LCD gauge - extending the display
Originally Posted by xviper,Jun 25 2005, 02:55 PM
When I first put on those fins, I thought about some ductwork, but if you saw what kinds of streets I drive down in the middle winter, you'd understand why I held off. Any ductwork I install under there can't compromise ground clearance.

I can't imagine where you'd put this duct work if you can't give up any ground clearance.
Thanks for the reply!
Drive Safe,
Steve R.
LCD displays use next to no current, so tiny wires will work fine, and I've always been a fan of PC cables like previously suggested. They're cheap and have lots of wires in a small package. The only concern I'd have is that you might get some noise in the cable, and with LCD's being so high-impedence you may get some flickering of digits, but maybe the shielding in the parallel cable will block most of that.
Hijack Warning . . . Hey X - One note on diff temps. I wonder which is hotter, the diff or the tranny? And in turn, I wonder which end of the drive shaft gets hotter. I recently replaced my drive shaft because it made unbelievable noises with the car jacked up and running in gear. The rear CV grease was cooked, the front was OK. Maybe I'll shoot the 2 CV's with the IR temp gun after my next 200 mile highway run and see.
Hijack Warning . . . Hey X - One note on diff temps. I wonder which is hotter, the diff or the tranny? And in turn, I wonder which end of the drive shaft gets hotter. I recently replaced my drive shaft because it made unbelievable noises with the car jacked up and running in gear. The rear CV grease was cooked, the front was OK. Maybe I'll shoot the 2 CV's with the IR temp gun after my next 200 mile highway run and see.
Originally Posted by modifry,Jun 25 2005, 08:41 PM
Hijack Warning . . . Hey X - One note on diff temps. I wonder which is hotter, the diff or the tranny? And in turn, I wonder which end of the drive shaft gets hotter. I recently replaced my drive shaft because it made unbelievable noises with the car jacked up and running in gear. The rear CV grease was cooked, the front was OK. Maybe I'll shoot the 2 CV's with the IR temp gun after my next 200 mile highway run and see.
As for the temp issue, I've always thought that the tranny would ultimately be hotter since it also gets conducted heat from the engine and radiated heat from the cat and header. I suppose I could use my new multimeter in a temporary set-up to see how the tranny measures up. Might be an interesting experiment. Which part of the casing do you think would give the most indicative reading of the internal temp? (I'm not going to punch a hole in my tranny just to install a temp probe.
)The only thing about changing the topic now is that the information posted here may be of interest to many owners. Being here, it won't get seen. I think if and when we get some valuable discussion going on here, I'll cut and paste the gist of the posts into a new thread in UTH.
any chance that some of the small LCD and temp probes that are used in pc cases would suffice? they are much smaller and would have bezels for mounting them in the door. likely not quie as accurate though.
ideas for this one.
another idea would be to purchase a serial or usb lcd screen of your color choice and look up schematics for a simple temp monitor you could build yourself with ability to drive the display.
if i get the time tonight ill do a little looking for you myself.
ideas for this one.
another idea would be to purchase a serial or usb lcd screen of your color choice and look up schematics for a simple temp monitor you could build yourself with ability to drive the display.
if i get the time tonight ill do a little looking for you myself.
Un-Hijack back to the thermometer display relocation.
You could start over with a new meter like this: (although it does not have a back light)

It can display -20 to + 220C. It's operating range is -10 to +50C so on cold days you'll have to wait for the interior to warm up before you get readings.
It uses a NTC (Negative Temp Coefficient?) sensor that you'll have to buy extra. If you have the specs on the sensor that you have now, post them and I'll check to see if it is compatible with this meter.
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Martel/Web...ata/QM_110T.pdf
It's $34 at Digikey:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dk...US&Cat=34604180
You could start over with a new meter like this: (although it does not have a back light)

It can display -20 to + 220C. It's operating range is -10 to +50C so on cold days you'll have to wait for the interior to warm up before you get readings.
It uses a NTC (Negative Temp Coefficient?) sensor that you'll have to buy extra. If you have the specs on the sensor that you have now, post them and I'll check to see if it is compatible with this meter.
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Martel/Web...ata/QM_110T.pdf
It's $34 at Digikey:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dk...US&Cat=34604180
Originally Posted by smyroad,Feb 28 2006, 08:03 AM

I've since reduced the size of my instrument and display that I can mount it entirely inside the cupholder and still close the door. If I ever want my cupholder back, I'll certainly get one of these. Many thanks.
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