Dynamat
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,257
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From: Plano, TX
Thanks.
Oh and I'm using the eDead v1SE stuff (kinda obvious since it doesn't say Dynamat all over it, haha) and didn't wear gloves, only cut I got was when I was trying to pull up a small bit that had stuck where it shouldn't have and my hand hit an ajacent piece of metal... small cut no biggie. The gloves seemed cumbersome and intrusive.
I think I'm gunna do the doors next, but not sure if I want to leave the hole for the plastic piece on the door or just remove that and move my crossover to the trunk w/ the amp (I got some 4 conductor monster wire to run to the door so I'll prob move the crossover since it'll be just as easy.)
-Doug
Oh and I'm using the eDead v1SE stuff (kinda obvious since it doesn't say Dynamat all over it, haha) and didn't wear gloves, only cut I got was when I was trying to pull up a small bit that had stuck where it shouldn't have and my hand hit an ajacent piece of metal... small cut no biggie. The gloves seemed cumbersome and intrusive.
I think I'm gunna do the doors next, but not sure if I want to leave the hole for the plastic piece on the door or just remove that and move my crossover to the trunk w/ the amp (I got some 4 conductor monster wire to run to the door so I'll prob move the crossover since it'll be just as easy.)
-Doug
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,447
Likes: 16
From: West Coast baby
Guys for those of you who HAVE NOT dynamatted your trunk, this should be your TOP PRIORITY.
I actually did mine LAST which is ironic since I think it made the biggest difference.
For me, I started with the hardest doing the floorboards and tranny tunnel by removing both seats. Then I moved to the doors when I installed my Focal speakers and just this past Friday, I did my entire rear trunk area.
On Sunday night, I finally did the trunklid and WOW, what a difference! When you knock on my trunklid it feels like a solid oak tree rather than sheetmetal. When you close the trunk it's a SOLID THUD vs. chink....haha
I ended up using almost (x2) Bulk packs of Dynamat so this was as pretty pricey and heavy project but my s2k is pretty quiet now
I have pics that I'll post later but just wanted to share this with you guys!
rick
I actually did mine LAST which is ironic since I think it made the biggest difference.
For me, I started with the hardest doing the floorboards and tranny tunnel by removing both seats. Then I moved to the doors when I installed my Focal speakers and just this past Friday, I did my entire rear trunk area.
On Sunday night, I finally did the trunklid and WOW, what a difference! When you knock on my trunklid it feels like a solid oak tree rather than sheetmetal. When you close the trunk it's a SOLID THUD vs. chink....haha
I ended up using almost (x2) Bulk packs of Dynamat so this was as pretty pricey and heavy project but my s2k is pretty quiet now
I have pics that I'll post later but just wanted to share this with you guys!
rick
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Just curious about the doors...
Do you need to cover the openings with the deadening material? And what about the inside of the outer panel?
I'm just thinking of the dynamat demo with the ringer.... the one demonstrating a little patch of dynamat pretty much deadens the ringer. They didn't need to cover the entire ringer... but it would probably reduce the bell to just the "click" of the striker.
Do you need to cover the openings with the deadening material? And what about the inside of the outer panel?
I'm just thinking of the dynamat demo with the ringer.... the one demonstrating a little patch of dynamat pretty much deadens the ringer. They didn't need to cover the entire ringer... but it would probably reduce the bell to just the "click" of the striker.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,447
Likes: 16
From: West Coast baby
Originally Posted by TwinC,Jun 14 2006, 08:54 AM
Just curious about the doors...
Do you need to cover the openings with the deadening material? And what about the inside of the outer panel?
I'm just thinking of the dynamat demo with the ringer.... the one demonstrating a little patch of dynamat pretty much deadens the ringer. They didn't need to cover the entire ringer... but it would probably reduce the bell to just the "click" of the striker.
Do you need to cover the openings with the deadening material? And what about the inside of the outer panel?
I'm just thinking of the dynamat demo with the ringer.... the one demonstrating a little patch of dynamat pretty much deadens the ringer. They didn't need to cover the entire ringer... but it would probably reduce the bell to just the "click" of the striker.
The reason the dynamat is so effective on doors is essentially you are creating an enclosure for the speaker by sealing it in the door cavity similiar to when you build a box for a subwoofer.
My doors after the dynamat job on just the surface when from a cheap hollow Honda door to a THUD type Mercedes sealed door. It's an amazing transformation. I can really feel the weight of the door increase too. If you were to put another whole layer of dynamat inside the door panel metal, that would help even more but to me that's overkill...let me know if you attempt this!
rick
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,616
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From: Pasadena / Orange County
Nsxnext1 has the double layers of dynamat in his doors. He said he can tell a difference between covering both the inside of the sheetmetal as well as the usual inner skins. His is the only S that I have personally heard with Dynamatted doors, but when you shut his doors, it sounds like a Rolls. Very, very solid.