Mounting Amp behind seats
Originally Posted by cvjoint' timestamp='1337035949' post='21698033
Yes sir, but I've since changed them out to the newer bigger better version, the BG Neo10. They sound fabulous. The UL12 is one of the most advanced subs on the market but imo you are going to have a hard time in this application. The low end rolls off sharply and you can never have a big enough box for it, the Q is near 1 from the get go. The parameters seem to be made to resist power instead of making best use of it. Too bad as it's a killer sub on the bench, I think probably the best ever, just no real application where it would work lol.
I had some listening time in a car with 1 of the UL12's mounted in a sealed box with a mmats 3500.1 pushing it and I was impressed at how low and loud it got. I picked this one up in a trade cause the owner blew the tinsel leads (tested good with dmm) which seems to be a common problem when running these with shit loads of power for long periods of time. My 55lb 15" sub just wasn't going to work in this car so it was either one of the low powered jl audio (or something similar) enclosures or grab the UL12 and see what happens.
I saw the UL12 with the busted leads, but if it's a common thing it might have been some other one. I've been interested in them ever since Pat tested one in CarAudio mag. It's basically the Klippel king. You should really boost the bottom by a lot though, it has less low end sensitivity that most 8" subs. There is a reason why it can take so much power the resonant frequency and Q are really high.
I here what your saying about the Q and resonant freq but sometimes what it says on paper can be a bit deceiving. I have been surprised by a few subs in the past because on paper they look pretty basic (jl audio 13W7) once you throw power behind it the specs go out the window.
The trunk is so small in the S that a free air setup may work, but I have never been a fan of the actual sound of that setup. I may have to play with different enclosures and even try a free air and see what I get sound wise. I'll call my buddy up in new York and see when is next trip to Florida, he is the only person that I can work with and bounce different ideas off of
Apogee used a planar as a mid in there high end home speakers to great effect, I wish I still had mine
they are very detailed and accurate but lack the energy that a cone mid has but I guess you can make some of that up with the mid woofer in the door, the hard part is the crossover point.
Why didn't you use another planar for highs?
The TC sounds planar I have are smaller than those bg's and are a lot better above 3k than a lot of tweeters I have heard and don't have that dip at 5k a lot of other planars have. I picked them up with plans to install in my last car but never got around to it
The trunk is so small in the S that a free air setup may work, but I have never been a fan of the actual sound of that setup. I may have to play with different enclosures and even try a free air and see what I get sound wise. I'll call my buddy up in new York and see when is next trip to Florida, he is the only person that I can work with and bounce different ideas off of
Apogee used a planar as a mid in there high end home speakers to great effect, I wish I still had mine
they are very detailed and accurate but lack the energy that a cone mid has but I guess you can make some of that up with the mid woofer in the door, the hard part is the crossover point. Why didn't you use another planar for highs?
The TC sounds planar I have are smaller than those bg's and are a lot better above 3k than a lot of tweeters I have heard and don't have that dip at 5k a lot of other planars have. I picked them up with plans to install in my last car but never got around to it
I here what your saying about the Q and resonant freq but sometimes what it says on paper can be a bit deceiving. I have been surprised by a few subs in the past because on paper they look pretty basic (jl audio 13W7) once you throw power behind it the specs go out the window.
The trunk is so small in the S that a free air setup may work, but I have never been a fan of the actual sound of that setup. I may have to play with different enclosures and even try a free air and see what I get sound wise. I'll call my buddy up in new York and see when is next trip to Florida, he is the only person that I can work with and bounce different ideas off of
Apogee used a planar as a mid in there high end home speakers to great effect, I wish I still had mine
they are very detailed and accurate but lack the energy that a cone mid has but I guess you can make some of that up with the mid woofer in the door, the hard part is the crossover point.
Why didn't you use another planar for highs?
The TC sounds planar I have are smaller than those bg's and are a lot better above 3k than a lot of tweeters I have heard and don't have that dip at 5k a lot of other planars have. I picked them up with plans to install in my last car but never got around to it
The trunk is so small in the S that a free air setup may work, but I have never been a fan of the actual sound of that setup. I may have to play with different enclosures and even try a free air and see what I get sound wise. I'll call my buddy up in new York and see when is next trip to Florida, he is the only person that I can work with and bounce different ideas off of
Apogee used a planar as a mid in there high end home speakers to great effect, I wish I still had mine
they are very detailed and accurate but lack the energy that a cone mid has but I guess you can make some of that up with the mid woofer in the door, the hard part is the crossover point. Why didn't you use another planar for highs?
The TC sounds planar I have are smaller than those bg's and are a lot better above 3k than a lot of tweeters I have heard and don't have that dip at 5k a lot of other planars have. I picked them up with plans to install in my last car but never got around to it
There isn't a single planar on the market that has the dispersion and output of the 3/4" Scan Illuminator. Like you said, dispersion is a big problem up top. There is a 1" AMT tweeter that is decent to 12khz but that's bellow par dispersion and then only 20w power handling compared to 120w IEC on the Scan. I only use new technologies when they beat existing ones.
The planars I have play from 900 to 20khz at 60 watts but cut higher they can hold more, I forgot the name of the guy tested them along side a few other planars and he rated them above the others. The 5k dip and 12k spike in other planars was non existent in these, they played fairly flat from 3k to about 17.5 then started to drop off. I only know of 1 other set out there and tried tracking the owner down but came up empty.
I have to disagree with you on the UL12, I sat in a customers car for about 15-20 minutes playing different kinds of music and was really impressed with the output. His setup had 1 in a sealed box around 1.75 cft and it played hard, tight and very musical. At the time i was running a custom built OZ audio power 15" with a sundown 3k, for the most part it was loud as hell and played pretty damn good, the UL was not nearly as loud but was more musical, bass notes had better detail.
The jl 13w7 on paper looks very good but there are other drivers with similar specs but dont perform nearly as well, once the jl is powered up correctly it is a different ball game, there aren't many car audio drivers that can compare with the brute force and sound quality.
I have to disagree with you on the UL12, I sat in a customers car for about 15-20 minutes playing different kinds of music and was really impressed with the output. His setup had 1 in a sealed box around 1.75 cft and it played hard, tight and very musical. At the time i was running a custom built OZ audio power 15" with a sundown 3k, for the most part it was loud as hell and played pretty damn good, the UL was not nearly as loud but was more musical, bass notes had better detail.
The jl 13w7 on paper looks very good but there are other drivers with similar specs but dont perform nearly as well, once the jl is powered up correctly it is a different ball game, there aren't many car audio drivers that can compare with the brute force and sound quality.
Is the area below the seat good enough to let the amp breathe ? Its a pretty tight fit in terms of height but there is obviously room on the sides of the amp and free airflow from the footwell
Originally Posted by afzan' timestamp='1337052871' post='21698807
I squeezed an Arc Audio KS 125.2 Mini under my passenger seat, it powers my passenger foot well sub
Depending on the size of your amp, there is some room to the left of the spare tire on the shelf the tire mounts to. Thats where one of the 2 optional OEM CD changers mount. ( the other mounts in the center storage box) Pull the trim off that covers the spare and see if its big enough for your amp.











I had mine up there years ago, so to all the nay sayers that say it can't be done... it can but I will warn you, it does make the deck lid heavy