Kappa Installa finally done, pics inside
Ok, I got the speakers yesterday and decided to compare, install and take some pictures. I think I did a good job on comparing and taking some pictures, which was 66 percent of the job
. Install... I am not so sure about that. Anyway here we go, Mr Andy Kurum, his friend Oscar and his doors battle it out, here at the famous garage.
.
First of all lemme take a picture of this beatifull box, I was sooo happy when this arrived.
Then, I opened the box and found these in it, I am amazed since these are my first set of aftermarket speakers which are components and they have their own crossovers. By the way I never knew that the crossovers are this big.
Then I do the usual stuff , remove the door panel and remove the speaker baskets and tweeters. Stripped door looks like this.
Now we can do some comparing, look at that, the size difference between the stock and the infinity's is incredable
There is almost no size difference between the tweeters, actually the stock ones are heavier but when it comes to sound I tested them before I installed them using the facotry wiring and the sound level and quality is probably 3:1 for Infinity's favor.
My friend Oscar is amazed with japanese technology for the speaker wires and lock system used to create a socket type connection.
Oscar drilling my poor door inorder to make the holes bigger for bigger screws.
and this is how it looks like after it was installed.
Well, I installed the tweeters with the stock mounts and they are fine right now, the whole system looks stock after I put the door panales back where they were supposed to be. The only couple problems I have are these.
First of all when I roll my window down it hesitates (I belive rubs) to the speaker right at its lowest position. I thought If I would use the spacer looking metal things at the install this wouldent happen but it did so I need like 1/10 th of an inch more space. What about if I would cut and try to use the stock baskets? What did you guys do to install these without rubbing?
Well ofcourse the speakers are screaming for amplification, my stock speakers could handle up to level 21-22 out of 30 volume settings on my Alpine HU. Kappa's start getting distorted after 13-14. The crossovers are not installed, I am not sure if this makes a big difference since I never had them, but ofcourse they will be in when I put the JL 300/2 in there.
I learned something really important yesterday, that the biggest and baddest speaker does not neccasarily sounds the loudest. My stock speakers are 1/4th the size of these infinity and they were louder since they are made to work with 10-15 wattts RMS. Infinity's are huge but because of lack of power they are kinda quiet ( or really bad distorted) So basically what I learned is the best combination sounds the best, not a big amp or a strong HU or huge speakers.
What do you guys think about this install, did I make a mistake anywhere, can anyone explain the rubbing issue? Should I sand the window holding white plastic pice down?
. Install... I am not so sure about that. Anyway here we go, Mr Andy Kurum, his friend Oscar and his doors battle it out, here at the famous garage.
.First of all lemme take a picture of this beatifull box, I was sooo happy when this arrived.
Then, I opened the box and found these in it, I am amazed since these are my first set of aftermarket speakers which are components and they have their own crossovers. By the way I never knew that the crossovers are this big.
Then I do the usual stuff , remove the door panel and remove the speaker baskets and tweeters. Stripped door looks like this.
Now we can do some comparing, look at that, the size difference between the stock and the infinity's is incredable
There is almost no size difference between the tweeters, actually the stock ones are heavier but when it comes to sound I tested them before I installed them using the facotry wiring and the sound level and quality is probably 3:1 for Infinity's favor.
My friend Oscar is amazed with japanese technology for the speaker wires and lock system used to create a socket type connection.
Oscar drilling my poor door inorder to make the holes bigger for bigger screws.
and this is how it looks like after it was installed.
Well, I installed the tweeters with the stock mounts and they are fine right now, the whole system looks stock after I put the door panales back where they were supposed to be. The only couple problems I have are these.
First of all when I roll my window down it hesitates (I belive rubs) to the speaker right at its lowest position. I thought If I would use the spacer looking metal things at the install this wouldent happen but it did so I need like 1/10 th of an inch more space. What about if I would cut and try to use the stock baskets? What did you guys do to install these without rubbing?
Well ofcourse the speakers are screaming for amplification, my stock speakers could handle up to level 21-22 out of 30 volume settings on my Alpine HU. Kappa's start getting distorted after 13-14. The crossovers are not installed, I am not sure if this makes a big difference since I never had them, but ofcourse they will be in when I put the JL 300/2 in there.
I learned something really important yesterday, that the biggest and baddest speaker does not neccasarily sounds the loudest. My stock speakers are 1/4th the size of these infinity and they were louder since they are made to work with 10-15 wattts RMS. Infinity's are huge but because of lack of power they are kinda quiet ( or really bad distorted) So basically what I learned is the best combination sounds the best, not a big amp or a strong HU or huge speakers.
What do you guys think about this install, did I make a mistake anywhere, can anyone explain the rubbing issue? Should I sand the window holding white plastic pice down?
Andy.....were all friends here, so take this as advice. Install is no good. Time for a redo.
Ill tell you whats wrong based on this photo....
First of all, see the gap between the door and the woofer.......no good. Air leak will lead to poor bass response. Second....the was absolutely no need to drill into the door.
Here is what you have to do.
Take the stock speaker basket, and cut off the "basket" part.....leave just the ring. The kappas came with 2 6.5 inch foam "gaskets" Put those between the speaker and the ring. Then screw the speaker into the door using the STOCK screw holes.
THis is 100% why you are getting the window problem.
Sorry to be the bearer or bad news, but if you do it, do it right. Also, as a precaution, dont use power tools near speakers. If they slip, they put a nice hole in the cone.
Let me know if you need more help.
Ill tell you whats wrong based on this photo....
First of all, see the gap between the door and the woofer.......no good. Air leak will lead to poor bass response. Second....the was absolutely no need to drill into the door.
Here is what you have to do.
Take the stock speaker basket, and cut off the "basket" part.....leave just the ring. The kappas came with 2 6.5 inch foam "gaskets" Put those between the speaker and the ring. Then screw the speaker into the door using the STOCK screw holes.
THis is 100% why you are getting the window problem.
Sorry to be the bearer or bad news, but if you do it, do it right. Also, as a precaution, dont use power tools near speakers. If they slip, they put a nice hole in the cone.
Let me know if you need more help.
Hey I said at the beginnig that I did a good job on the pictures and comparison not Install
You know what, I was thinking of the same excat thing, thats why I asked if I should of use the stock baskets. I will do as you said, tonight, and I should have no rubbing and better bass response right?
Tnx for the help man, I dont know what I would do without you guys.
Oh and look at the little metal spacers, you cant say it was a bad idea, at the time it looked like a genius Idea to me. I was like
Ho-Ho-Ho I am the man, I solved the rubbing problem
the only problem was my physics (air might not travel if you give it a path, it might stay in the box and create sound) failed, but that happens to everyone right?..
...
Right.... guys?
Helooo...
You know what, I was thinking of the same excat thing, thats why I asked if I should of use the stock baskets. I will do as you said, tonight, and I should have no rubbing and better bass response right?
Tnx for the help man, I dont know what I would do without you guys.
Oh and look at the little metal spacers, you cant say it was a bad idea, at the time it looked like a genius Idea to me. I was like
Ho-Ho-Ho I am the man, I solved the rubbing problem
the only problem was my physics (air might not travel if you give it a path, it might stay in the box and create sound) failed, but that happens to everyone right?..
...
Right.... guys?
Helooo...
The kappas should have come with 2 foam 6.5 inch "gaskets" They should go between the door and basket ring. If you could get some more foam from like home depot, and put it also between the ring and the speaker itself, that would be ideal.
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ack!
please use the crossovers. Dave played this down imo.
everything else above has been good for advice... you don't want air leaks, and if you can reuse the stock baskets, definitely do it... there should be some sort of soft rubbery gasket for the backs of the speakers...
but please, please, please use the crossover. without getting into a lot of technical points, a crossover can do a lot more than just re-route frequencies... they can adjust impedences to better blend the power distribution, they will definitely improve upon the crappy oem bass blocker (cap) solution...
just please, please, please go back w/ the crossovers.
i'm a little freaked out about that if you can't tell...
(if you want all the technical reasons and some references as to why - i'll post... but not until you've put them in first...
) i would honestly guess that your distortion problems are as much the lack of crossovers as they are the air gaps...
please use the crossovers. Dave played this down imo.
everything else above has been good for advice... you don't want air leaks, and if you can reuse the stock baskets, definitely do it... there should be some sort of soft rubbery gasket for the backs of the speakers...
but please, please, please use the crossover. without getting into a lot of technical points, a crossover can do a lot more than just re-route frequencies... they can adjust impedences to better blend the power distribution, they will definitely improve upon the crappy oem bass blocker (cap) solution...
just please, please, please go back w/ the crossovers.
i'm a little freaked out about that if you can't tell...
(if you want all the technical reasons and some references as to why - i'll post... but not until you've put them in first...
) i would honestly guess that your distortion problems are as much the lack of crossovers as they are the air gaps...


