Connecting Driver and Passenger Door (un)lock
11-08-2006, 02:25 PM
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Connecting Driver and Passenger Door (un)lock
i want a better option so that i dont have to reach over and unlock the passenger door when needed. so i looked at the wiring for the remote/door lock relay.
it seems like if you connect wires 7 and 18 in the remote receiver controller harness, the driver door lock and passenger door lock will be connected, so that whenever you unlock the driver door, the passenger door will unlock simultaneously.
i think it would work with just a simple jumper between the two. that would be easiest. or should i disconnect the 18 (passenger) wire completely from the harness and then splice it onto the 7 wire?
btw, i read this already. id rather not use the roof or trunk switch or whatever.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=51052
unless ppl think the passenger door switch will burn out from extra use...
anyone ever do this??? comments?
it seems like if you connect wires 7 and 18 in the remote receiver controller harness, the driver door lock and passenger door lock will be connected, so that whenever you unlock the driver door, the passenger door will unlock simultaneously.
i think it would work with just a simple jumper between the two. that would be easiest. or should i disconnect the 18 (passenger) wire completely from the harness and then splice it onto the 7 wire?
btw, i read this already. id rather not use the roof or trunk switch or whatever.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=51052
unless ppl think the passenger door switch will burn out from extra use...
anyone ever do this??? comments?
11-09-2006, 02:48 AM
#2
I don't have enough information on the internal wiring of the Keyless Entry module to know for sure if this would be a problem or not.
I don't believe the issue is whether the circuit for the driver's door could 'handle" operating both locks, or whether the passenger lock will wear out. I think the possibility exists that the internal wiring for the passenger door lock could hold wire 18 connected to ground or +12v all the time.
For example, in the convertible top module the relays hold BOTH wires for the top motors at ground all the time, one relay for each wire. When the top goes down they activate 'relay 1' and switch one motor wire to +12v (motor runs forward), when you let go of the button the relay drops out connecting both sides of the motor to ground again. When you raise the top 'relay 2' is activated, putting +12v on the other motor wire (motor runs in reverse now).
If the same type circuit is used in the Keyless entry module then connecting wire 7 to wire 18 will cause a short every time you activate the driver's lock, which WILL break something, maybe not immediately but it's a certainty.
My suggestion is to CUT wire 18 (pink/blue) an inch or two before it enters the Keyless entry module connector, insulate the end that goes onto the connector, and then splice the harness end into wire 7 (yellow/green). Of course you leave wire 7 uncut. I do know people have doen this before, with success. The "no cut" method might work, might fry. Wanna test it and let us know?
.
I don't believe the issue is whether the circuit for the driver's door could 'handle" operating both locks, or whether the passenger lock will wear out. I think the possibility exists that the internal wiring for the passenger door lock could hold wire 18 connected to ground or +12v all the time.
For example, in the convertible top module the relays hold BOTH wires for the top motors at ground all the time, one relay for each wire. When the top goes down they activate 'relay 1' and switch one motor wire to +12v (motor runs forward), when you let go of the button the relay drops out connecting both sides of the motor to ground again. When you raise the top 'relay 2' is activated, putting +12v on the other motor wire (motor runs in reverse now).
If the same type circuit is used in the Keyless entry module then connecting wire 7 to wire 18 will cause a short every time you activate the driver's lock, which WILL break something, maybe not immediately but it's a certainty.
My suggestion is to CUT wire 18 (pink/blue) an inch or two before it enters the Keyless entry module connector, insulate the end that goes onto the connector, and then splice the harness end into wire 7 (yellow/green). Of course you leave wire 7 uncut. I do know people have doen this before, with success. The "no cut" method might work, might fry. Wanna test it and let us know?
.
11-09-2006, 08:26 AM
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thanks for chiming in bob. that concern is exactly what i was getting at.
it does seem like power is allowed to go both ways through the door switch to lock and unlock it respectively. not sure if it would be a problem if the voltage was switched, when it didnt "expect" it.
so i guess disconnecting 18 is the safest thing to do. i try my best never to cut a factory wire. i just depin the wire from the harness and ill use another piece of wire to connect and splice into 7 by simply jamming it in the leads. should do the trick.
oh well, hoping someone else had done this before here. its such a simple thing to do, wonder why no one else had thought of it. (perhaps no one else cares...)
it does seem like power is allowed to go both ways through the door switch to lock and unlock it respectively. not sure if it would be a problem if the voltage was switched, when it didnt "expect" it.
so i guess disconnecting 18 is the safest thing to do. i try my best never to cut a factory wire. i just depin the wire from the harness and ill use another piece of wire to connect and splice into 7 by simply jamming it in the leads. should do the trick.
oh well, hoping someone else had done this before here. its such a simple thing to do, wonder why no one else had thought of it. (perhaps no one else cares...)
11-14-2006, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by tysonCRX,Nov 9 2006, 09:26 AM
thanks for chiming in bob. that concern is exactly what i was getting at.
it does seem like power is allowed to go both ways through the door switch to lock and unlock it respectively. not sure if it would be a problem if the voltage was switched, when it didnt "expect" it.
so i guess disconnecting 18 is the safest thing to do. i try my best never to cut a factory wire. i just depin the wire from the harness and ill use another piece of wire to connect and splice into 7 by simply jamming it in the leads. should do the trick.
oh well, hoping someone else had done this before here. its such a simple thing to do, wonder why no one else had thought of it. (perhaps no one else cares...)
it does seem like power is allowed to go both ways through the door switch to lock and unlock it respectively. not sure if it would be a problem if the voltage was switched, when it didnt "expect" it.
so i guess disconnecting 18 is the safest thing to do. i try my best never to cut a factory wire. i just depin the wire from the harness and ill use another piece of wire to connect and splice into 7 by simply jamming it in the leads. should do the trick.
oh well, hoping someone else had done this before here. its such a simple thing to do, wonder why no one else had thought of it. (perhaps no one else cares...)
11-14-2006, 11:04 AM
#6
The above re-wire does work, but there are other options if you don't want to unlock both doors every time: http://www.modifry.com/freebies/door_unlock.htm
12-04-2006, 09:47 AM
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nevermind. doesnt work when the key is in the ON position. theres something else prohibiting the keyless entry with the key in the ignition...
EUREKA!!!!
i was flipping thru the manual last night before bed to fall asleep (yes, im a nut), and it dawned on me!
the real issue is that when the key is in the ignition, the keyless entry module will disable the any commands from the remote. so the solution is to NEVER LET THE MODULE KNOW THE KEY IS IN THE IGNITION!
just have to remove the #13 pin from the keyless entry harness which receives a ground from the ignition whenever the key is in. itll never know! so now when the passenger wants to get in with the door locked, or you need to unlock the passenger door for whatever other reason, just use the remote like normal!
i think this is gonna work and be much more simpler. the keyless entry lockout is useless in my opinion.
EUREKA!!!!
i was flipping thru the manual last night before bed to fall asleep (yes, im a nut), and it dawned on me!
the real issue is that when the key is in the ignition, the keyless entry module will disable the any commands from the remote. so the solution is to NEVER LET THE MODULE KNOW THE KEY IS IN THE IGNITION!
just have to remove the #13 pin from the keyless entry harness which receives a ground from the ignition whenever the key is in. itll never know! so now when the passenger wants to get in with the door locked, or you need to unlock the passenger door for whatever other reason, just use the remote like normal!
i think this is gonna work and be much more simpler. the keyless entry lockout is useless in my opinion.
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12-07-2006, 11:00 AM
#8
It's not 100% useless, as it does prevent you from opening the trunk if you hit the wrong button. That's when you tell your passenger (who's about to get in and sit down) to get back out, go around and close the trunk.
12-07-2006, 11:42 AM
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maybe. i havent gotten into a situation like that yet, even fumbling with the remote in my pocket.
i havent had time to investigate further. just dropped the car off to get the bumper repainted. wont be back for a while.
i also plan on adding a piezo between the passenger door lock signal and ground. that way itll confirm whenever i pressed the passenger unlock and confirm the FIRST time i lock the car. i disabled the obnoxious horn signal.
i havent had time to investigate further. just dropped the car off to get the bumper repainted. wont be back for a while.
i also plan on adding a piezo between the passenger door lock signal and ground. that way itll confirm whenever i pressed the passenger unlock and confirm the FIRST time i lock the car. i disabled the obnoxious horn signal.
12-07-2006, 12:42 PM
#10
I hate the horn signal too but since I use my alarm remote to operate the locks it never honks.
My wife has an Accord and parks in a covered garage at work and the honk was really annoying her. So I installed a ding-dong unit (from Radio Shack) and mounted it on the door jamb of the left rear door. It's "outside" the car so it's easy to hear but is protected from the weather. It's been there 3 years now and still works. The only unusual side-effect is that if you push down the front door lock knob while inside the car it will lock all the doors, making the "ding-dong" go "ding-dong".
PS - the "ding-dong" is not a simple mod, as it requires constant power and a momentary trigger. But you could use a standard piezo beeper and just parallel the lock wires (with a diode in series so you don't fry the beeper when you unlock the door and the voltage reverses).
.
My wife has an Accord and parks in a covered garage at work and the honk was really annoying her. So I installed a ding-dong unit (from Radio Shack) and mounted it on the door jamb of the left rear door. It's "outside" the car so it's easy to hear but is protected from the weather. It's been there 3 years now and still works. The only unusual side-effect is that if you push down the front door lock knob while inside the car it will lock all the doors, making the "ding-dong" go "ding-dong".
PS - the "ding-dong" is not a simple mod, as it requires constant power and a momentary trigger. But you could use a standard piezo beeper and just parallel the lock wires (with a diode in series so you don't fry the beeper when you unlock the door and the voltage reverses).
.