SlowTeg

Well, I just got finished installing the alarm in my '06 s2k. I installed an extra DEI motion sensor, and it seems to be working fine, with one big exception. When arming the alarm, it has an extra delayed chirp, which normally signals that a door is open when the system is armed. I used the install instructions from WLaurent, which was a tremendous help (thanks!), but I'm not sure what the problem is.

I followed the directions exactly, and noticed that one wire was not used from his original 700T instructions. The White/blue has "no use" according to the alarm installation manual, so it was left out. Is the extra chirp just a problem with the later model AP2's, or did I mess up something? I'm wondering if the dome light could be tripping the system somehow, but can't figure it out.

The alarm does trigger when a door is opened or the trunk is opened when the alarm is armed, but I can't figure out why there's the extra chirp. Did others disable this "feature" via the features menu of the alarm? I didn't go into the features menu, and just left the default settings. Should I set the "Door Trigger Error Chirp" to OFF? Default it's ON. Anyone with any help/advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Here are the alarm instructions I used: http://darksidesubs.com/alarm/S2000ALARM.htm

Edit: Update, the alarm has seemingly "fixed" itself overnight, and I'm no longer getting an extra chirp as if a door was open. Very strange.. hopefully the problem doesn't return..

Edit2: It does seem to periodically have the alarm go off immediately after arming it periodically though. Maybe 1/10 times thus far? I saw a thread with this same problem, but the person never said whether the issue was resolved or not.

SlowTeg

To add some more info.. It does have a proximity sensor. It seems like I do periodically have the alarm go off immediately after arming, not sure what the cause of this could be.

I just quadruple checked the wiring, and it seems like the only wires that could be causing the problem are the GREEN and BLUE wires on the main harness of the alarm. There are basically only two wires connected right now that monitor door/entrance triggers. The green goes to the black/white on the keyless entry module, and the blue goes to the blue/black on the closest connector. Is it possible honda changed the pinouts/wiring colors on the later model s2k's?

SlowTeg

Update: The extra chirp is gone, but it does seem to periodically have the alarm go off immediately after arming it periodically. Maybe 1/10 times thus far? I saw a thread with this same problem, but the person never said whether the issue was resolved or not. Anyone had this issue and resolved it?

SlowTeg

Ok, so the extra chirp for the bypass notification came back, and upon further tinkering just now, I'm thinking that I need to go into the program menu and disable this feature or turn it off, due to the dome light being on, or something else causing the door trigger sensor to think the door isn't closed.

I diagnosed this by disconnecting the blue wire (which triggers the trunk release) and arming the alarm, and I still get the delayed second chirp on arming. So, this must mean that the delayed chirp is caused by the green wire/door trigger supplying a ground when arming the alarm, and thus the alarm thinking a door is open.

The question I now have is, is this the issue? Did everyone with a 700T/727T have to disable the bypass notification chirp via the programming menu? I guess if I don't here from anyone I'll likely just give it a shot, but it'd be nice to know that it is needed to prevent that damn delayed chirp, due to the dome light being on or some other circuit providing a ground on the door trigger wire.

Also, does anyone know what the red wire/alarm defeat wire does? According to WLAURENT's instructions he says to ground this wire, but it seems useless/does nothing unless you actually hook it up to the passenger side + for the door actuator.

SlowTeg

Well, I went into the programming menu, and set the "Door Trigger Error Chirp" to "OFF" by pressing the unlock key on the remote, but the f-ing POS STILL has the delayed second chirp when arming the alarm!!?!#$ I'm so pissed, and don't have a clue what could be wrong. Possibly a defective alarm?

To verify that I was doing the programming right, I changed the "Chirps" setting to "OFF" periodically, and it worked. I switched it back to on. So, it seems like for whatever reason the delayed door trigger error chirp setting isn't "catching" or being saved by the alarm.

Anyone that's familiar w/ alarms, is this a defective alarm? I've installed a couple alarms before, and never came across a defective one, so I guess I'm due.. What a POS, I'm getting close to ripping the alarm out of the car and f-ing smashing it to pieces. I bought the alarm off ebay, so doubt it carries any warranty, but I guess I can check. TIA.

Someone feel free to respond, so I don't feel like I'm talking to myself..

Edit: Went back out into the garage, and now when arming the alarm, the alarm gets triggered and the siren goes off and lights flash almost immediately. I couldn't be more lost and pissed at this point. I'm going to yank the fuse and just leave it until the weekend at this point, or I'll end up smashing the f'ing thing. I still might just smash it this weekend.

gumbey75

The prox sensor is making go off, since you have to share a trigger. Lets say you connect it to the doors and once the doors close the prox makes it seem that a door is open. Try to diode isolate the trigger and the pros sensor. Or whatever the prox sensor is connected to.

SlowTeg

gumbey75,

Thanks a lot for the response! Sorry, could you explain a little more how the prox sensor is causing the second delayed chirp when arming the alarm? You're saying the prox sensor and door trigger share the same trigger, and there's some interference? Would disconnecting the prox sensor theoretically then prevent this from occurring (just as a test)?

After some googling and further thought, so basically the problem is with feedback through the system, which is confusing the alarm? So basically, I need a 1amp diode wired onto the green wire (negative door trigger of the alarm), correct? Would I also need one for the trunk trigger (blue wire negative trigger as well)?

I very much appreciate the help, and didn't think about the feedback/using diodes. Thanks again!

Edit: I'll try to draw up a diagram and post what I'm thinking/trying to do. After more reading, the big question I have is whether the prox sensor and alarm brain share the same trigger circuit (despite being on separate plugs), and thus need their own diodes, so a total of 4 diodes. One diode between the door trigger wire (green) to car wire, one diode between the trunk trigger wire (blue) to car wire, one each right in front of the prox sensor blue and green wires, totalling 4. Does that sound right?

SlowTeg

Just a quick update.. I just unplugged the prox sensor to see if that fixed anything, and no luck.

It's very strange, because the car was arming normally (without a delayed chirp) right after turning off the car, but then if I disarmed the alarm and rearmed it, the alarm would go off immediately. This happened without fail a number of times.

Now, the alarm seems to be functioning "normally" (it doesn't go off at times after arming), but it has a delayed chirp.

I'm thinking the wise thing would be to try and get things all working without the prox sensor (I've left it unplugged), and then add it in after I get everything working. Perhaps I'll just install diodes first on the green and blue trigger wires and see if that fixes things. If that doesn't work, then I'm fresh out of ideas and I'm thinking the alarm is defective.

gumbey75

That delayed chirp is telling you a door is open. So if the prox sensor is not causing it. I would suggest looking what the +/- as well as instant trigger are hooked up to. + trigger is Purple - is Green and Instant is Blue. Assuming Hornet is a DEI alarm.(Which have all the same colors on the harnesses)

Purple should not be going to anything since the dome light goes off the door triggers.
Green should be connected to Black/White.
IF the Blue wire is hooked up to your trunk it should be Blue/Black or if hooked up to your hood is should be Yellow/Red.

gumbey75

Now once you verify that get a DMM and put your red lead to the green wire and the black to a good ground, With the door closed it should read 0 volts and open 12 volts. Same for the Blue wire. And do this again with your alarm set to ARM and see what the meter tells you AFTER you arm it. see if your getting back feed on any one of those wires. Should give you a better idea of what is going wrong.