panels you only need 25% coverage. More doesn't really do anything.

Also, you have to thoroughly roll out the waffle pattern. The stuff only changes the mass if its part of the panel mass. Which only happens if its so completely adhered that it becomes one. Rolling out waffle makes sure of that.

 

Sounds good. Yes some waffle still left in areas, harder to access with the roller tool!

 

If you only do 25%, no issue rolling out waffles.

Virtually divide each large, flat section into a series of squares. Make large rectangles into several smaller squares. Cut pieces 25% of each square. Place center of that square.

Roll out waffles (thoroughly clean w alcohol first, till paper towel comes back clean.) Metal foil tape edges.

 

I was able to attach the kenwood mounting ring that came with the speakers to the OEM bracket. There doesn't seem to be any fitment issue with the door panel being put back on the door, but I'll keep that on watch and report if any changes.

Thank you for taking the time to provide your details on your set-up!
I used the Amazon Basics blue foil sound deaden for driver side and no insulation or blocking of holes. I still have my passenger door speaker to change out, so I will try to follow your instructions/input on the insulation/deadening materials. I think if I do it will result in a better job and more coverage.

On the driver side door, I felt I could have done a better job filling the large hole, I didn't do anything to address that besides sticking as much of the Amazon mat that I could throughout the metal door.
I'll post pictures of both for comparison when I get the 2nd door done. I did take pictures of the driver side door before I put the panel and moisture barrier back.

Did you keep the plastic moisture barrier, or did you remove that entirely?

 

I kept the plastic moisture barrier.

One other thing I did, butyl tape. I used spare bits of it to redo the spots that hold that on.

I bought the tape to wedge between internal crashbar tubes and outer door skin. Prevent vibes between them.

There is such material already there from factory, but quite scant and kinda hardened.

I left gaps to allow water drainage. Anything that gets past window seals.

I did above and below each of these reinforcement tubes. Aligned gaps top to bottom.

I just laid the tape in loosely in place, then used fingers to jamb down it in place. IIRC, I also used foil tape over the butyl on top side. Prevent dust and junk sticking to it.

Lastly, adjust the rubber door stops so they don't allow door to move,but don't make it harder for latch to catch,so don't have to slam doors.

I just noted location of a stop, closed door, then pressed that spot on outside, to see how much it moved. Adjusted (turned) stop out until door won't move when pressed.

These stops also used to help final adjustment how door sits to q panel. So make note of that too.

Door will shut like a Benz, be solid like granite despite how much you crank up volume, block tire noise on hwy. Most impressive to doubters, knock fender with knuckles then knock door. Its like oil drum vs Sherman tank.