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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:09 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by THAT K1D' date='Mar 15 2007, 10:28 AM
well i already got all the wiring an everything done inside the doors, i also ripped off all my plastic crape that was on the door because it was falling off and it looked nasty anyways so i plan on dynamattting the entire car door. ill be doing this all soon, maybe sunday so ill have some pics of my whole setup.
That white/clear plastic is a moisture barrier, keeping water from getting into the cabin of the car. Do not completely remove it, as you will get yourself into trouble down the road. If it is falling apart, repair or replace it. Realize, water will get into the door itself, usually through the window opening; do you really want your door panels rotting out or getting moldy? Just some food for thought. ;-)
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 11:16 AM
  #22  
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shit lol ill order some more plastics on monday the person who had the car before cut it al up to put some crappy speakers into the car so it looked bad an i ripped it off so did you put dynamat on top of the the plastic stuff then?
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 11:32 AM
  #23  
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From: Cary
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[quote name='THAT K1D' date='Mar 18 2007, 02:16 PM']shit lol
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 12:39 PM
  #24  
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If the Dynamat is properly installed you can just remove the plastic. I took my plastic off and many in over many cars and installed Dynamat with no problems.

I would never put the mat on top of the plastic... what's the point of doing that? You might as well just remove it, as its doing just about nothing to help the sound in the car.

Just install the Dynamat on the door its more that enough protection from the elements. You really don't need to have both.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 12:59 PM
  #25  
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I used the dynamat to form a barier where the white plastic was. I just installed one large piece over the entire opening where the white plastic was. Should form a better seal than the white plastic did. Also, I agree with John. If the dynamat isn't directly applied to the metal, it cannot absorb the vibrations properly.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 02:15 PM
  #26  
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From: Cary
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Originally Posted by sireousrex' date='Mar 18 2007, 03:59 PM
I used the dynamat to form a barier where the white plastic was. I just installed one large piece over the entire opening where the white plastic was. Should form a better seal than the white plastic did. Also, I agree with John. If the dynamat isn't directly applied to the metal, it cannot absorb the vibrations properly.
Good point. Hmmmmmmm I guess it is too late to bring it back to the installer and complain. Maybe over the summer when I have nothing better to do, I'll go in and reinstall the stuff properly.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 02:33 PM
  #27  
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Yeah, a door kit isn't too expensive and it is an easy enough job. Take pics and let us see them when you do.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 05:32 PM
  #28  
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From: Cary
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Originally Posted by sireousrex' date='Mar 18 2007, 05:33 PM
Yeah, a door kit isn't too expensive and it is an easy enough job. Take pics and let us see them when you do.
Sireousrex:

Eh?!!!!!!!! Door kit from Dynamat? I guess I better do a little more homework, because I didn't see any such thing in the past, not that I was actually looking either.

BTW, when you did your door, how did you handle the access holes in the door to the inner door? Did you just cover them over, in hopes that you would not have to deal with them for a long time? My understanding of the Dynamat is that its adhesive is a permanent one, unlike the adhesive they use along the edge of the plastic, hence it would not pull back once installed. On the other hand, the adhesive holding the original plastic is supposed to stay tacky for the life of the car, to easily remove and reinstall when needing to access the inner door. Am I incorrect about the Dynamat's adhesion?

I am sensitive to this issue, as my "other" car, my Toyota Avalon will be requiring me to repair/replace one of the rear window's regulator and/or motor. I have already been in there a couple of times in the past trying to get it to work without replacement, each time working for a couple of months, but this time I just need to get the job finished correctly.

On a side note, but related, do you have standoff rings for your speaker, and if so, did you also put the Dynamat over them. Before or after you put the speaker back into the door. In my installation (as you can see from my earlier pictures), the installer put Dynamat all over the rings AFTER the installation of the speaker. Given the fact they are plastic, is there any advantage, other than looks to put the Dynamat on/over them?
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 05:55 PM
  #29  
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Yes, Dynamat has door kits, there was a GB on them at one time, but I think it is now over

The dynamay adhesive is kind of permanent but can be removed. So, if you had to get in the hole, you could get the mat off, but would have to replace it with new as it would most likely tear when you pull it off. Dynamat isn't that expensive, so for me even if I had to replace it, the cost of a new sheet is not a big deal.

I used a 3/4" MDF spacer for my speakers. I painted them, as you should or the MDF will crumble when wet, and did not coat it with mat. I see no reason to coat the spacers with mat as I don't think they will be resonating much at all if any. I coated mine with undercoating spray which may be of some beneift.
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 07:59 PM
  #30  
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Thanks a lot for all of the good input. Hopefully, K1D has been following this discussion, and if he did everything you said, he won't be getting any plastic.

BTW, don't hold your breath for me to do it and get the pics posted. It will be a couple of months before I get around to it. First priority will be to put my new WLAURENT V1 sub in, and hopefully tackle the subsequent rattles. And then I have my Toyota to deal with. Can't get that back window down right now, and need to take then entire regulator/motor assembly out to figure out where it is hanging up. Have you thought of posting pics of your Dynamat'ed doors?

Again, thanks, for clarifying everything.
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