components and ap2s
From what little audio knowledge I have, Ive heard its usually not a good idea to have the tweeter more than a few inches from the midbass.
1) Is that true?
2) what would you recommend for an s2000? just get rid of the stock tweeter and leave the location blank?
I have a 75x2 or 100x2 Autotek amp sitting in my garage (cant remember)and need to buy a headunit. Not going for anything huge. Just an improvement over stock which should be easy.
1) Is that true?
2) what would you recommend for an s2000? just get rid of the stock tweeter and leave the location blank?
I have a 75x2 or 100x2 Autotek amp sitting in my garage (cant remember)and need to buy a headunit. Not going for anything huge. Just an improvement over stock which should be easy.
I've never heard that part about the tweets and mid base for components, but I can tell you from what I've heard in the car that I don't think it matters, and it will be a lot easier to use the stock mounting locations. Remember, Honda engineers mounted the speakers after audible research, so its not like ou can likely do better - just upgrade the speakers and se the stock mounts and you'll be fine.
As for the sub (thing), if you already have it, it can't hurt to put it in the trunk and try it out, but most people here prefer traditional subs to tubes.
As for the sub (thing), if you already have it, it can't hurt to put it in the trunk and try it out, but most people here prefer traditional subs to tubes.
I guess I wanted to kinda know if I wanted to mount the tweeters in the stock locations, is there is specific manufacturer I should focus on?
or should I just stay away from that?
And it seems like thezeb.com is no longer around so no CDT CL-61s for 150 bucks.
or should I just stay away from that?
And it seems like thezeb.com is no longer around so no CDT CL-61s for 150 bucks.
I have a set of CL61 lying around, they were used for about 18 months. I have one pair each of the ti and silk tweeters for them, and the lucid adapters. Oh and a set of Focal 165V2 Polyglass that was used for barely a month. PM me if you'd like more info.
Regarding the stock location for the tweeters, I don't think it's the best but you can make it work. The reason you want the tweeter and woofer to be close is to minimize the path length difference between them for best time alignment and imaging. With the stock locations, the path length difference between the tweeter and woofer as well as the amount the driver is off axis varies between the L and R side.
You work around the first problem if you use an active crossover or head unit with such, and can time align each driver separately. That is more trouble than most people are willing to go thru though. I think you can make the stock locations work pretty well and the result is more stealthy, a good thing for a car that can be opened with a pen knife.
As far as what to look for, in order for it to fit without modification you need the body to be ~40mm diameter or less, and it shouldn't be more than about 20mm deep. Bigger than that you can make it fit, but with a bit of work.
With the tweeters so much closer to you than the woofers, I would personally pick something a bit more laid back than if they were down at the bottom of the doors. That or something with adjustable tweeter attenuation on the crossover. All IMHO of course
HTH
Peter
Regarding the stock location for the tweeters, I don't think it's the best but you can make it work. The reason you want the tweeter and woofer to be close is to minimize the path length difference between them for best time alignment and imaging. With the stock locations, the path length difference between the tweeter and woofer as well as the amount the driver is off axis varies between the L and R side.
You work around the first problem if you use an active crossover or head unit with such, and can time align each driver separately. That is more trouble than most people are willing to go thru though. I think you can make the stock locations work pretty well and the result is more stealthy, a good thing for a car that can be opened with a pen knife.
As far as what to look for, in order for it to fit without modification you need the body to be ~40mm diameter or less, and it shouldn't be more than about 20mm deep. Bigger than that you can make it fit, but with a bit of work.
With the tweeters so much closer to you than the woofers, I would personally pick something a bit more laid back than if they were down at the bottom of the doors. That or something with adjustable tweeter attenuation on the crossover. All IMHO of course

HTH
Peter
Thanks for the help Peter. Im leaning towards just buying a headunit and a pair of coaxials for a couple of reasons.
I dont wanna mess with too much audio or custom installs because a) I remember adding an amp and components in my ap1 and I wasnt that impressed after having Polk coaxials running off the headunit b) I leased the S2000 as my daily driver and I dont really want to cut for tweeter mounting or involved installs.
Im thinking about ordering the Alpine 9853 headunit and the Infinity Reference 6.5 coaxials. Along with changing to a quieter exhaust, that should keep me happy.
I dont wanna mess with too much audio or custom installs because a) I remember adding an amp and components in my ap1 and I wasnt that impressed after having Polk coaxials running off the headunit b) I leased the S2000 as my daily driver and I dont really want to cut for tweeter mounting or involved installs.
Im thinking about ordering the Alpine 9853 headunit and the Infinity Reference 6.5 coaxials. Along with changing to a quieter exhaust, that should keep me happy.
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I'm very confused with statement "a" Which did you install coaxials or components? Your not going to want to have coax speakers in this car. The biggest reason being your leg. Blocking mid-bass you can deal with, but blocking the highs is just not a good idea. Plenty of speakers are drop-in type for both the mid range woofer and the tweeter.
Also if you have an '05' you have the tweeters in the door and you don't have to cut anything. Its just replacing them.
That HU will be fine but don't install coax speakers in this car you'll regret it. Components are the way to go.
Also if you have an '05' you have the tweeters in the door and you don't have to cut anything. Its just replacing them.
That HU will be fine but don't install coax speakers in this car you'll regret it. Components are the way to go.
I initially did try coax speakers in my AP2 and yanked the plug on the OEM tweeters, but was not impressed with the results. I heard the argument about tweeter/mid spacing distance from more than a few stereo install shops when I was shopping for new components, but after going the component route using the OEM positions, I am glad I did it. the mids are far too low in the cabin of the car to be a useful option for high frequency sounds.






