did you solder in your wires or did you use quick connects or t connects?

 

Thanks gumbey, I'll give that a shot tomorrow or Sunday at latest and report back with the multimeter results.

Yes, hornet is DEI. I'm only using two trigger wires for the alarm. Like you said, the green and blue negative triggers. The GREEN is going to the Black/white stripe on the keyless entry model harness, and the BLUE is going to the blue/black stripe on the 22-pin harness. One other question, does the RED/disarm defeat need to be grounded? I originally had it grounded, but disconnected it, and it doesn't seem to matter.

I'm pretty damn sure they're wired up correctly, because the triggers do in fact work. For example, I arm the alarm, and then test the door trigger by opening the door. It triggers the alarm. I do this via simply pushing the door switch, ARM the alarm (where it has the delayed chirp) and then I release the door switch, and BAM, alarm goes off. To test the blue trigger wire/trunk trigger, I arm the alarm, then use my key to pop the trunk, and bam, alarm goes off instantly.

So, the triggers are seemingly wired up correctly, but I can't figure out why the alarm thinks one of the triggers is grounded when arming the alarm. I guess the multimeter will tell me this. I was thinking of installing diodes (picked up a few) on the GREEN and BLUE trigger wires for the alarm, and I'll try installing those if I'm getting some feedback. I've disconnected the prox sensor, as to try and isolate the problem.

 

The green/blue wires are connected right now by me stripping back some insulation on the factory harness wire, and wrapping the green/blue wires around the exposed wire several times. Ya, I realize I should probably solder these, but I've been disconnecting/reconnecting them a lot as of late to test things, so I didn't solder them.

 

Hmmm sounds like everything is fine and connected right. If all else fails you can turn the Door error chirp feature off. You can do this by going into the programming mode.

 

The odd thing gumbey was that I did try this, but the delayed chirp on arm happened despite me programming it (and I'm sure I programmed it). I'm starting to think I just got a defective unit. Will have to tinker w/ it tomorrow, didn't have time today. Thanks again for the suggestions!

 

Try disconnecting the dome light. Did disconnecting the prox sensor make any difference? Did diode isolating the trigger wires make any difference? Did you hook up the starter kill? If so, where did you get ignition from?

How are you verifying you've got the correct wires in the car? Digital mutimeter?

You are correct the white/blue has no function. It's typically used as an activation input for remote start.

 

You should sit in the car with the mutimeter hooked up to the trigger wires and monitor them to see whats exactly happening.

Have you disconnected all trigger wires and see if it still does it? I wonder if you've got your hood pin programmed incorrectly.

 

take a video so we can see exactly what its doing if you can.

 

Edit: I got lazy this weekend and didn't test it more.

With a multimeter, is there an easy way to distinguish a true ground from a lack of positive voltage? How I used to do it is set it to DC (of course), and hook the positive terminal of the multimeter to +12v, and the negative then to then blue or green wire?

 

lack of positive voltage? sure, you connect your suspect 12v and connect the negative probe to anything solid metal in the car. (like the exposed metal under the dash or the ground circle hidden a little high up in the kick panel)

once you've verifed a true 12v source. (i recommend one of the open male slots in the fuse panel) you connect your neg terminal to your negative trigger wires, and begin your test. When they have ground your multimeter will read 12v