Big THANKS to Electronics forum
Thanks to this forum and modifry's site, I was able to install a new head unit, modifry DCI, and new component speakers.
I've never done anything like this on my own before, and I managed to get everything working on the first try!
Next step is to get my sub/amp in the car, hopefully that part goes smoothly too. I may have to return my 8 gauge wiring kit and get a 4 gauge though, as I never noticed until now, but the amplifier calls for 4 gauge. I wonder if it's that big of a deal? I'm not running much power at all from that amp...
I've never done anything like this on my own before, and I managed to get everything working on the first try!
Next step is to get my sub/amp in the car, hopefully that part goes smoothly too. I may have to return my 8 gauge wiring kit and get a 4 gauge though, as I never noticed until now, but the amplifier calls for 4 gauge. I wonder if it's that big of a deal? I'm not running much power at all from that amp...
Actually I should add one thing... The head unit gets stuck about a CM out from sitting "flush" after loading a cd. As far as I can tell it's catching on the plastic trim piece that goes around the head unit.
Would I be best to just take it all apart and trim that plastic piece down, or is there an easier way?
Head unit is an Alpine CDA-9853
Would I be best to just take it all apart and trim that plastic piece down, or is there an easier way?
Head unit is an Alpine CDA-9853
I have the 9851 and it works / fits fine. Yours should be the same size. Make sure the HU is not being held off by any jumbled wires. Make sure it is screwed in all the way. Then remove the plastic bezel and make sure it closes properly without it. There is an "up" and a "down" to the bezel. If you mix them up, I could see a little plastic tab getting the way. Also, make sure you have not selected "TILT 1" as the opening option....this would cause it to not close all the way.
What is the wattage rating on the amp? (peak and WRMS)
I think pretty much anything under 300WRMS and you should be fine with 8g. If you are at or above 400WRMS, I would go with 4g. Talk to Dave (NFRS2000NYC...i think...or something like that). He has melted wires due to over amping them (depends more on current than anything), and he REALLY knows wire sizes and loads for those wires.
If you need a 4g kit, www.knukonceptz.com has a good one for like $40. I got one to sell (extra...never opened) for like 35 + shipping.
John
What is the wattage rating on the amp? (peak and WRMS)
I think pretty much anything under 300WRMS and you should be fine with 8g. If you are at or above 400WRMS, I would go with 4g. Talk to Dave (NFRS2000NYC...i think...or something like that). He has melted wires due to over amping them (depends more on current than anything), and he REALLY knows wire sizes and loads for those wires.
If you need a 4g kit, www.knukonceptz.com has a good one for like $40. I got one to sell (extra...never opened) for like 35 + shipping.
John
Fixed the head unit issue. It really just wouldn't clear. I think the extra padding of the vinyl console cover on the '04 just makes the radio door sit a bit higher than it should. I had to cut the bottom part off the trim piece for the head unit. Luckily it's not visible unless you get under it and look.
The amp is 150 watts RMS. I went ahead and tried to install it tonight with the 8 gauge... The odd thing is that it's red power light is coming on, but nothing is happening. To me this says that it's not the remote turn on, as the red status LED on the amp doesn't come on unless I turn on the head unit.
Maybe it's just a poor ground? I'm hoping so... will have to try it again soon.
The amp is 150 watts RMS. I went ahead and tried to install it tonight with the 8 gauge... The odd thing is that it's red power light is coming on, but nothing is happening. To me this says that it's not the remote turn on, as the red status LED on the amp doesn't come on unless I turn on the head unit.
Maybe it's just a poor ground? I'm hoping so... will have to try it again soon.
Originally Posted by PJK3,Aug 25 2005, 09:33 AM
hrm... what does the manual say about the amp?
is a red light a power indicator or a warning?
is a red light a power indicator or a warning?
Three LEDs, indicate operational status of all Xtant A Series amplifiers. The red LED
illuminates when the amplifier is
You are only running 150WRMS to the sub? That is like nothing....I am at 283WRMS and it leaves me wanting more sometimes. Make sure the x-over on the amp set at the proper frequency. If it is too low, at that low wattage, you might not hear / see it move. Up it to around 80-100HTZ. Also...are the RCA's hooked up? (Probably a stupid question, but got to cover all bases).
John
John
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ok -- can you throw down a few more details on what you've got and how it's connected?
before you spend too much time though -- go to the Alpine, and turn the sub level to +15 dB and double check to see if you get some output again.
before you spend too much time though -- go to the Alpine, and turn the sub level to +15 dB and double check to see if you get some output again.
Here is what I've got setup: (well, right now the sub and amp are out of the car while I figure out what to do)
I have the remote turn on wire from the head unit run down the passanger side of the car, hooked up to the amp. I also have the RCA cable hooked up from the sub output on the back of the head unit, run down the passanger side of the car.
On the driver side of the car I have the 8 gauge power wire.
I have the 8 gauge grounding wire running to one of the bolts on the rear strut tower bar. I scraped away as much paint as I could around the bolt hole, but I did not have any sand paper handy. This is what leads me to believe it may just be a poor ground, I probably don't have enough bare metal there.
On saturday night after work I'm going to give this one more try with the supplies I have. I'll leave the 8 gauge power wire intact, and focus on trying some of the things you guys have suggested. I'm also going to get some sand paper and try to make sure that the grounding point isn't the issue.
I have the remote turn on wire from the head unit run down the passanger side of the car, hooked up to the amp. I also have the RCA cable hooked up from the sub output on the back of the head unit, run down the passanger side of the car.
On the driver side of the car I have the 8 gauge power wire.
I have the 8 gauge grounding wire running to one of the bolts on the rear strut tower bar. I scraped away as much paint as I could around the bolt hole, but I did not have any sand paper handy. This is what leads me to believe it may just be a poor ground, I probably don't have enough bare metal there.
On saturday night after work I'm going to give this one more try with the supplies I have. I'll leave the 8 gauge power wire intact, and focus on trying some of the things you guys have suggested. I'm also going to get some sand paper and try to make sure that the grounding point isn't the issue.
ok... comments and feedback.
RCA's and turn on lead?
double check that the RCA's are plugged into the subwoofer out, and make sure the Alpine has the subwoofer out turned on in the setup menu. also, set it for mono and turn the level to +15
power and ground?
both sound fine.
please tell me you've got a fuse w/in 18" of the battery for the power.
i wouldn't touch the paint any more. for all of my grounds in all of my cars, and in virtually every car i've ever put an amp in... i've never sanded paint to get a 'good ground'. while i realize some may be shocked and consider this a 'no no', let me qualify that statement by saying that i always choose an unpainted (preferrably zinc plated or such) frame driven bolt. the plating will not reduce conduction, and the threads internal to the bolt are generally not painted either. thus, i have the full surface area of all the threads for the length and circumference of the bolt as a conduction zone. now, if i ever had a sign of a poor ground, i'd start sanding to address the problem. but i've never had to... look at ALL of the factory grounds. they use this same type of bolt and connection for their grounds.)
at this point -- i'm inclined to believe that your problem is probably NOT amp driven, but could be more likely based on improper HU setup. as a test, hook the amp back up. use a portable CD player or MP3 player and connect it to your RCA inputs... turn down the volume on the player, then fire up the amp and car. slowly turn up the level and see if you get some bass from that sub. that way, we can know if it's a sub and amp issue or a HU and RCA issue.
a bad ground is more likely to cause you problems with hum or buzz or such. if you've got power, you've got enough of a ground to at least hear SOMETHING.
*edit*
btw -- back when i first got the S, i quickly got in my HU, speakers, and an amp while i waited for my sub and fabbed up the rest of my install.
here's a pic from way back then
and you can clearly see my ground location. since this picture, i've upgraded to 4 ga, moved my amps, etc. but i'm still using this ground point -- just on the passenger side vs driver's side.
http://members.cox.net/knieper.1/S2000/DSCF0012.JPG
RCA's and turn on lead?
double check that the RCA's are plugged into the subwoofer out, and make sure the Alpine has the subwoofer out turned on in the setup menu. also, set it for mono and turn the level to +15
power and ground?
both sound fine.
please tell me you've got a fuse w/in 18" of the battery for the power.
i wouldn't touch the paint any more. for all of my grounds in all of my cars, and in virtually every car i've ever put an amp in... i've never sanded paint to get a 'good ground'. while i realize some may be shocked and consider this a 'no no', let me qualify that statement by saying that i always choose an unpainted (preferrably zinc plated or such) frame driven bolt. the plating will not reduce conduction, and the threads internal to the bolt are generally not painted either. thus, i have the full surface area of all the threads for the length and circumference of the bolt as a conduction zone. now, if i ever had a sign of a poor ground, i'd start sanding to address the problem. but i've never had to... look at ALL of the factory grounds. they use this same type of bolt and connection for their grounds.)
at this point -- i'm inclined to believe that your problem is probably NOT amp driven, but could be more likely based on improper HU setup. as a test, hook the amp back up. use a portable CD player or MP3 player and connect it to your RCA inputs... turn down the volume on the player, then fire up the amp and car. slowly turn up the level and see if you get some bass from that sub. that way, we can know if it's a sub and amp issue or a HU and RCA issue.
a bad ground is more likely to cause you problems with hum or buzz or such. if you've got power, you've got enough of a ground to at least hear SOMETHING.
*edit*
btw -- back when i first got the S, i quickly got in my HU, speakers, and an amp while i waited for my sub and fabbed up the rest of my install.
here's a pic from way back then
and you can clearly see my ground location. since this picture, i've upgraded to 4 ga, moved my amps, etc. but i'm still using this ground point -- just on the passenger side vs driver's side.http://members.cox.net/knieper.1/S2000/DSCF0012.JPG


