Help with Amp's Crossover Adjustments...
Stock MY05 HU feeding PAC OEM LOC, feeding Phoenix Gold Xenon 100.4 which will be used to power some Polk Audio 6.5" components. I will be bi-amping the components.
The components' passive crossovers are 2.6kHz 2nd order High & Low Pass. The Phoenix Gold amplifier has a high and low pass crossover, with the frequency adjustable from 40HZ to 400HZ with a 24dB per octave slope. The high and low pass crossovers have seperate on/off buttons and when BOTH are set to ON, a bandpass filter is created for the set of channels.
With that said, I'm curious how I should set the crossovers on my amp. Do I leave the amp's crossovers off so the MMC6500's crossovers see an unprocessed signal from the amp? And does this result in the mid/woofer running in full-range mode then?
Or would I be better served by turning on the high pass crossover (eliminating low frequencies) on the amp for the channels driving the mid/woofer to something like 70Hz, 78Hz, 87Hz, 99Hz, or higher? For those interested, or if it would provide some valuable information, refer to page 8 of the manual: ftp://208.187.38.55/Phoenix_Gold/Manuals/...onampmanual.pdf
Finally, the PAC OEM2 LOC has gains to be adjusted. Should I just leave these at half-way, which I believe is how it came by default from the factory?
I'd really like some input.
The components' passive crossovers are 2.6kHz 2nd order High & Low Pass. The Phoenix Gold amplifier has a high and low pass crossover, with the frequency adjustable from 40HZ to 400HZ with a 24dB per octave slope. The high and low pass crossovers have seperate on/off buttons and when BOTH are set to ON, a bandpass filter is created for the set of channels.
With that said, I'm curious how I should set the crossovers on my amp. Do I leave the amp's crossovers off so the MMC6500's crossovers see an unprocessed signal from the amp? And does this result in the mid/woofer running in full-range mode then?
Or would I be better served by turning on the high pass crossover (eliminating low frequencies) on the amp for the channels driving the mid/woofer to something like 70Hz, 78Hz, 87Hz, 99Hz, or higher? For those interested, or if it would provide some valuable information, refer to page 8 of the manual: ftp://208.187.38.55/Phoenix_Gold/Manuals/...onampmanual.pdf
Finally, the PAC OEM2 LOC has gains to be adjusted. Should I just leave these at half-way, which I believe is how it came by default from the factory?
I'd really like some input.
A few questions:
1) Are you running a sub?
2) What is the frequency response of the components?
3) What are you trying to accomplish (unload bass to sub / get bass out of these components)?
If you are running a sub, I would x-over the components between 80-100HTZ (depends on how the speakers handle the frequencies), then let the sub take over from there down. Personally, on my setup, I would cross them over at 80HTZ and let the sub take over at around 78-80.
Check out a search (it also may be in the FAQ's), but TR-S2K has put up something on how to set the LOC settings. I have never dealt with them, so I have no idea
.
Also, there is a WHOLE section in the FAQ (written by PJK3) on how to tune your system to your preferences (music type and listening style). Check it out. VERY helpful.
John
1) Are you running a sub?
2) What is the frequency response of the components?
3) What are you trying to accomplish (unload bass to sub / get bass out of these components)?
If you are running a sub, I would x-over the components between 80-100HTZ (depends on how the speakers handle the frequencies), then let the sub take over from there down. Personally, on my setup, I would cross them over at 80HTZ and let the sub take over at around 78-80.
Check out a search (it also may be in the FAQ's), but TR-S2K has put up something on how to set the LOC settings. I have never dealt with them, so I have no idea
.Also, there is a WHOLE section in the FAQ (written by PJK3) on how to tune your system to your preferences (music type and listening style). Check it out. VERY helpful.
John
John,
Thanks for the reply.
1.) No subwoofer and don't envision one unless I'm unhappy with this setup.
2.) Overall frequency response of the components: 43Hz - 25kHz
3.) My "system upgrade" goal was to get move volume and to hopefully get some more bass from these components compared to the stock components found in my '05.
Thanks for the reply.
1.) No subwoofer and don't envision one unless I'm unhappy with this setup.
2.) Overall frequency response of the components: 43Hz - 25kHz
3.) My "system upgrade" goal was to get move volume and to hopefully get some more bass from these components compared to the stock components found in my '05.
Well, I would definitely not cross is over below the 43HTZ threshold of the speakers. I would try different settings, and see how the speakers handle it. Different speakers handle different frequencies differently. I would think that 43HTZ is too low for "mid-bass" drivers. I would try out the 80HTZ range first and see how you like it. Then just tweak the setting while the music is going, to give you an idea of what it is effecting.
I would not recommend turning on the LPF. The Low-pass I think is mainly for subs (I think). You should test how the speakers handle the lower end before settling on a specific frequency. I would turn the volume up as loud as you would ever listen to it, the start clicking the HPF from 400 down. When the bass starts to get away from you (speakers going crazy and not sounding good), then this should be your absolute minimum frequency. Click back up from there until you like how it sounds.
Do the same thing with the sensitivity (input level) FIRST. This will set the "ceiling" for the amp. If it has a "clip" light, turn volume up as loud as you will EVER put it, start rotating the sensitivity knob from 8 to .2 . As soon as the amp starts clipping on a regular basis, stop there and dial it back a tad (so next to no clipping). If there is no "clip" light, you will have to listen for distortion instead of looking at the light. This wiil set the new "ceiling" for the amp, then you can tune the HPF to the frequencies the speakers can handle.
John
I would not recommend turning on the LPF. The Low-pass I think is mainly for subs (I think). You should test how the speakers handle the lower end before settling on a specific frequency. I would turn the volume up as loud as you would ever listen to it, the start clicking the HPF from 400 down. When the bass starts to get away from you (speakers going crazy and not sounding good), then this should be your absolute minimum frequency. Click back up from there until you like how it sounds.
Do the same thing with the sensitivity (input level) FIRST. This will set the "ceiling" for the amp. If it has a "clip" light, turn volume up as loud as you will EVER put it, start rotating the sensitivity knob from 8 to .2 . As soon as the amp starts clipping on a regular basis, stop there and dial it back a tad (so next to no clipping). If there is no "clip" light, you will have to listen for distortion instead of looking at the light. This wiil set the new "ceiling" for the amp, then you can tune the HPF to the frequencies the speakers can handle.
John
I have the same speakers and found that before I installed my sub, running them at full range (letting the x-over from the speakers do their thing) I would usually be able to play them at most any volume level without issue. Only on rare instances where I'd push my amplifier to the point of clipping would I have a problem.
Of course, now that I have my subs installed I cut the components off @ 50hz and roll my subs off around 70hz. :-)
Of course, now that I have my subs installed I cut the components off @ 50hz and roll my subs off around 70hz. :-)
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