How-To: Wiring new door speakers
09-15-2004, 08:06 PM
#23
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Because of the tight fit under the dash, I started from the door side of the
grommit instead of under the dash, as I documented in my install "how-to"
here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...c=229179&st=25
When the hanger pushes against the side of the grommet it lifts the grommet
safely away from the wires and gives you an idea where to cut.
KY (jelly not loquid) is definitely the answer . When you pick it up at the store though, don't
laugh nervously and explain that it is for your car - it just makes it
worse. Take it from me.
Gives people a whole new set of images, I
guess.
I like the grommit approach for the cleanness of the install, but got chills when you mentioned that it was one of the ones with the lip. I accidentally
popped the firewall grommit off when running power, and it took 2 frelling
hours to get that lip back on all around. Maybe there is a trick to it,
maybe it is my natural stupidity, but I had a terrible time with it and never want to go there again.
As for a snake with the hook at the end - having run hundreds, perhaps thousands of miles of network cable, the hook at the end is vital. On tight jobs like these a protective double-hook is not possible, and I use a single hook. If you properly lay the hook, dress the end, and lube the cable so it doesn't pull the dressing off, it shouldn't be an issue. OTOH maybe I just have more practice; but I would warn first warn people about pulling unlubed cable.
"the windows fully down, they made the process of putting the grommets back in so much harder" I forgot on both doors too - I just rested the panels against the door hooked up the swith, and used the switch to raise them
FYI - the Driver door switch will not raise the passenger window without the passenger switch hooked up.
I ran 10ga to the xover and (2) 12ga through the door to the drivers - probably overkill for 180 watts, but 'too much is never enough' is my motto.
-JD
grommit instead of under the dash, as I documented in my install "how-to"
here:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...c=229179&st=25
When the hanger pushes against the side of the grommet it lifts the grommet
safely away from the wires and gives you an idea where to cut.
KY (jelly not loquid) is definitely the answer . When you pick it up at the store though, don't
laugh nervously and explain that it is for your car - it just makes it
worse. Take it from me.
Gives people a whole new set of images, I guess.
I like the grommit approach for the cleanness of the install, but got chills when you mentioned that it was one of the ones with the lip. I accidentally
popped the firewall grommit off when running power, and it took 2 frelling
hours to get that lip back on all around. Maybe there is a trick to it,
maybe it is my natural stupidity, but I had a terrible time with it and never want to go there again.
As for a snake with the hook at the end - having run hundreds, perhaps thousands of miles of network cable, the hook at the end is vital. On tight jobs like these a protective double-hook is not possible, and I use a single hook. If you properly lay the hook, dress the end, and lube the cable so it doesn't pull the dressing off, it shouldn't be an issue. OTOH maybe I just have more practice; but I would warn first warn people about pulling unlubed cable.
"the windows fully down, they made the process of putting the grommets back in so much harder" I forgot on both doors too - I just rested the panels against the door hooked up the swith, and used the switch to raise them
FYI - the Driver door switch will not raise the passenger window without the passenger switch hooked up.I ran 10ga to the xover and (2) 12ga through the door to the drivers - probably overkill for 180 watts, but 'too much is never enough' is my motto.
-JD
12-07-2004, 04:43 PM
#24
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after numerous tries and cutting up my hands, i'm REVIVING THIS THREAD! just wanted to help those who consider doing this soon. since it's cooler at this time of season, i think it's the best time to do this. thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. 
05-03-2006, 07:11 PM
#26
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I used a Coathanger With the hook cut off and stretched flat with some lube.
________________________________ <somehting like that.
then you keep bending it and working it threw the grommet while the grommet is still in the door. now you have the hanger threw the gommet. Now tape the speaker cable to the side of hanger that is inside the car. Lube it up like theres no tomarrow and pull it threw the gommet from the door side of the hanger.
Thats how I did it and it was sooooo easy once I did the lube trick.
________________________________ <somehting like that.
then you keep bending it and working it threw the grommet while the grommet is still in the door. now you have the hanger threw the gommet. Now tape the speaker cable to the side of hanger that is inside the car. Lube it up like theres no tomarrow and pull it threw the gommet from the door side of the hanger.
Thats how I did it and it was sooooo easy once I did the lube trick.
03-18-2007, 07:52 PM
#27
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man. I was planning on installing my own system until this little mess began. lol. Im scared. Luckily I can put it off for about another month and a half until school is over FOREVER!
03-22-2007, 01:13 AM
#28
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I'm incredibly frustrated by this post and the fact that it's listed from the FAQ. (I'm not blaming the poster, just the post).
I spent 30 minutes following the detailed guide and pictures provided above. Removing the grommets was incredibly difficult, and required tremendous pushing, squeezing, hand-cutting, etc. to do. After 30 minutes of struggling with what was reportedly a very easy way to run wire, I decided to give up, put the grommets back, and use a coat-hanger.
Total coat-hanger install time: 5 minutes. No joke. And that's with a break for tea in the middle.
Save yourself some time -- avoid the grommeting and do the following:
1) Straighten half a coat hanger
2) Remove your kick-panel and the foam block behind it
3) Remove your woofer and the basket behind it
4) Tape your speaker wire to the end of the coat hanger. Taper the tape job so it pulls without catching on anything.
5) Rub wiring lubricant over the coat hanger and wires. This step makes it much easier. I'm told you shouldn't use K-Y Jelly because it erodes the wiring insulation (thanks, DarkKnight!)
6) Push the coat hanger gently into the rubber grommet in the door, and guide it to its exit point behind the kick panel.
7) When the coat hanger is about to push out through the other end of the grommet, cut a slit in the electrical tape that it's pushing against so that the coat hanger can come out.
8) Pull the wires through, and break for tea.
Seriously. It's that easy. No cut hands, no lone tears when you can't push the grommets back in, etc. Search for other posts on the grommet method -- plenty of folks are having trouble with it.
Before I did the coat hanger method, I was put off because a bunch of posts implied it was hard. It was much easier than advertised. I dare say it's a breeze. If you avoid the grommets.
I spent 30 minutes following the detailed guide and pictures provided above. Removing the grommets was incredibly difficult, and required tremendous pushing, squeezing, hand-cutting, etc. to do. After 30 minutes of struggling with what was reportedly a very easy way to run wire, I decided to give up, put the grommets back, and use a coat-hanger.
Total coat-hanger install time: 5 minutes. No joke. And that's with a break for tea in the middle.
Save yourself some time -- avoid the grommeting and do the following:
1) Straighten half a coat hanger
2) Remove your kick-panel and the foam block behind it
3) Remove your woofer and the basket behind it
4) Tape your speaker wire to the end of the coat hanger. Taper the tape job so it pulls without catching on anything.
5) Rub wiring lubricant over the coat hanger and wires. This step makes it much easier. I'm told you shouldn't use K-Y Jelly because it erodes the wiring insulation (thanks, DarkKnight!)
6) Push the coat hanger gently into the rubber grommet in the door, and guide it to its exit point behind the kick panel.
7) When the coat hanger is about to push out through the other end of the grommet, cut a slit in the electrical tape that it's pushing against so that the coat hanger can come out.
8) Pull the wires through, and break for tea.
Seriously. It's that easy. No cut hands, no lone tears when you can't push the grommets back in, etc. Search for other posts on the grommet method -- plenty of folks are having trouble with it.
Before I did the coat hanger method, I was put off because a bunch of posts implied it was hard. It was much easier than advertised. I dare say it's a breeze. If you avoid the grommets.
03-22-2007, 12:30 PM
#29
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That sounds about right... except you should never use K-Y for this(even though they say its water based), as it will slowly break down the insulation of the wires inside the rubber grommet.
03-22-2007, 01:16 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by darkknight1999' date='Mar 22 2007, 01:30 PM
That sounds about right... except you should never use K-Y for this(even though they say its water based), as it will slowly break down the insulation of the wires inside the rubber grommet.
Thanks for the tip.