OK, so after living w/ my KRX2s and Solid4 system for a bit I started to crave more so I called the folks at Orca (importer for Focal). Lo and behold they have had similar questions regarding matching the Focal amps w/ the KRX3 and KRX2 splits. They actually have a diagram for mod'ing the x-over to run in bi-amp mode. It involves cutting 2 traces and soldering in new leads for the tweeter's amp feed.

Has anyone else tried this? Sounds like an awesome modification by I don't want to go hacking everything up for little benefit. Here's a 'drawering'...



-e

 

I've never done it, but my question would be, why not? There are a lot of benefits to bi-amping with few drawbacks. If you have the availability to bi-amp, go for it.

 

If you're going to bi-amp anyway, why not ditch the crossovers completely
and run active - looks like both your amp and headunit could potentially
do it. get the PXA-H100 imprint audio processor, and you can do time
correction as well as crossover functions to get better phase alignment
between your woofers and tweeters (as well as left and right).

 

Switching to a fully active setup is one of the best SQ upgrades you can make.

Keep in mind that in most passive systems the tweeter can't handle as much power as the woofers (I've heard something like the tweeter receives 1/10 of the total power sent to the xover - but that's not a guarantee).

 

thanks folks! i was wondering that too, but have heard that the KRX2's can be tricky to get matched up running active. anyone got experience w/ them?

i have no slope control, etc. w/ the amp - just basic gain and x-over... and very little control w/ the 305. if i get the imprint processor that will surely do all that but not sure i want to shell out the dough and tear the HU area up again.

 

That PXA-h100 looks like a handy tool. A primitive kind of active crossover like what we use in home and pro-audio. I was wondering when something like this would be produced for car audio.

 

The amount of power sent to the tweeter is dependent on the music. If a 200hz tone is 10db down from a 6khz tone, the tweeter would then be getting 10x as much power as the woofer, assuming equal sensitivities between woofer and tweeter.

Moral of the story, blanket statements like that are simply not true.

 

Ok, you're right. Throw 120W into that tweeter and see how it stands up


I suppose I should have clarified for those who decide to pick arguments for the hell of it:

Keep in mind that in most passive systems the tweeter can't handle as much power as the woofers (I've heard something like the tweeter receives 1/10 of the total power sent to the xover - but that's not a guarantee).






Note, Looneybomber, that I stated the TWEETER CANNOT HANDLE AS MUCH POWER AS THE WOOFER. If you decide to send too much power to it (when running active, it's easy), you will blow the tweeter. Thus, while the woofer might only be running on 10W due to the music you're listening to (hardly likely given the range of frequencies covered, but ok) - but the tweeter cannot handle the same 120W that the woofer can handle (again, depending on the frequencies). We're not discussing a pure 200Hz signal, we're not discussing a pure 6kHz signal. We're discussing music. I have yet to hear music with a pure, single frequency signal. But, then, wtf do I know anyway - I just make blanket statements regarding the tuning of overall power output from an amplifier.

 

[QUOTE=Neutered Sputniks,Jun 27 2009, 04:05 AM] Ok, you're right.